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DaVonZip
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Joined: February 15, 2007
Posts: 560
Location: Tennessee
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 Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:06 pm Post subject: Best Primer ? |
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I really did read through several dozens of posts on search...BUT...will someone knowledgable please tell me;
i have prepped the bug as much as im going to..and what i am left with is alot of different surfaces, metal, bondo, paint, some of the bare metal areas are large, like the doors, some fenders have a good bit of bondo, and the rest is previous paint which seems good and tight...is there a good primer that i can shoot over all this ? sandable primer...obviously...then after i shoot the primer, sand it, etc...should i put a sealer over it, then paint ?
any help appreciated
RICK
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Mommy, who is that Gorilla in the window?
71 Stand Bug
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Last edited by DaVonZip on Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:32 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Matt K.
Paint and Body Nutcase
Joined: January 14, 2005
Posts: 2597
Location: Hemet, So Cal.
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| Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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An Epoxy primer will work great for what you need especially if you can get one that is DTM or direct to metal....as this will save you from using an Etch primer on the bare metal prior to primer. It is good practice to use an Etch primer on bare metal prior to primer for adhesion purposes.
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*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ . |
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DaVonZip
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Location: Tennessee
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| Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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thanks matt, i will use an epoxy primer...but isnt that kind of primer almost impossible to sand? or am i mistaken.
What steps are next that you would do after epoxy primer..lets me ask that.
Thanks again, RICK
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Mommy, who is that Gorilla in the window?
71 Stand Bug
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Matt K.
Paint and Body Nutcase
Joined: January 14, 2005
Posts: 2597
Location: Hemet, So Cal.
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| Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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Sometimes some primers have a skin on them that make them sand tough at first but you get through it. If this is your first application of primer on this car then i would ;
1-Make sure that all of your body work is finished nice and straight prior to primer as primer is not a cure all for bad bodywork.
2-Once ready and clean apply 3 coats of primer according to the primer manufactures directions and then guide coat the primer with a black spray can.
3; I would let the primer set up a few days or longer to cure up then block sand with 220 grit paper and fix any high or low spots then re-prime with 3 coats of primer.Once that is cured you can wet or dry sand with 500-600 grit paper prior to sealer as long as all the bodywork is straight.....if not you may need to repeat some of the process.
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This is my 21st year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ . |
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DaVonZip
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Location: Tennessee
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| Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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ok, i think i got it bro...thanks for taking the time to talk....have a good weekend sir,,, Rick
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craigman
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Joined: March 28, 2004
Posts: 1811
Location: redding
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| Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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I'm a HUGE fan of Polyester primer. For multiple reasons.
The filling mil thickness is huge:
Doesn't react or "krinkle" previous paint jobs:
Does NOT shrink like catylized primers:
Depending on which brand, can go over bare metals:
Only drawback I've found is, depending on which brand, can be a little tougher to sand. Which for me, is a trade-off i'll take any day of the week, because I know it's a rock solid primer.
Epoxys are good for sure, but just like any other primer it shrinks. And shrinking can show sanding scratches later on. Also as shrinking occures, it can actually dull the finish of you nice shiny new paint job. |
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DaVonZip
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Location: Tennessee
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:07 am Post subject: |
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craig, whats a good polyester primer you would recommend?
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luckystiff
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Joined: September 28, 2005
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Location: hickory,nc
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:46 am Post subject: |
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Southern Polyurethane Inc Epoxy primer. goes over everything you mentioned EXCELLENT and sand good to. one thing most people miss with using epoxy is you need to mix it and then give it a 30min(or more) induction time before spraying it. the SPI epoxy is great and fairly reasonably priced. and if you find you some of you bodywork isn't great you can spread ON TOP of the epoxy no problem.
as far as HIGH BUILDS something like Slick Sand or i've used Upol's Reface a few times recently are good products. i've also used Clausen's Sandy and All-U-Need and USC High build. Slick Sand is probably the easiest to find of all those but i think in my opinion probably sand worse than all the others on the list.
the SPI Epoxy has a pretty high build and can be used straight through from bare metal to ready to spray your topcoat.
I've got some other Upol here i've been using that is DTM and other than having a chem reaction with where i used some metal treat on an area seem like a really good primer also...ken....
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DaVonZip
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Location: Tennessee
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:03 am Post subject: |
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great info Ken..thanks for taking the time..great folks and fellow dubbers...i will check all this out and have alot to go on now...thanks,RICK
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Mommy, who is that Gorilla in the window?
71 Stand Bug
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craigman
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:06 am Post subject: |
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| DaVonZip wrote: | | craig, whats a good polyester primer you would recommend? |
I use either Slick Sand or Feather Fill. Only reason, it's cheap! LOL But it's still a excellent primer. But like I said, it's drawback is that it is harder to sand than other brands.
Just about all the big name manufactures have their own version of a polyester primer. I've used Sherwin Williams a few times and it sands quite a bit easier. But, it's twice the cost. I think the Feather Fill or Slick Sand is around $70 give or take a few bucks.
Like I said I prefer the polyester primers. There are a lot of excellent primers out there, urethane and epoxy. It's just what I choose. There is a 100 different ways to pull a dent, or paint a car, and get the same results in the end. It's all about personal preference.
Good luck with your project!  |
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