Best bang for the buck engine mods?

[Frankysfree]

[[email protected]]

the most fun/$ is sway bars, steering wheel and shifter, and a disc brake kit up front.
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[spencerfvee]

finely some who thinks like me. why have a air cooled vw 1967 bug and put a subaru motor in it . i know some guys that did the subaru swap. they cut the frount of there bugs . they cut the back of there bugs up. just to fit a subaru motor in . so they go to the same vw car shows i go to and they cry about being turned away for the show because they have a subaru motor in there bug . so they end up going to a all vw drag race show and cry again when they cant race . other air cooled vws and there turned away again . i will have to say some vw car shows do have a class for none air cooled vws . this is my thinking i if i had a super nice 1967 bug i would never put a subaru motor in it. it would cut the value of the 1967 bug in half . my thinking is you can get more money for a air cooled bug . than one thats been cut up for a subaru motor . dont get me wrong there is a place for guys that want subaru motor in there vw bug . if thats what you want. more power to you lol its just not my thing just my two cents spencerfvee...............................

[Frankysfree]

[Frankysfree]

[Frankysfree]

I really do appreciate all the help everyone. I will be reading up alot more on everything in the next couple days so i can make an informed decision.

As ive stated in an earlier thread, i really need to rebuild the engine as it runs bad and smokes some so leaving it alone isnt an option since i want it to run good and i dont want to look like a dirt bike going down the road(smoke pouring out of the exhaust).

I will be pulling the engine apart before i actually order any parts since i dont know the condition of the crank, cases, or heads and if any of those parts need attention it will influence where i spend my money.

[tattooed_pariah]

[spanky324]

[75smith]

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-performance/
repost of earlier link

the 1800CC and the bolt on articles seem to be the best for you, I would expect to spend close to $1,000 or more on any good rebuild- over your 600 budget you set at the beginning, but would be money well spent.

and good for you keeping the flat-four-only swaps I would do is a type IV or a TDI Diesel(bus)

[mark tucker]

Ive had the rear disc on mine for somany years I cant remember. got the fronts too but to lazy to put the new beam&them on.

[tattooed_pariah]

[andk5591]

[Frankysfree]

[Frankysfree]

Ok. After some thought and pulling the engine on sunday, i think ill just push my budget up quite a bit. Im thinking big stroker motor. What do you guys recommend as far as size for a Texas car(100+ degree days all summer) and still be able to keep it cool. I was thinking why not go the over 2000cc route but ive been told it will fry an engine that big in an enclosed compartment(non dune/baja buggy config). Is that true if i do an aftermarket oil cooler with fan? I dont want to get REALLY crazy but i would like a streetable engine that has good power. I know the 1776 is a proven combo but im going to buy new heads, cylinders, crank, etc anyway so why not go bigger??

I did read the articles in the first reply and me and my brother actually pulled the engine in his ghia on sunday and are leaning towards the mileage motor they talk about. He is not as concerned with HP as mpg and i hear the ghias get better mileage anyway because of the sleek body design. I also bought and have been reading "how to hotrod your vw engine" and "how to rebuild your aircooled volkswagen engine"

Thoughts?
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1967 Bug
1969 Bug
2005 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-RR

"You can't know where your going until you know where you've been"

[DarthWeber]

On your brother's Ghia, while it's true the KG is much more aerodynamic than the Beetle it also comes with a bit of a weight penalty. On the highway it would get better fuel mileage but in stop and go the engine has to accelerate the extra weight - maybe an extra hundred pounds or so.

For your engine and location I'd think a 2110 or 2180 would be good. 82mm crank makes assembly easier, 90.5mm or thick wall 92mm P/C are dead nuts reliable. An engine like that with some good 40 x 35.5mm heads (Tims Stage 1 or DRD L5 ), Dellorto 40DRLA's or Weber 44IDF's, 1 1/2" exhaust. Cam, something like an Engle W120 or FK-8, something in the 250 - 260 @ 0.050" duration will be a nice combo.

Thing to remember is this motor will breathe a lot more air than a stocker. This is often where the cooling problems come in. The carbs rob air from the cooling fan/oil cooler. You must get more air into the engine compartment, there are a few different ways to do this. For maximum reliability and peace of mind an external oil cooler is a good idea for those extra hot days. Just don't use it as a crutch. Make sure your engine is built with care, good parts, reasonable CR, and has a good tune - especially carb jetting - take the time to set the carbs up right, and your motor should run strong and cool.
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[Frankysfree]

Thanks for the reply. Good info to know about the ghia.

As far as building a 2110 or 2180, i have dual Weber 40 IDF's on there right now. Will they be sufficient for an engine that big? I see you mentioned Dellorto 40 DLRA's or Weber 44 IDF's. Seeing as how i got these carbs came with the bug when i bought it and the high price (over $1000) of bigger carbs i dont really want to waste part of my budget on new carbs.

What do you think the HP will be on the 2110 or 2180? Any dyno graphs to show on these combos?
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1967 Bug
1969 Bug
2005 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-RR

"You can't know where your going until you know where you've been"

[ALB]

The interior of British Columbia can get very hot (over 100' F) and my experience has been that it can be done. As Darth said, making sure enough air is able to enter the engine compartment to feed the monster is essential. Without air intake, it doesn't matter how big the cooler is; the heads will cook and the thing will die prematurely. Bob Hoover's case, lifter and rocker arm mods http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.ca/2007/05/hvx-mods.html will keep the lifters and top end lubricated properly, which will remove heat and result in longer life. Ray Vallero's trick of drilling a .015 or .020" hole in each pushrod just before the end will add an oil mist to the rocker chambers, cooling the springs for longer life as well. Porsche oil squirters aimed at the backsides of the pistons will remove heat. People have also had excellent results with thermal barrier coatings on the piston tops, valve faces and combustion chambers.

Check out Gerico's 2276- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265227&highlight=
158 hp and a huge torque curve with 40mm carbs.
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On a lifelong mission to prove (much to my wife's dismay) that Immaturity is Forever!!

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[DarthWeber]

If you want to keep your 40IDF's that fine. Just dial the engine specs back a little. Go with something like a 90.5 x 78.4, 2017cc with an Engle W110 (or similar) cam. You'll still be near the upper range of what the 40IDF can handle as far as top end HP but the day to day drivability in city/highway will be fine.
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[Frankysfree]

That is a very interesting article regarding the oiling system. Its really surprising the engines last as long as they do compared to the antiquated system. Ill definately do those mods to mine and my brothers engine.
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1967 Bug
1969 Bug
2005 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6-RR

"You can't know where your going until you know where you've been"

[DarthWeber]

A stock engine at 50 HP or less is under considerably less stress than what we build nowadays.
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