Wheel Adaptors

Glassy Guy · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:17 am Post subject: Wheel Adaptors

Hi everyone. I hope you all are having a great holiday season. I have searched the this topic and just have a question. If I were to run adaptors from Wide 5 to Chevy 4 3/4" would you run the older aluminum or the new steel ones? I just love the American Racing Torque Thrust D rims. My second choice would be the new Wide 5 that are being sold by DBP and my third choice would be the Wide 5 Star rims in chrome or black. Thanks for all the thoughts and help.

Dale M. · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:15 am Post subject:

The issue on not the wheel, but the quality of the adapter. The adapters have been known to cause problems like cracking. Best solution would be to get replacement drums drilled for chevy pattern if possible. IF not possible just inspect adapter occasionally for potential cracking. If you can find wheel you like in wide five it would eliminate adapter and the would eliminate adapter issues...

But go with wheel you like best, if it requires adapters just be aware...

Dale
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BL3Manx · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:16 am Post subject:

If you are going to use adapters I'd use the steel ones. Another option is to buy new drums which are drilled for the Chevy pattern. SoCal Imports has the rears on their website. I'd call and ask about the front. I'd also get the pressed in studs.

http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/brake-drum-bugghia-rear-lug-chevyford-5x4-5x4-p-13058

Dale M. · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:20 am Post subject:

Yep... Pressed in studs always win over "lug bolts"....

Dale
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

Lo Cash John · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:13 am Post subject:

This has me thinking about my own build on a 58 pan. Here are a few thinking points:

1) Link Pin 5 x 205 drums cannot be drilled to any other useful pattern due to their shape and design.
2) Ball Joint 4 x 130 drums can be drilled to a number of patterns or you can buy aftermarket Ball Joint drums with the pattern you want.
3) Appletree Automotive sells "conversion bearings" that allow Ball Joint rotors to be installed on Link Pin spindles.
4) Ball Joint rotors and drums (I think) use the same bearings.

Couldn't I get the conversion bearings, and install late model drums onto my Link Pin spindle? Then I only have to attach the late model backing plate or build a hybrid of the two. Am I missing something here?
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Glassy Guy · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:51 pm Post subject:

Thank you everyone for the replies. I do know about SoCal offering the Chevy bolt pattern. They are not far from me. One factor is the drums I have are in such good shape I thought I would use them. Always trying to save some cash. Lol. Maybe adaptors until the drums wear out. I do plan on driving it everyday. If I were to get 15x8 rims for the rear say with a 235 60 15 tire and 15x6 rims for the front with a 205 60 15 do you guys think the tires would stick out beyond the fenders with adaptors. I should mention that I have a Manx copy that is almost identical to a real Manx.

JiI · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 4:40 pm Post subject:

I'm running 235/60/15 on 7" in the rear and they look great. Running 165/ 70/15 in the front.
Jeff

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 7:37 pm Post subject:

I have found over the years that the cast aluminum adapters are more true running than the steel adapters. I have also found that the steel adapters are stronger than the cast aluminum adapters.

A buddy told me recently that he will run the steel adapters only on the front because it was more important to retain the wheel on the steering end of his buggy.
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BL3Manx · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:18 pm Post subject:

Conventional wisdom has changed regarding blowouts I'm not sure if its fully applicable to wheel loss but rear blowouts are now viewed as more dangerous than front. Most tire shops now put a new pair of tires in back. The rationale is that if you loose a front tire you still have some steering ability. If you loose a rear tire and the rear end starts to go sideways, you got zip.

http://www.cartalk.com/content/rear-tire-blowouts-v-front-tire-blowouts

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:28 pm Post subject:

BL3Manx · Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:34 am Post subject:

With its aft c.g., tendency to oversteer at speed and also the swingaxle's tendency to "tuck under", I'd tend to believe most AC VW rollover sequences have started in the rear end.

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 1:35 pm Post subject:

Back on the wheel adapter subject, I like to spot weld the back of a steel stud to the adapter. It helps keep the stud from working loose and preventing the wheel from being removed without cursing.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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56 manx · Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:53 pm Post subject:

lostinbaja · Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:38 pm Post subject:

I have put many miles on and off road in VW's with wheel adapters. I have never had an issue. I did however have to remove a set of adapters (steel) from a friend's buggy because the studs were spinning in the adapter.
I was able to get the adapter to drum nuts loose by using a crows foot wrench thru an opening in the wheel. I had to cut the adapter off the wheel with a torch. Here is the outcome:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I like the idea of tacking the studs to the adapter Wink

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Ruffturn · Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:30 am Post subject:

Back to the OP, I'm looking for a new set of adapters from 4 lug ('72 super) to 4 1/2" Ford. Not having too much luck. Any ideas?

I've got some, but the dude that built the car put ones with 1/2" studs on the front & 7/16" studs on the rear. I'd like to get a new set with 1/2" studs and a 5 x 4 1/2" pattern. Even a pair like that would probably do me.

Any ideas?

Some day, when I've got some spare bucks not designated for another project, I'll get some 4 - lug rims. I dont see that for a while though.
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JiI · Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:33 am Post subject:

I just went to So Cal Imports and got the disk conversion with the Ford 1/2" studs pressed in. Good stuff!!!
Jeff

Ruffturn · Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:14 pm Post subject:

What was their item #? All I see is the chevy adapters???
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JiI · Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:48 pm Post subject:

http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/dis...x4-p-13600

Ruffturn · Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:25 am Post subject:

Oops, I didn't realize you said you bought the disc kit. Laughing

Doesn't matter now anyway. I just walked out there and measured the rear wheels. For some silly reason, I figured the front and rear would be the same. Turns out the turd that built the car put 4½" (Ford) on the front and 4¾" (Chevy) on the rear. I have had this car for almost two years and just found out I've got two different size wheels. Dammit. Evil or Very Mad

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Dan the workingstiff · Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 2:08 am Post subject:

I just about lost a wheel going down the freeway! All i had left was one lug! Due to an adapter. Back in the day, I made sure every nut and bolt were " buggy tight". What happened as I checked the other adapters, was that where the adapters mounted to the wide five the holes started to wear. The lug bolts weren't seating completely. Won't run 'em....

Lo cash, I had a rail just running drum faces like that on the front axel.
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