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hand held media blaster not doing a thing
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Linda Grunthaner Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: hand held media blaster not doing a thing Reply with quote

I have a hand held media blaster similar to the one shown here, I hooked it up to my air compressor set at 90 psi then tried 100 psi and using walnut shell media. I tried to remove some paint off a set of magnesium wheels and it doesn't do anything to the paint. Before I head out to the local hardware shop to get some sand are the walnut media just a poor media for removing paint or is it because I'm using a portable 110 compressor? My compressor is a oil less with a 25 gallon tank capable of higher psi.

I also tried to clean up some unpainted sections on the wheels and it didn't do anything either.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All i have ever used is Good #30 screen Home Depot sand or a glass bead machine. I'd forget about all the fancy medias unless they were close/cheap.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike I'm off to Home Depot.

Mike Fisher wrote:
All i have ever used is Good #30 screen Home Depot sand or a glass bead machine. I'd forget about all the fancy medias unless they were close/cheap.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

walnut shell is for doing really fine work like electrical say an armature or fuse block.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walnut shells are also good for polishing up used brass for reloading ammo.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use sand on everything we restore... you just can't use it to remove all the paint and material from say a door skin... the sand will heat and warp the thin, unsupported door skin... for this scenario you would machine strip the paint/bondo first, then lightly etch the metal with the sand from a distance...

your hand blaster is a great tool... I recommend you put an inline screw on filter at the base of the gun to remove moisture from the line... any water in your line makes sandblasting more like constant gun disassembly and unclogging...
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

volksgroove
Interesting I'm using it on mag ARE wheels and used play sand to remove the paint, it started working well then it started to stop and go. I bet the moisture clogged it. I'll get a small inline filter to remove the moisture but I think I need to buy glass media because the sand is leaving the metal bumpy. So do you think I won't need to purchase a blast out of bucket type gun?
http://www.eastwood.com/blast-out-of-a-bucket-abrasive-gun.html

Interesting note on the warpage of thin metal. I didn't know this thanks a TON!

I'll post pictures.

volksgroove wrote:
I use sand on everything we restore... you just can't use it to remove all the paint and material from say a door skin... the sand will heat and warp the thin, unsupported door skin... for this scenario you would machine strip the paint/bondo first, then lightly etch the metal with the sand from a distance...

your hand blaster is a great tool... I recommend you put an inline screw on filter at the base of the gun to remove moisture from the line... any water in your line makes sandblasting more like constant gun disassembly and unclogging...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wait a second here... You mean I don't have to purchase a several hundred dollar sandblaster with a gigantic tank?

Think

Reeeeeeeally......interesting.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the discussion began with sandblasting wheels... A pistol blaster with a decent 220 compressor behind it will be adequate... Not ideal, but adequate... I sandblasted my steel wheels at home with a tired and well used 60 gallon Campbell Hausfeld compressor and a pistol blaster... Put a regulator and filter at the gun and turned the pressure down as low as I could with it still removing paint... This keeps compressor from constantly running, and helps keep your pressure at the gun from dropping.

I now have a body shop with a bad ass 3-phase compressor and a pressure pot blaster that is a huge improvement for larger jobs... Bu I still use the pistol almost daily for smaller stuff... Just keep the air clean...

And as far as the pitting, that's what sandblasting does... Back off pressure and distance from wheels to minimize... Rule of thumb is always use minimal psi and distance that do the job... You may need to apply a DTM filling primer first and sand smooth with 150 and finish in 320-400 before top coating...
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea just small jobs with this cheap setup my problem is the wheels are magnesium and I can't use chemicals to remove the paint that I'm aware of. Anyone ever hear of chemical paint remover for magnesium? If I were to spend a few grand on some large equipment I'd wait till I relocate to a much larger garage which would mean moving.

I want to keep the wheels with the magnesium look no paint at all but not happy with the pitting and not sure if I send them out if they will do any better at the media blaster shop. Sanding seems like it will be a problem too. I'm going to buy some glass beads and see it that is any better. That's why I wanted to try the walnut media to avoid that pitting but walnut did nothing and I suspect my compressor isn't strong enough but pressure is pressure so now I think your comment on moisture is the problem with the walnut not working as the walnut soaks up all the moisture like a sponge. Your thoughts?

