jettting/head help

carl73vw · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:45 am Post subject: jettting/head help

I need some help I just put some new carbs on my wifes bus (40 hpmx). I found a post on here to help me jet them so I did that and the main seamed lean so I uped it to 130. I left the idle at 52 seamed to work good and brought the air down to 180, and that still was lean at top end. so I changed the main to 165. It still was not working right so I took it to the shop and had them try to jet them right. They told me I had bad valves and needed a valve job. so I brought the bus back home and did a compression test. They are all about 60 not good considering I just did put new rings and heads on about a year ago. Then I went and bought a leak down tester and found out I do have bad valves the mechanic said it could of been the jetting on the carbs. Can it make the valve go bad over a week? or were the valves already bad? and if it was the jetting any ideas what they should be before I put new valves in? I am hoping the guides are still good.

Any info and imput would be grately appericated.
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73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:33 am Post subject:

Has anyone tried adjusting the valves?
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

udidwht · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:36 am Post subject:

You said you re-ringed it and put new heads on a year ago? Your asking about only a weeks time??? How long has it been jetted initially? If you do need a head job don't worry about trying to get it jetted. Get the compression numbers up or your chasing ghosts.

Jetting:

50 ildes
F11 tubes
200 Airs
28 vents
120 mains

I'm pretty sure the HPMX carbs use the same numbering system as Webers.

carl73vw · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:36 am Post subject:

they are hydrolic but i guess i could check them anyways
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73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

carl73vw · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:38 am Post subject:

the carbs have only been on a week and i did not have any problems before that
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73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

udidwht · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:42 am Post subject:

Be sure and clean the carbs very well before you try and run them. They are not just bolt on and go. Also make sure the float height is set correctly 10-11mm with gasket in place 3-4 lbs fuel pressure.

carl73vw · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:58 am Post subject:

ok i tried to check the lifters and they should be 1 1/2 to 2 turns in right? but when i checked they were just touching maybe the hyrodrolic lifter stuck? when i turned it in with the leak down tester attached it leaked like crazy i left it there for a little bit to see if it would stop and nothing so i backed it back out to just touching.
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73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:02 pm Post subject:

Just how sure are you that you have hydraulic lifters?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

carl73vw · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:34 pm Post subject:

postitive i just pulled the motor apart to check everything going to have a friend that does heads for a living look at them for me later to day

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

the heads dont look very bad to me but thats not saying much i was expecting valves staying open or something like that
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73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:37 pm Post subject:

Well that's rather definitive Razz

So how do the sealing edges of the valves look where they contact the seat? What break in procedure did you use when it went back together last time?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

carl73vw · Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:49 pm Post subject:

i have not pulled the valves yet just the heads need to clean them up a little to see what is going on when i put the heads on originally i had the fuel injection still on it then not to long after that i switched to carbs because the fi kept braking on me so i put on some 34ict ran fine but they where a little small so the wife finally wanted to upgrade and here i am now

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

carl73vw · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:42 pm Post subject:

well today we took the heads apart checked the cylenders and rings everything checks out good so im wondering if the mechanic adjusted the valves to far in and they were holding the valves open heres a pic of the head all cleaned up and back together

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

busdaddy · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:29 pm Post subject:

None of those look really lean and only the lower RH exhaust valve looks sorta normal, did your mechanic do a leakdown test to determine where the compression was going?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

carl73vw · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:01 am Post subject:

at this point i dont know what he actually did i. did not talk to him my wife was dealing with him since he is a dick when i am there he seams to be nicer to the wife. i am going to just put it back to gether and redo the compression and leak down test and see were everthing stands.
_________________
73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

seventyfo · Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:29 am Post subject:

Step 1: Find a new mechanic. I'd fire his ass.
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74 standard Beetle dual 40 IDF "a$$ kickin' mystery engine"
85 Vanagon GL Westy GW 2.2
78 Champagne Westy project

carl73vw · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 2:35 pm Post subject:

well i finally got it back up and running. compression and leak down test are good. i have a leak at the valve cover gasket easy fix. it seams to runs goods at lower rpms but at top end it seams to lean out i think. i put the 180 air back in instead of the 165's. i also broke my distributor when i was puttting everything back to gether, i found a broken plastic washer in it so i took it apart got another washer and the i had one of the springs shoot off and could not find it, so i put in a 009 i had on my baja. any ideas what would be a good replacment dist or if anyone knows where i could get parts for it? i had a vacuum advance on it.
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73 std beetle (daily driver)
78 transporter (wifes)

SGKent · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 2:45 pm Post subject:

as for jetting - unless you are an artist who has been around carb jetting and engines for a very long time I suggest you borrow an air to fuel meter and use that. It is very hard to jet on color based on modern fuels unless you have an engine dyno at hand for many runs.

As for a distributor - any bosch SVDA built for a dual carb 1700 or early 1800 should work.
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Steve aka Merlin the Wrench

formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.

bdamico on GF wrote

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