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My 63' Beryl Green Rag (TONS of pics)
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Tinsnips
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy crap. I salute you.
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hoss
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pimp. See you next weekend dude.
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Johnnylongtime
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulations on your sweet Bug. All the hard work has paid off for sure, please post up some more pics for those who will not get to see it at Kelly Park.
Top job..

Johnny
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fuscavw
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work! If you don't mind, could you share a bit the technique/tools you used to peel back the drip rail? I need to do a roof clip/skin in a double cab and I'm considering this. Thanks!
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuscavw wrote:
Very nice work! If you don't mind, could you share a bit the technique/tools you used to peel back the drip rail? I need to do a roof clip/skin in a double cab and I'm considering this. Thanks!


Basically, you cut the existing roof about an inch or so away from where the drip rail joint is. We used a curved chisel to get under it, once you start to get under it, it's easy because you just keep going. When you pull the drip rail away, don't bend it more than 90 degrees, and you won't need to to pull what's left of the roof out. Also the bentley mentions using heat, which is what I wish we did because even though we tried to not bend more than 90 degrees we did get a few splits in the metal, which is what we were trying to avoid. Even if you do get a few splits, you can repair them after you put the new roof on. Once the drip rail was peeled back we popped off the spot welds around the front windshield and rear window. I think a Double Cab roof would be a lot easier, because there's no windows to worry about.
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Offy 220
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Paterson wrote:
fuscavw wrote:
Very nice work! If you don't mind, could you share a bit the technique/tools you used to peel back the drip rail? I need to do a roof clip/skin in a double cab and I'm considering this. Thanks!


Basically, you cut the existing roof about an inch or so away from where the drip rail joint is. We used a curved chisel to get under it, once you start to get under it, it's easy because you just keep going. When you pull the drip rail away, don't bend it more than 90 degrees, and you won't need to to pull what's left of the roof out. Also the bentley mentions using heat, which is what I wish we did because even though we tried to not bend more than 90 degrees we did get a few splits in the metal, which is what we were trying to avoid. Even if you do get a few splits, you can repair them after you put the new roof on. Once the drip rail was peeled back we popped off the spot welds around the front windshield and rear window. I think a Double Cab roof would be a lot easier, because there's no windows to worry about.


Chris, did you make your curved chisel from an existing one? A few years back Hot VW's had an article using the same procedure you used but they used a air chisel. Could you post a picture of your chisel or how you modified a chisel that breaks the spot welds and lifts up the rail? Excellent work!
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M113
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

to unroll the drip rail use these carefully
http://www.eastwood.com/door-skin-removal-pliers.html


The bus roof does not need to unroll the drip rail. The roof is spot welded to the gutter in the flat spot. The easiest way is to cut the roof off as close to the gutter and air chisel out the valley. Then on the donor roof remove the gutter and plug weld the new roof into the old gutter on the bus.
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M113
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also after you unroll the drip rail you can break the spot welds from the roof to the gutter. There are only about 6 spot welds spaced about 12" apart in the section I did on Chris's roof. I am going to do another clip on a 59 I have some day. When I do I will try to remember to take detailed pics for this thread if anyone cares.
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mykidsbug
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish i had the skill to do that!! beautiful!
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

M113 wrote:
Also after you unroll the drip rail you can break the spot welds from the roof to the gutter. There are only about 6 spot welds spaced about 12" apart in the section I did on Chris's roof. I am going to do another clip on a 59 I have some day. When I do I will try to remember to take detailed pics for this thread if anyone cares.


It's about time you jumped in Joe! haha, makes it look like I came up with all this stuff. I don't want to take credit, in fact I wasn't so sure about the whole drip-rail-peel-back idea. But I think it was a great idea and worked out really well. Thanks again for your help and mad genius skilz (that's right with a 'z').
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Offy 220
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Paterson wrote:
M113 wrote:
Also after you unroll the drip rail you can break the spot welds from the roof to the gutter. There are only about 6 spot welds spaced about 12" apart in the section I did on Chris's roof. I am going to do another clip on a 59 I have some day. When I do I will try to remember to take detailed pics for this thread if anyone cares.


It's about time you jumped in Joe! haha, makes it look like I came up with all this stuff. I don't want to take credit, in fact I wasn't so sure about the whole drip-rail-peel-back idea. But I think it was a great idea and worked out really well. Thanks again for your help and mad genius skilz (that's right with a 'z').


Joe and Chris - Thanks for the info and the link for the pliers. If you do the 59 please take detailed pics - I have been holding off installing a rag top on my 60 until I saw your installation - great job!
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Guess what? I took second place at Kelley Park this year! Stoked!

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rockpig
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, absolutely stunning! What wheel/tire/susp combo are you running? Classic looks with a modern touch.
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estolze
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beautiful looking bug!nice work
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rockpig wrote:
Wow, absolutely stunning! What wheel/tire/susp combo are you running? Classic looks with a modern touch.


Thanks! They are 175/65/15 Contis in the rear and 145/65/15 Contis in the front on stock smoothies. The front is a 4" Punch Drunk Customs beam with CB's Wide 5 disc brake with drop spindles. The rear is a little different. I upgraded it to IRS by welding in the pivots and then bought some trailing arms and flipped them to remove the camber when lowering. The rear is also CB's wide 5 disc brake kit (IRS version). Here's a pic of the setup:

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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

estolze wrote:
beautiful looking bug!nice work


Thanks!
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Rometsch2880
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did you get your running board mats and fender beading?
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rometsch2880 wrote:
Where did you get your running board mats and fender beading?


A guy on here zundapp. I'd PM him, it looks like he took his ads down. He sprayed them matched to originals.
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Rometsch2880
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response. I have a beryl green 61, but had to settle for black mats and beading. I would love to find the correct color for my car.
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Paterson wrote:
rockpig wrote:
Wow, absolutely stunning! What wheel/tire/susp combo are you running? Classic looks with a modern touch.


Thanks! They are 175/65/15 Contis in the rear and 145/65/15 Contis in the front on stock smoothies. The front is a 4" Punch Drunk Customs beam with CB's Wide 5 disc brake with drop spindles. The rear is a little different. I upgraded it to IRS by welding in the pivots and then bought some trailing arms and flipped them to remove the camber when lowering. The rear is also CB's wide 5 disc brake kit (IRS version). Here's a pic of the setup:


I found a better pic:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You have to notch the frame horns too, btw.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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