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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WideFive wrote:
Sounds like you've already made the decision to be lowered Wink

Spindles are the logical 1st step when lowering, then using the beam (adjusters) to get you lower. I don't know if you'll notice a difference in "smoothness" of ride or not, but it won't be any worse.


For some reason I had thought I read that doing just an adjustable beam, was known as a "cut and turn", and didn't allow the suspension and torsions to promote a smooth ride. Must have not read it that carefully Embarassed .

So if I want to preserve the option of returning to stock height, I can have my kingpins rebuilt and not worry about dropped spindles, with no penalty in wear or operation?

Thanks.
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WideFive
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're good.... I was just saying you may or may not notice a difference by the seat of your pants. Geometry wise the less you lower with the beam the better.

If you're happy with it now, no need to change things.
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starke
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi guys,

I'm in process to lower my 72 brazilian split bus and would like a little help.

Someone here has the measures of this piece ? I want to manufacture a couple.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thanks
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scottvw
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why don't you buy a set from Old Speed. Giving you the measurements is like pirating music.
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WideFive
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, just do it the old fashioned way... buy them and then copy them. That what people do to my stuff Mad

Those look like vwrepublic.com drop plates. Type I stuff. Not sure of Old Speed sells those?
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ratherb-buggin
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scottvw wrote:
Why don't you buy a set from Old Speed. Giving you the measurements is like pirating music.


X2
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starke
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scottvw wrote:
Why don't you buy a set from Old Speed. Giving you the measurements is like pirating music.


Do you know if he send products to Brazil ?
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

starke wrote:
scottvw wrote:
Why don't you buy a set from Old Speed. Giving you the measurements is like pirating music.


Do you know if he send products to Brazil ?


Please direct sales inquiries to the seller or company.
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mannys66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WideFive wrote:
Yeah, just do it the old fashioned way... buy them and then copy them. That what people do to my stuff Mad


Dude you still harping on that? I told you I only made 100, and once I sold out I only made another 50, of which I only have 5 left.
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WideFive
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manny, all corresponance must go through my lawer. You should know this by now.
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cage66
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the measurements Manny.
Laughing Laughing
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ratherb-buggin
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally finished up my lowering project. Here are some photos from this past weekend. Shout out to themissourikid (Brandon) for helping me get everything put back together in time. Very Happy 32 hours of straight wrenching in one shot.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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ccb_dan
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks really sharp there buggin.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have a couple of questions.

First of all I am building a '67 Bus, I have flipped the spindles (not completed yet) . I had a ball joint front end in my Bus before and I am swapping back to a late Link/king pin front end. The sway bar from the ball joint one is a very close fit. The ends could share the bolt that is the pinch bolt for the link pin and I could use the bushings and clamps from the ball joint front end to mount it to the control arm of the link pin front end.
So, has anyone done this? What have I missed?

Next, I am omitting the RGBs at the rear. I have the long axle long spline axles and tubes but I need a set of adjustable spring plates. i have been looking at the ones from Wagens West. I was wondering if it was at all necessary to have a toe adjustment ability on the rear to compensate for camber? And, does anyone make spring plates with that adjustment available?

Thanks, Gordo.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have an answer to the sway bar question, but I always thought that the trailing arms on a bay beam were slightly wider than a split, and therefor the sway bar would not work.

You don't NEED adjustable spring plates, but they are nice for fine tuning the ride height and leveling the rear suspension side-to-side. The holes in the rear of the springplate where the axle tube end casting bolts on are elongated, allowing toe-in adjustment. Stock bus springplates do not have this feature. Adjusting the toe-in does not have any affect on camber. However, toe-in changes along with camber as the wheel cycles through it's range of motion.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right the sway bar is wider by a couple of inches, but by tucking it in to the pinch bolts it seems to line up OK. I have ordered new sway bar mounting kits and I will try a real fit once they arrive.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

As far as the rear adjustments. I think I mainly want the adjustable spring plates for taking the wheels off with out too much trouble.
I am asking about toe , not because I plan on running massive amounts of negative camber, but more to have the adjustment to minimize tire wear and to ensure straight tracking.

Gordo.
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ratherb-buggin
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccb_dan wrote:
That looks really sharp there buggin.

Thank you! It's taken about a year and a half to recover from the initial cost and get her to looking as she does. She did well on her maiden voyage. I'm working out a few few bugs (turn signals, alignment, etc) and then taking her on a 1,000 mile trip this weekend to my hometown. Can't wait!!
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question regarding flipped spindles on my '67 Bus. The seals and seal washers that go against the control arms don't seem to fit now,as well as the caps for the other end pf the link pins.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

What is done to remedy this issue? Is a smaller seal used and the washer trimmed down? Is the cap just shaved down and tacked on?
Thanks for any help, Gordo.
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Krustybus
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always been able to use the lower seal/washer as is. The upper seal will need a slight trim at the top to sit flush. Seal washer shouldn't need anything done to it. The caps will not fit, since the recess for them is now on the arm side of the splindle. Unless you're running through a lot of water or dirt, leaving them off is ok. Just keep everything well greased.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, Thanks.
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