| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ordered window seals this week, and some POR-15. Also ordered jugs and pistons. Taking the case in next week. Anyone wanna recomend an oil pump?
Also thinking about cleaning the gas tank out. I pulled the tank when I took out the MC (the tank has been dry for ages), and it seems that I am missing the gasket/seal between the port on the tank and the nut that holds the line to the take. Anyone know if I need a new one? ISP is out of stock, and I cant seem to find any info on it. Also cleaning the tank? I heard muratic acid or vinegar then rince with water? We have a pool so I have access to plenty of acid, but dont know if its a good idea. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bobnotch Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 10698 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| SamSmith wrote: |
Ordered window seals this week, and some POR-15. Also ordered jugs and pistons. Taking the case in next week. Anyone wanna recomend an oil pump?
Also thinking about cleaning the gas tank out. I pulled the tank when I took out the MC (the tank has been dry for ages), and it seems that I am missing the gasket/seal between the port on the tank and the nut that holds the line to the take. Anyone know if I need a new one? ISP is out of stock, and I cant seem to find any info on it. Also cleaning the tank? I heard muratic acid or vinegar then rince with water? We have a pool so I have access to plenty of acid, but dont know if its a good idea. |
Try Wolfsburg West for the tank drain stuff. Ray recommends cleaning a tank that way (as you described), and so does VW. VW actually recommends sloshing the tank afterward with soluable oil (cutting tool fluid) to keep it from rusting (it's in the Blue Bentley, in the fuel section). _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| I might be able to get ahold of some machining coolant, like you use when tapping and cutting threads on a lathe? Aka bug juice? I also cross train in machining at my vocational school, and we spray that stuff on in certain opperations. Or are you talking about something else bob? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bobnotch Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 10698 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Been busy with school, but the seals came in. Been working on the pop outs a bit, six of the eight screws came out fine, two had to be drilled.
Still waiting on Mike the machinist, and my 90.5 p&c set.
Ordered tires also! Anyone know about putting a deep sump on a lowered square? it had about 4" of clearance before I took the motor out, but with the smaller tires in front I might have more clearance because of the lever action. Anyone have experience? No need for deep sump?
Any idea about the crank bearing a few posts back? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
supaninja Samba Member

Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 3993 Location: houston
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Nick are you talking about the sump or the whole car? really though is the frown about me lowering my car or about the fact that I can't run a deep sump?
Also I can always jack it up a click if its too low, I'm not set on slammed.
Forgot i picked up these gems, still looking for an "S". (sorry computers down so I'm on my phone and it won't format the img properly) http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=915527 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bobnotch Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 10698 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
| SamSmith wrote: |
Nick are you talking about the sump or the whole car? really though is the frown about me lowering my car or about the fact that I can't run a deep sump? |
About running a sump and being lowered. My dad knocked the sump off his stock height Square a few years ago. They were doing some repaving in the area where he winters, and caught a manhole cover. It dumped 3.5 qts of oil in 10 seconds. His was a Berg 1 qt thin line sump. Just something to keep in mind.  _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
Sounds to me like more of a threat than a benifit... thanks for the advise bob
By the way, I certified in welding this week, part of the reason I've been busy. After graduation, I will be AWS certified to butt weld up to 7/8" the 3g position. That's welding in the keyhole no backing plate.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ok, tires came in, my buddy works at discount tires and said he will mount and balance them for me, but I am going to paint my wheels first, theyre stock slotted 4 lug t3 wheels. Any suggestions on color? Im thinking just a few coats of white rustoleum from a can
Sent my MC off to Mr Adney.
Still waiting on oil pump and jugs in the mail. Going down to CE to see Mike again tomorrow about the machine work, should be ready to put the motor together by late next week assuming everything goes according to plan
Small victory, in an effort to rid my car of a little bit of rust, I finally managed to get the passenger side door off! All it took a drill and a not-so-easy-out, plus few hours of cussing.
Question: my old doors have seized bottom hinges, and my replacements are 65or66(not sure) with the two screw pattern. The questions is can I cut the third hole (the portion that sticks out) from the rusty door hinges to the portion where they would be on the two hole hinges essentially "adding" a hole without pulling pins or swapping plates, or is it a better idea to rebuild the non rusty, replacement hinges using the old three hole plates? All the trim holes on the doors line up including handles and locks, the only difference is the 3 vs 2 hole hinge plates. (pics of everything in the morning when its light out)
thanks friends |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ataraxia  Samba Member

