KG 1974

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

hello guys im Fred im Belgian

i bought myself a karmann about a month ago i looked for a low budget project that i can transform into a daily driver Smile

(in the future it will undergo a total make over but for now i wanna drive it Smile

)

pictures say more then words Wink

when i bought the car it looked like this
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how the car looks today
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needs some welding
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and allso some welding around the back wheels (i will post em asap)

i allso made sure that the brakes lights and hand brake are working good to use when driving daily

some questions, yesterday all the sudden while driving around at home my generator charging control light keeps lighting up :s and the 1st fuse on the right side snapped :s

what could be the prob ? thxx

NOVA Airhead · Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:20 pm Post subject:

It looks like you have a good start for your project!

Did the car have a bra on it? It seems to have fading in reverse from a bra or something covering the front.

It sounds like you have a short in that #1 fuse circuit. I would start by tracing and finding the short.

The Gen light coming on could be something as simple as a loose belt or it could be related to the short.
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1971 Ghia Convertible Autostick
1974 Thing

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

i had to repaint the nose but that needs some more attention Wink

does someone know how to connect the fuel meter correctly ?

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how i think it needs to be installed Embarassed

cable from the fuel gauge sending unit on the right side of the red wire the minus on the 31 and the plus below the fuel gauge wire.

can someone enlighten me ? thx

donmurray · Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:31 pm Post subject:

My short red wire from the voltage regulator (called a vibrator) is connected to the gauge spade on the other/right side of the regulator hold down screw. Gauge connector to the left of the hold down screw goes to the tank sender. I think someone said you could run the gauge wired either way, as it just reflects current flow as controlled by the tank sending unit.

Male spade connector sticking out to the right on the regulator is connected to a wire (black I believe) that's daisy chained to a couple of indicator lights on the clock unit. Top male spades at 11 & 1 o'clock. I think this is the wire that goes hot when the ignition is on. Current flows through the regulator, which produces a constant voltage to the gauge which see's variable current flow depending on the variable resister function of the tank sending unit.

This is from memory after repairing my gauge recently. Problem was a loose connector rivited to the regulator, and a couple of other poor connections, including a daisy chain ground wire that looked OK, but had some resistance on a meter check.
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74 Ghia, with 2110 engine

pitbug · Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:18 am Post subject:

Nice...

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57' SC "Hoss" 1776cc (his)
62' Ragtop 1776cc (Wife's-"Candy")(hers)
71' Bus 1776cc "Sunshine" (ours, that's what she thinks!)

gregmporter · Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:38 am Post subject:

Do you have wide whites on one side and not the other or are those porta walls?

Also, is that a beetle bumper? I'm looking forward to watching your progress.
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I have a samba build thread that is a digest
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=371878

I also have a blog that cronicles my restoration in detail.
http://www.1974kg.blogspot.com

You Tube Channel w/vids of the car's progress
http://www.youtube.com/user/gregmporter

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

what i did today

i cut out some crusty parts in the back and did some welding (im new in the welding and stuff, Wink

just saying)
i will allso renew the inner crusty plate.
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made some parts
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welding (not high quality welding)
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this is from the previous owner, i looked for a "new" piece but cant get that part annymore, i think remove the whole "welded part" will be a whole lot of work. guessing to leave it how it is and renew it in the future.

plans for the next days will be remove the front and rear window (tips to do that) do the welding around the wheels and little spots on the doors.

im a little scared with the windows dont wanna break em Embarassed

someone on here who did that and has some tips.

thx and Happy Easter Wink

wbrown45 · Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:48 pm Post subject:

No apologies needed for the welding. You look to have good penetration which should make a very strong joint.
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OK Thang

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

before

and after

other small part welded
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i allso had some small holes on my doors besides the windows that i filled.

tomorrow the other side (similar part)

Rob Timmons · Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:30 pm Post subject:

Looks good, Just a note on the welding. It looks like you have not welded the seams completely. You got the right idea to tack them to keep heat down but you should jump around and make sure you have all of the seam welded. Some times even after you grind it down you will seee where you didn't weld and this should be hit as well. The more chance of keeping water out from behind the filler and paint the better off you will be. It wont crack as easy as well.

wbrown45 · Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:54 pm Post subject:

Rob Timmons · Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:19 pm Post subject:

Like I said

"You got the right idea to tack them to keep heat down but you should jump around "

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

ok ill do that Smile

thxx for the tips !!

donmurray · Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:56 pm Post subject:

If you can clamp or press a piece of copper behind the joint, it reduces the tendency for thin metal to burn through. A flattened piece of copper pipe will work. Stitch technique may also help. A 1 second shot just like a spot weld, let that spot cool to where the red is almost gone (about 1 second), then hit it again right against the last spot. Do this for about 1/2 to 3/4", then go somewhere else to let that area cool down. An air hose will help it cool faster.
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74 Ghia, with 2110 engine

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

i finished the other side, im not fully satisfied with the end result but could do anny better with the ability's that i have at home.

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Basketcase · Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:17 pm Post subject:

lokig good!

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

Basketcase · Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:57 pm Post subject:

aren't we all nuts? why else would we mes with 40+ year old cars!

popoule · Samba Member Joined: December 01, 2010 Posts: 109

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