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Protecting My Nose
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:29 pm    Post subject: Protecting My Nose Reply with quote

Hi All, I recently became the owner of a 1970 VW Van. The nose has a ton of surface rust spots and while I am not planning on a full body repiant in the near future (too many other issues to addresss) I do want this rust to stop now.

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I have treated the rust to covert it into something that will stop the growing cancer. I want to coat the nose to protect it until I am ready for a decent paint job.

My thoughts are to fill/sand it smooth then prime and seal. I do not have a paint booth nor do I really want to make the investment into the necessary tools at this time (compressor, gun etc).

My question is what rattle can products are out there that I can use to get me to where I want to be?

TIA
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craigman
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

About the only thing you can do to slow down rust is sand blast it and put a sealer over it.
Next option is to cut it out and replace it.
That's why they call it cancer. It never stops growing.
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gfw1985
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just going by the color of your rust, whatever you used didn't work to start with. Results you usually get from the rattle can stuff at local parts store. Use phosphoric acid(Ospho, Jasco etc.) and rust will turn black. Sand and apply with a rag and rubber gloves. You need to get to the rust thats still covered under the paint. Then do what you wish.
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gfw1985 wrote:
Just going by the color of your rust, whatever you used didn't work to start with. Results you usually get from the rattle can stuff at local parts store. Use phosphoric acid(Ospho, Jasco etc.) and rust will turn black. Sand and apply with a rag and rubber gloves. You need to get to the rust thats still covered under the paint. Then do what you wish.


Exactly. Don't use a rattle can product - get a brush on product and sand to find the limits of the rust. Another route is rust inhibitors like POR15, Rustbullet and Masterseries CT - these one part systems leave a very hard substrate to paint on top of - they can be helpful if you have very rust pitted surfaces and no intention to weld in new metal.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would use the wire wheel on my drill on all the rust. Sand/Rust-Prep Liquid/filler/primer/paint on the whole nose. You can use rattle cans, but you might have to sand it off if you Ever put a Good paint job on it? If you are happy with your New nose paint, start on a door! You can drive it while you paint it.
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the thoughts.

The nose has been wire brushed and sanded to reveal the edges of the rust. It is surface (i.e. no perforations were found). I have treated the rust and it turned black. I now need a top coat.

My plan is to prime and seal. Proper paint will need to wait for another time.

I am looking for suggested products to prime and seal my nose.
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you simply fixing the rust spots on the nose or are you sanding, priming and sealing the entire nose panel? Do you have access to a spray gun and compressor?

Precursor these statements that the surface is "clean, rust free and properly sanded":

If you are looking for aerosol can products, aerosol stuff from SEM and paint matching acrylic enamal paint from an autobody store (they can put it in aerosol for you) should cost around $70-$100 out the door and last several years...

non match rustoleum auto primer and topcoat from walmart or homedepot will cost about $20 and should last a few years...

If you are spraying epoxy primer, a quart should cost about $40-$60 and it should last a few years uncoated. topcoat it with a quart of color match ($40-$60) and it should last many years
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the thoughtful response.

marklaken wrote:
Are you simply fixing the rust spots on the nose or are you sanding, priming and sealing the entire nose panel?


I am thinking of sanding, priming and sealing the entire nose panel.

Quote:
Do you have access to a spray gun and compressor?


I have a 3 gallon, 5 cfm (90 psi) compressor but no spray gun. I do not think I have enough capacity to run a decent gun. what do you think?

Quote:
Precursor these statements that the surface is "clean, rust free and properly sanded":


Agreed

Quote:
If you are looking for aerosol can products, aerosol stuff from SEM and paint matching acrylic enamal paint from an autobody store (they can put it in aerosol for you) should cost around $70-$100 out the door and last several years...


This is the option I think I will pursue.

Quote:
non match rustoleum auto primer and topcoat from walmart or homedepot will cost about $20 and should last a few years...


My last resort

Quote:
If you are spraying epoxy primer, a quart should cost about $40-$60 and it should last a few years uncoated. topcoat it with a quart of color match ($40-$60) and it should last many years


Maybe too deluxe for me as I will, at some point, get the rest of the bus.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 3M flap wheels will take it ALL to bare metal 1 panel at a time.

Buy a 3/8" Air Drill & a cheap siphon spray gun and you are in business!
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
The 3M flap wheels will take it ALL to bare metal 1 panel at a time.

Buy a 3/8" Air Drill & a cheap siphon spray gun and you are in business!


Thanks for the advice.

For a sprayer, what inexpensive (harbor freight?) gun would you suggest to go with my 3 gallon, 2 hp compressor rated at 2.9 cfm (90 psi) 5.8 cfm (40 psi)?
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is not much air to work with. I am no expert, but I think you will be frustrated trying to spray with any gun, so probably not worth worrying about - look at specs and pick one close to what your compressor "claims"...

I have this hunk of junk - it works about as good as gurgling and spitting paint out of your mouth, but it's cheap and hasn't broken yet after painting all sorts of random stuff with 1 part rustoleum paint (I have plenty of air pressure):

http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-up-air-spray-gun-66871.html
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

marklaken wrote:
That is not much air to work with. I am no expert, but I think you will be frustrated trying to spray with any gun, so probably not worth worrying about - look at specs and pick one close to what your compressor "claims"...

I have this hunk of junk - it works about as good as gurgling and spitting paint out of your mouth, but it's cheap and hasn't broken yet after painting all sorts of random stuff with 1 part rustoleum paint (I have plenty of air pressure):

http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-up-air-spray-gun-66871.html


You are probably correct but I figured it is worth a shot to see if there is something for small jobs.

The big issue for me is that to get a compressor of decent capacity, I will need a 220 outlet but my panel at home is full so I would need a new 220v subpanel and that really raises the cost of any solution.
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, this problem is solved. The Body shop that repaired my windshield frame decided to prime the entire nose at no extra charge. I'll post some pictures later.

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