Volksgroove I found this inexpensive filter but read the review and the guy said he also bought the oilier what is he talking about? And thanks for your help Very Happy

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-tool-accessories/38-compact-air-filter-68230.html

This is what my wheels look like in this comparison chart link. As you can see they will be OK if I just blast them even with a little pitting. Note I will tape off the smooth outer ring as it needs to stay smooth. I wonder if I should think about soda blasting? I'll check with our chemistry teachers here at school (I teach technology) and see what that will do although I suspect that is a very bad idea. Our VW motors are magnesium right? What do you guys use for cleaning up the blocks?

http://www.zparts.com/zptech/comparisons/wheels/pages/are_vs_noname_back.html

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volksgroove wrote:
I believe the discussion began with sandblasting wheels... A pistol blaster with a decent 220 compressor behind it will be adequate... Not ideal, but adequate... I sandblasted my steel wheels at home with a tired and well used 60 gallon Campbell Hausfeld compressor and a pistol blaster... Put a regulator and filter at the gun and turned the pressure down as low as I could with it still removing paint... This keeps compressor from constantly running, and helps keep your pressure at the gun from dropping.

I now have a body shop with a bad ass 3-phase compressor and a pressure pot blaster that is a huge improvement for larger jobs... Bu I still use the pistol almost daily for smaller stuff... Just keep the air clean...

And as far as the pitting, that's what sandblasting does... Back off pressure and distance from wheels to minimize... Rule of thumb is always use minimal psi and distance that do the job... You may need to apply a DTM filling primer first and sand smooth with 150 and finish in 320-400 before top coating...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those wheels are aluminum. You can use paint stripper on them and then your walnut shells.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told they were magnesium, how do you know that they are aluminum?

Mike Fisher wrote:
Those wheels are aluminum. You can use paint stripper on them and then your walnut shells.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think American Racing ever made that wheel in magnesium. Magnesium wheels are a lot darker/different color.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick lesson on air pressure... Pressure is pressure, but volume is what dictates available air to maintain pressure... My upright 60 gallon compressor puts out 10.3 scfm supposedly, but she is tired... Anything smaller than that will not produce enough volume of air to sandblast much... Regardless of media... Also watch how worn out your ceramic tip gets... The smaller hole 3/32 or so will help keep pressure up with limited volume... But clogs even easier... If its worn and the opening is much larger, it will require much more volume to maintain pressure...

As far as filters, you need to contact a paint and body supply store in your are and ask for an inline filter that goes at the base of your sandblast gun... They are usually orange, made of plastic, and screw into the threads your air fitting screws into at base of gun... Also you need a regulator inline with it as well... A paint store will know what you are talking about, as many painters use this combo at base of their pai t guns... The separator you show in the link is nice as well, but not instead of... If you cans swing bothe, you will have much cleaner air supply for all air tools...
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, I contacted a few sites yesterday, one guy from the HAMB forum told me to put white vinegar on an inside spot to see if it bubbles to indicate magnesium. Being our blocks are magnesium have anyone ever heard of that?
HAMB link with replies to my question:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8101

Then I contacted the owner of the Libre comparison Eric Neyerlin - owner of ZPARTS.COM page and he gave me another site which has more info that I'll ask the question to. I do understand the darker metal indicates magnesium but I really want to be sure. Although I will buy some glass beads. When I tried the walnut on the inside of the rim which has no paint it did nothing but I'm sure that has to do with the moisture.

Libre with more info great link with material comparisons which I'll email today:
http://vintagedatsunwheels.com/magnesium--aluminum

http://www.roadsters.com/wheels/

http://www.vintage-wheel.com/index.html#

Eric's original link:
http://www.zparts.com/zptech/comparisons/wheels/pages/are_vs_noname_back.html

Your thoughts on the vinegar it doesn't seem harmful although if it bubbles that is scarey to me.


If I don't like how they turn out I'm going here and buying some repros these look nice although I'd like to find a shop to give me a price on restoring mine if I can't get good results. Has anyone ever tried Detroit Wheel I read a little about them and they do really nice work.

http://www.vtowheels.com/
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

those hand held units most of the time dont have a big enough feed hole from the hopper to the sucksion side.so the wallnuts wont flow through there.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
those hand held units most of the time dont have a big enough feed hole from the hopper to the sucksion side.so the wallnuts wont flow through there.


If you're using whole walnuts that might be the problem. Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Linda sounds like a "Nervous Nelly" Laughing Post a picture of the wheels & you will get some opinions. Idea
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My experience with the lil blaster is less preassure seems to work better 100lbs is way too much for the one I have ...just my 2cents worth
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68IHscout wrote:
My experience with the lil blaster is less preassure seems to work better 100lbs is way too much for the one I have ...just my 2cents worth


I totally agree... Least pressure that works is always good rule Of thumb...
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