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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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 Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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No, somewhat and yes 
Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank?
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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rustbus
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Joined: June 18, 2009
Posts: 1764
Location: alberta
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| Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: | No, somewhat and yes
Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank? |
sweet, thanks busdaddy, i'll try that tomorrow afternoon. so - no additional wiring or anything needed, this thing will work just flawlessly with my gauge?
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May of '72 Deluxe.  2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:46 am Post subject: |
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| rustbus wrote: | | busdaddy wrote: | No, somewhat and yes
Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank? |
sweet, thanks busdaddy, i'll try that tomorrow afternoon. so - no additional wiring or anything needed, this thing will work just flawlessly with my gauge? |
Well the bus that came out of used a different gauge and an external voltage stabilizer (vibrator), you'll have to dig up the sender thread to compare OHM readings at full and empty to see how compatible they are.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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donemoto
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Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 467
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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When changing to an altenator on a 1600 VW engine that has a generator on it; can I use the generator backing tin, or do I need the whole altenator kit with backing tin?
Do I change the fuel pump to the altenator type?
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1975 Campmobile
1962 Bug Convertible
Homebuilt VW Trike
1966 HD Sprint H
1940 HD ULH Flathead
1985 Electra-glide Classic with Tour-Pac
1968 Harley Rapido
2003 VW Passat Turbo
1968 Honda CL Scrambler 175cc
1962 Honda Cub 50 Step-thru
1965 Honda Cub 50 Step-thru Electric Start |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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Depends what you have now, 30A tin is the same as the alternator, 38A tin won't work. The old pump will work but be hard to replace when the alternator is in the way.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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donemoto
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Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 467
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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thanx for the answer, Busdaddy. The motor was a stock dual port 1600, so I'm guessing that is 38 tin?
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1975 Campmobile
1962 Bug Convertible
Homebuilt VW Trike
1966 HD Sprint H
1940 HD ULH Flathead
1985 Electra-glide Classic with Tour-Pac
1968 Harley Rapido
2003 VW Passat Turbo
1968 Honda CL Scrambler 175cc
1962 Honda Cub 50 Step-thru
1965 Honda Cub 50 Step-thru Electric Start |
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RatCamper
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Joined: November 13, 2008
Posts: 3307
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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How useful are the leg warmer vents up front? I've never had a working heater so I don't know. I'm starting ot consider removing the + tube from the front to fit a heater to run the dash vents and demisters. just wondering if I'm going to be missing out on something great or it's not a major thing. There is also a heat source under the back seat which contributes to warming.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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| donemoto wrote: | | thanx for the answer, Busdaddy. The motor was a stock dual port 1600, so I'm guessing that is 38 tin? |
Should be, but alot of stuff gets swapped over many years, if it's dished towards the front it's 38A.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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| RatCamper wrote: | | How useful are the leg warmer vents up front? I've never had a working heater so I don't know. I'm starting ot consider removing the + tube from the front to fit a heater to run the dash vents and demisters. just wondering if I'm going to be missing out on something great or it's not a major thing. There is also a heat source under the back seat which contributes to warming. |
I drive most of the winter with the lever set to full defrost, can't say I miss the floor vents in the front much but I dress appropriately for busdriving on a cool day anyways.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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rustbus
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Joined: June 18, 2009
Posts: 1764
Location: alberta
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| Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="rustbus"] | busdaddy wrote: | No, somewhat and yes
Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank? |
looks like this unit is pooched, no ohm and pretty sure i spy a broken wire on the board travel checked out good tho
thanks busdaddy - are used originals better than aftermarket? wish i could just bolt my early one in
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May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread |
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SixStringMadMan
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Joined: December 02, 2011
Posts: 98
Location: Roseville, CA
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:29 am Post subject: |
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Red goo?, please elaborate  What kind of hose connections? low or high pressure?
Rustbus, read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=380693
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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SixStringMadMan
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Joined: December 02, 2011
Posts: 98
Location: Roseville, CA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:39 am Post subject: |
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Let's say the hoses that come off the Sboot to the engine, and the hoses from the round silver metal device(that is attached to the middle of the upper firewall) to the Sboot, can't remember. Does that make sense?
I'll attach another members engine picture as it has the hoses in question in plain view. This is from the Father Son resto thread
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1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:49 am Post subject: |
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Hmmm.... must have been some sort of glue or sealer. Not necessary if the hoses are in good shape and could damage the AFM in the event of a backfire.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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SixStringMadMan
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Joined: December 02, 2011
Posts: 98
Location: Roseville, CA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:41 am Post subject: |
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Thanks BD. Just found a shot of my engine on my iPhone. Looks like the two connections on the Sboot have the red goo as well as the clear pipe going from the metal doughnut to the top of the engine. The clear pipe, even with red good and a clamp, just slipped right out.
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1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 9:22 am Post subject: |
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PO shenanigans, looks like red silicone RTV gasket maker, good hoses need no sealant or clamps and should be able to pop off in a backfire.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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RatCamper
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Joined: November 13, 2008
Posts: 3307
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy speaks truth. Also may I add that red goo like the red permatex gasket stuff i don't trust at all. Having it dissolve is one thing, but when it's can get sucked into an engine, and contains silica I'm a bit wary of it.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
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flapjakpat
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Joined: August 24, 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:13 am Post subject: |
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| What are the metal things on the sides of the bus called. I have a 71 t2. I want to shine them up. Not sure what the best way to do that is. |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23843
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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| flapjakpat wrote: | | What are the metal things on the sides of the bus called. |
Doors.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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flapjakpat
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Joined: August 24, 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Hahahahhah, no they are slim, chrome, and run all along the sides, I want to polish them, and I want to know what to call them |
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