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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, somewhat and yes Razz

Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank?
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
No, somewhat and yes Razz

Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank?


sweet, thanks busdaddy, i'll try that tomorrow afternoon. so - no additional wiring or anything needed, this thing will work just flawlessly with my gauge?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rustbus wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
No, somewhat and yes Razz

Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank?


sweet, thanks busdaddy, i'll try that tomorrow afternoon. so - no additional wiring or anything needed, this thing will work just flawlessly with my gauge?

Well the bus that came out of used a different gauge and an external voltage stabilizer (vibrator), you'll have to dig up the sender thread to compare OHM readings at full and empty to see how compatible they are.
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donemoto
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When changing to an altenator on a 1600 VW engine that has a generator on it; can I use the generator backing tin, or do I need the whole altenator kit with backing tin?
Do I change the fuel pump to the altenator type?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends what you have now, 30A tin is the same as the alternator, 38A tin won't work. The old pump will work but be hard to replace when the alternator is in the way.
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donemoto
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanx for the answer, Busdaddy. The motor was a stock dual port 1600, so I'm guessing that is 38 tin?
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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How useful are the leg warmer vents up front? I've never had a working heater so I don't know. I'm starting ot consider removing the + tube from the front to fit a heater to run the dash vents and demisters. just wondering if I'm going to be missing out on something great or it's not a major thing. There is also a heat source under the back seat which contributes to warming.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

donemoto wrote:
thanx for the answer, Busdaddy. The motor was a stock dual port 1600, so I'm guessing that is 38 tin?

Should be, but alot of stuff gets swapped over many years, if it's dished towards the front it's 38A.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
How useful are the leg warmer vents up front? I've never had a working heater so I don't know. I'm starting ot consider removing the + tube from the front to fit a heater to run the dash vents and demisters. just wondering if I'm going to be missing out on something great or it's not a major thing. There is also a heat source under the back seat which contributes to warming.

I drive most of the winter with the lever set to full defrost, can't say I miss the floor vents in the front much but I dress appropriately for busdriving on a cool day anyways.
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="rustbus"]
busdaddy wrote:
No, somewhat and yes Razz

Test it with an OHM meter to see if it works, measure the depth of the tank and draw it on a piece of paper with a straight line across and sit the sender on the paper straight with the line, can the arm swing fully from the bottom to top but stop just short of hitting the tank?


looks like this unit is pooched, no ohm and pretty sure i spy a broken wire on the board travel checked out good tho

thanks busdaddy - are used originals better than aftermarket? wish i could just bolt my early one in
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SixStringMadMan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the red goo that people use on hose connections? Is it a good or a bad thing?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red goo?, please elaborate Confused What kind of hose connections? low or high pressure?

Rustbus, read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=380693
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SixStringMadMan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let's say the hoses that come off the Sboot to the engine, and the hoses from the round silver metal device(that is attached to the middle of the upper firewall) to the Sboot, can't remember. Does that make sense?

I'll attach another members engine picture as it has the hoses in question in plain view. This is from the Father Son resto thread



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm.... must have been some sort of glue or sealer. Not necessary if the hoses are in good shape and could damage the AFM in the event of a backfire.
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SixStringMadMan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks BD. Just found a shot of my engine on my iPhone. Looks like the two connections on the Sboot have the red goo as well as the clear pipe going from the metal doughnut to the top of the engine. The clear pipe, even with red good and a clamp, just slipped right out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PO shenanigans, looks like red silicone RTV gasket maker, good hoses need no sealant or clamps and should be able to pop off in a backfire.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy speaks truth. Also may I add that red goo like the red permatex gasket stuff i don't trust at all. Having it dissolve is one thing, but when it's can get sucked into an engine, and contains silica I'm a bit wary of it.
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flapjakpat
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are the metal things on the sides of the bus called. I have a 71 t2. I want to shine them up. Not sure what the best way to do that is.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flapjakpat wrote:
What are the metal things on the sides of the bus called.

Doors.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hahahahhah, no they are slim, chrome, and run all along the sides, I want to polish them, and I want to know what to call them
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