Joined: March 19, 2010 Posts: 1479 Location: Chicago, IL
|
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 5:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
| SamSmith wrote: |
...theyre stock slotted 4 lug t3 wheels. Any suggestions on color?
Question: my old doors have seized bottom hinges, and my replacements are 65or66(not sure) with the two screw pattern. The questions is can I cut the third hole (the portion that sticks out) from the rusty door hinges to the portion where they would be on the two hole hinges essentially "adding" a hole without pulling pins or swapping plates, or is it a better idea to rebuild the non rusty, replacement hinges using the old three hole plates? All the trim holes on the doors line up including handles and locks, the only difference is the 3 vs 2 hole hinge plates.
thanks friends |
1. They're 'stock' for a later car (66 and later). 65 and earlier are 5x205.
2. The answer to your question about color depends on you and your plans for the car...you'll likely get as many answers as there are opinions about politics and baby names.
3. If the bottom hinge is seized, you should be able to fix that relatively easily without hacking it up-hinges are simple: one pin holding the two halves together. Remove/replace the pin and all is well. There are NOS hinges in the classifieds (or there were a week ago). I'm not a fan of hacking things to work when the correct fix is readily available. 65 doors are also 3 bolt, btw. _________________ http://restoringferris.blogspot.com/
'Knowledge is realizing that the street is one-way, wisdom is looking both directions anyway.' |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
Well the hinges on my replacemnt doors are two hole so they must be frm a later car.. The only reason I asked was because I assumed rebuilding the hinges was hard. I could just rebuild the stock seized hinges but the doors are really rusty and would take to much to put straight.
Also I know 4 lug is inccorrect you don't have to remnd me I'm not the one who did the swap, and I don't have the resources to put it back to 5 lug right now, and its not exaclty top priority even if I did have the resources. I just ment that the wheels aren't aftermarket. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Mike Fisher Samba Member

Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 12526 Location: Eugene, OR
|
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
Use your good 2 bolt door skins on your 3 bolt door shells?
These OG wheels are ivory/pearl/toga white? not Bright White! Any 2 tone combination you can dream up is acceptable.
 _________________ http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,71,71,71 AT,72,72 AT Parts
56 & 57 oval ragtop $2,500 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
Mike- what if I want bright white?
Also what's a door skin? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Mike Fisher Samba Member

Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 12526 Location: Eugene, OR
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ataraxia  Samba Member

