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ekacpuc
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Joined: December 08, 2010
Posts: 472
Location: ketchikan alaska
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 Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:23 pm Post subject: full flow drilling, by hand possible? Or press.. |
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When I drill this sucker out for full flow is it realistic to use a hand drill? Difficult for me to find a drill press to use. Risky? The cause is appart...
Will be using a 9/16" bit.
Greg |
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baked beetle
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Joined: September 23, 2006
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Location: Alberta, Canada
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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Do it with a friend, to help try and keep you straight. If you do it by yourself it WILL go in the opposite of what you want 
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MURZI
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Location: Madisonville, La
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ekacpuc
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Joined: December 08, 2010
Posts: 472
Location: ketchikan alaska
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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| MURZI wrote: | | My preferred "at home method" is to drill a small hole and gradually open it up with bigger bits and then finish with the drum sander part of my dremel. It fits perfect to finish that hole and makes it tidy.... If a big bit grabs.....later case. Nerve racking. |
Good idea. I tend to miss the little things.. Prob over thinking it. I'll use a hand drill with a buddy go one size up at a time.
I've never drilled magnesium, is it softer or harder than aluminium? I've worked with ALOT of mild steel and a little aluminium (too soft for me).
Greg |
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66brm
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Location: Perth Western Australia
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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Softer, go slow, use tapping lube to help
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| modok wrote: | | I am an expert at fitting things in holes, been doing it a long time |
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MURZI
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BugMan114
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Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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i wouldn't use an electric hand drill personally. when you get down into the galley that goes to the pump, the drill wants to catch, and the drill stops and can crack the case. magnesium is very soft, and i always use a hand drill (not electric, the hand crank type drill, like the one below):
only takes about 3 minutes if that, going slowly. its that easy to drill. last time i did it in the car, and used a drill bit and vice grips to turn it, lol. even then it only took 15 minutes. it is better to use a reamer, instead of a drill bot to get the taper for a pipe thread tap to work correctly. but what i do is just cock the dril bit sideways a little when drilling, but around in a circle to create a slight tapered bore. done it several times, with great success. if you've never done it before tho, i'd strongly recommed a tapered reamer. You'd have to find it online somewhere tho.
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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the2ndcashboy
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Joined: March 19, 2007
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Location: Shreveport
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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I've never drilled a VW case, but I drill holes in various kinds of metal for a living (aircraft structures mech) and typically softer material= higher speed and lighter pressure. Harder material= slower speed and heavier pressure. If I was drilling mag I would use high RPM (2500+ until 1/4" or so, then 2000+ up to 1/2") and very light pressure. Just let the drill do the work. If you've got a 1/4 hole and are stepping it up to 3/8, and the bit takes a big bite, it will pull itself right into the hole and into the other side of the oil galley, possibly cracking it in the process. Hence drilling with high speed and low pressure. The drill takes smaller "bites" and can't pull itself into the material.
Edit: All this is assuming you have a good air drill with a spindle that runs true. If you're working with an old wobbly 18v Dewalt, you're on your own.....
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| modok wrote: | | If anything comes out perfect it just means your measuring tools are substandard. |
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BugMan114
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Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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its not a question of the metal, its the galley that intersects it. as you start drilling. look at this pic:
you can see how about 1/2'' down the hole, the wall dissapears, because the gallery for the oil pump outlet is there. once you drill past this point (which you have to or else the tap won't fit), the drill bit starts catching this edge. if you try to go fast, the only thing that will happen is the drill bit will catch, and either snap the drill bit in half, crack the case (there's not a lot of material there, and its easy to crack), or the drill will break your hand as it jerks and twists around. this isn't an issue with a drill press, but with a hand drill, it is.
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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ekacpuc
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Joined: December 08, 2010
Posts: 472
Location: ketchikan alaska
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Hmm... Maybe this isn't worth it to have a filter... I could just change the oil alot.
Thought full flow would be nice for two reasons, 1 for a filter and 2 to put a external oil cooler in the cab during winter time for heat (still use stock cooler too).
Greg |
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ekacpuc
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Location: ketchikan alaska
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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So... Why are you guys using the angled fitting then the barb? Why not just use a barb? My bug is up in my parents' yard so I can't remember if something is in the way.
Greg |
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MURZI
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mxracer
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:16 am Post subject: |
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Don't be afraid of this....
Just be careful when you get down to the galley, don't put pressure on the drill like you are drilling a 1/2 in hole in a bull dozer blade or something and you'll be fine.
I use a cordless drill with the correct sized bit for my fittings, then ream with a pipe reamer and tap the hole...done
Magnesium is similar to aluminum when working with it, it doesn't auto-magically catch on fire, doesn't crack when you look at it, and it won't fall apart if you touch it.  It is a little more prone to crack but again if you use a little common sense and finesse you'll be fine. |
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yamaducci
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:36 am Post subject: |
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It's easy to just use a regular variable speed drill . I have a couple pics in my gallery of tapping the case. Not a ton of detail....
The main thing is to start off with a pilot hole if you are coming in from the side. If youare going straight in then you can go with the final size. Use some kind of cutting oil, motor oil or wd40 and go in a couple threads then back off then a couple more. Clean the threads off the tap if it gets too difficult and test the nipple a couple times until you know when to stop.
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66 Shorty
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:50 am Post subject: |
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HERE'S a good article about full flowing a case, it might help!
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yamaducci
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 7:20 am Post subject: |
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| 66 Shorty wrote: | | HERE'S a good article about full flowing a case, it might help! |
That article is great. Except one thing, After I thought I lost my Snap-On/Bluepoint Dent puller I purchased the one pictured out of desperation.
When I slammed the weight back to pull the plugs, the non-welded handle spread open with my hand between it and the weight. Take a look and you will see what I am saying.
It's a real unsafe design so be careful or weld the loop handle closed.
I found the better dent puller and now can do a case in a few minutes. Good tools pay off and are more safe.
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66 Shorty
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 7:24 am Post subject: |
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I agree that IS a garbage puller! I have a good (OLD) one here to do the job... I was just showing the guy an article I found that seems pretty helpfull! It also helps that I work at a machine shop & have access to the Bridgeports as well as drill presses if neededd... But, I find I can do pretty much anything needed to be done on a Bridgeport that can be done on a drill press.  Plus, the right tools! We have the tappered reamers & correct taps with the proper cutting fluid for Aluminum/magnesium... 
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Dangermouse
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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If you don't have or have access to a slide hammer or dent puller for removing the plugs; here's an alternative...
Centre punch the plug and drill it...
Tap for an M6 bolt...
and thread one into the plug through a washer and socket...
and pull the plug by tightening the bolt against the socket..., out she pops smooth as you please.
Another piece of great advice I got was to use an interrupted tap -
This cuts through magnesium like butter.
and a reamer takes some of the stress of the case and is recommended
I did mine by hand with a variable speed power drill; just go easy with it. But at the larger size bit it will catch, jam and belt you one in the process so while a higher drill speed might be appropriate for softer metal, I'd say take it slow to minimise damage to the case and to yourself...
Feel the fear and do it anyway
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earthquake
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a good place to get a taper reamer for the tap, it makes it eiser to tap a tapered pipe thread and puts less stress on the case.
http://drillsandcutters.com/reamers_tapepipe_spf.aspx
Casey
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kreemoweet
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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I did this by hand, found it impossible to control bit grabbing in case, no matter how slow or light pressure, very nearly ruined
my brand new case! I strongly second the suggestion above to use a hand brace, rather than a powered drill motor. You can
also cut/grind down the nose of your 3/8 tap, otherwise you will have to drill your tap hole deeper than really necessary.
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