Joined: March 19, 2010 Posts: 1479 Location: Chicago, IL
|
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
| SamSmith wrote: |
Well the hinges on my replacemnt doors are two hole so they must be frm a later car.. The only reason I asked was because I assumed rebuilding the hinges was hard. I could just rebuild the stock seized hinges but the doors are really rusty and would take to much to put straight.
Also I know 4 lug is inccorrect you don't have to remnd me I'm not the one who did the swap, and I don't have the resources to put it back to 5 lug right now, and its not exaclty top priority even if I did have the resources. I just ment that the wheels aren't aftermarket. |
You're in one the states that seems to have a LOT of people selling T3 parts-you should be able to find nice doors that are still 3 bolt.
One thing you have to have with a T3: Patience. That applies to working on the car, finding parts and figuring things out. There were days, 20 years ago, when I wanted to set my then car on fire and be done with T3s because I didn't have the patience to work on it, find an unobtanium part or figure out how something works when the book doesn't provide enough information or you didn't have the right tool.
People now have the internet, international sellers with far greater resources for parts and online forums and manuals to help solve problems. You've got great tools at your disposal, just remember that none of it will replace patience. Similar to the ignition thing discussed earlier.
Don't worry about the wheels...I didn't want you to think they were 64 original 4 lug wheels. _________________ http://restoringferris.blogspot.com/
'Knowledge is realizing that the street is one-way, wisdom is looking both directions anyway.' |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
Trust me I'm definately learning patience being on this budget and being so busy, not to mention the scarcity of parts. since I only work a few hours a week, since I'm in school, have to save up for ever little thing. I'm glad I finally had enough cash to do the engine right, but its like the saying goes, you either have time or money, and unless your retired you can't have both. Right now I have very little of either, so I'm learning that ever important virtue of patience.
Thanks for the advice, I love having mentors.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Opened up my box of pistons and cylinders today right before I was about to take them to Mike at CE to be balanced, and one had a cracked fin!!
I was so sad/mad. I bought them from Texas Air-cooled, and they are AA brand 90.5. I think I am going to contact Texas aircooled first. Anyone had something like this happen? I need all the cooling I can get here in az, and I HATE chasing shit like this down, just another road block among the many.
Today at Competition engineering mike told me that the cam bearings were one oversized. He had part of a set, and some of mine were still ok, so between us we will have a whole set. He also got the line bore done on the mains and I paid my deposite when I went in today, so he will get to work on the heads/polishing/balancing tomorrow.
Also Jim Adney contacted me, so far he has been great with feedback, dispite my horrible packaging and lack of any info at all with the shipment. sorry Jim He says he will be able to rebuild my MC, that my bore was good.
Anyways I had a little time and got one of the popouts all finished. Used the tow strap technique, worked great. Still need to drill and tap the other frame and figure out how to get them onto the car, the seals seem to get in the way of the hook things on frame and I couldn't manage to get them squeezed into the slots on the b pillar
Making progress, though it doesnt seem like it.
Thanks friends |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bobnotch Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 10698 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
| SamSmith wrote: |
Opened up my box of pistons and cylinders today right before I was about to take them to Mike at CE to be balanced, and one had a cracked fin!!
I was so sad/mad. I bought them from Texas Air-cooled, and they are AA brand 90.5. I think I am going to contact Texas aircooled first. Anyone had something like this happen? I need all the cooling I can get here in az, and I HATE chasing shit like this down, just another road block among the many.
Today at Competition engineering mike told me that the cam bearings were one oversized. He had part of a set, and some of mine were still ok, so between us we will have a whole set. He also got the line bore done on the mains and I paid my deposite when I went in today, so he will get to work on the heads/polishing/balancing tomorrow.
Also Jim Adney contacted me, so far he has been great with feedback, dispite my horrible packaging and lack of any info at all with the shipment. sorry Jim He says he will be able to rebuild my MC, that my bore was good.
Anyways I had a little time and got one of the popouts all finished. Used the tow strap technique, worked great. Still need to drill and tap the other frame and figure out how to get them onto the car, the seals seem to get in the way of the hook things on frame and I couldn't manage to get them squeezed into the slots on the b pillar
Making progress, though it doesnt seem like it.
Thanks friends |
Thom had that issue about 2 weeks ago. He bought some P&Cs, and some other stuff, and the guy packed it all into the same box. Broke the piston rings and some stuff inside the box too. He wasn't very happy to say the least.
Try using some 2 inch maskinging tape, to hold the front of the seal back (fold the seal toward the glass, and tape it in place). This should allow you to get the hooks for the pop outs in place. Once they're in, pull the tape off. Side note: I've ran the tape both up and down, and sideways. Either way will work. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SamSmith Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2011 Posts: 323 Location: Tempe, AZ
|
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
thanks for getting back to me bob, you're always give good about that, with good advise. I was going to try with some tape but it was getting dark and I wanted to work on cleaning up the garage in prep for the build, so I put the windows aside.
The packaging was as good at is could have been, I guess and the pistons were already ringed, so the rings were safe, but I think UPS got rough with things.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|