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Fuel injection relief here!
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ziconylo
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:39 am    Post subject: question to fuel injected heads Reply with quote

Hi my cyl head with temp sensor for 68' squer is 311 101 375A. I found head 311 101 355D. Seems from book that inlet and exchaust valve have the same diameter 35.5mm/32mm. Simple question, will the second one fit to my engine?
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Betty Squareback
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for disappearing; got sidetracked with unexpected clutch repair. Tram, I checked the resistance on Temp Sensor 1 and found it within range at both cold and warm, so it's functioning.

To recap:
Aux air regulator is functional and currently set to "middle" setting.
Won't hold idle at cold start with temp sensor 1 unplugged.
Will idle pretty well (bettwer with a bit of help on the gas pedal) with temp sensor 1 plugged in, but eventually develops a surge. Surge goes away when temp sensor 1 unplugged.

New development:
Having connected temp sensor 1 and warmed the car up, then disconnected sensor and driven happily away, after some distance (approx 2.5 mi at 35 mph on streets, then 2 mi highway, then half a mile on streets again) I begin to notice the car is underpowered when taking off from a stop (such as red light) but will eventually (3 seconds?) pull through and gain power again. Seems to get worse with further driving, but is not totally consistent. Additionally, from time to time, I can feel this slight drop in power while car is actually in motion, and then it pulls through and goes back to normal.

What is the proper "Let's start at the beginning" way to work through the troubleshooting? The cold start issue may be distracting me from a separate issue. I go often get a backfire when letting my foot off the gas in shifting between 1st and 2nd, could an exhaust leak be part of the problem?

One thing I know for certain... is that there is a lot I don't know.

Thanks, guys, for lending your learned ears and fostering another confuddled newbie.

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KTPhil
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked for vacuum leaks at all hoses and from the MPS?

These can cause surging, hard starts, random odd-running.
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Betty Squareback
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:13 pm    Post subject: vacuum leaks Reply with quote

Not methodically, and this seems like a sensible first step. Is there a straighforward procedure for this?
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Betty Squareback
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exclamation Idea Exclamation Just read JSMskater's thread on airleaks. My 'surge' may fall into his description of 'hunting'.

It makes sense to me that a leak would cause worse performance as the car heats up (warmer hoses are more pliable). But then a lot of nonsensical things make sense to me. Rolling Eyes

Although my backfires are at deacceleration, they may be a separate issue.

I will take carb cleaner in hand and follow the steps outlined in the thread to see if I can locate something.

Many thanks!
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Betty Squareback wrote:
Exclamation Idea Exclamation Just read JSMskater's thread on airleaks. My 'surge' may fall into his description of 'hunting'.

It makes sense to me that a leak would cause worse performance as the car heats up (warmer hoses are more pliable). But then a lot of nonsensical things make sense to me. Rolling Eyes

Although my backfires are at deacceleration, they may be a separate issue.

I will take carb cleaner in hand and follow the steps outlined in the thread to see if I can locate something.

Many thanks!


Backfires are also indicative of a lean condition- either too much air at the intake, or introduction of air at an exhaust leak.

I think you've got one issue causing all symptoms.
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Betty Squareback
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: exhaust leak Reply with quote

There is some light cracking at the mouth of the molded elbow that connects the air cleaner to the Intake Plenum (thanks, Collin, for the pocket dictonary). I wonder if this be the source of Too Much Air at the Intake? If so, is this a part I generally find new, or something I have to beg borrow or steal?

Exhaust Leaks, I understand, are harder to locate. Do I just 'listen' or is there another clever method?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Re: exhaust leak Reply with quote

Betty Squareback wrote:
There is some light cracking at the mouth of the molded elbow that connects the air cleaner to the Intake Plenum (thanks, Collin, for the pocket dictonary). I wonder if this be the source of Too Much Air at the Intake? If so, is this a part I generally find new, or something I have to beg borrow or steal?

Exhaust Leaks, I understand, are harder to locate. Do I just 'listen' or is there another clever method?


replace ANY hose that looks even a little sketchy. did you try my choke the throat method? it'll help narrow down if your air is leaking in from either up or down stream of the throttle.

I always just stick my mitts around the joins of the exhaust and feel for the puffs of heat... but this may not be the Bentley prescribed method. Laughing
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Betty Squareback
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll try the 'choke the throat'. With this many places to look, narrowing down to one side or the other is a definite help.
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First Fasty
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:53 pm    Post subject: Switching from propane back to gas Reply with quote

Hi,
I am a newbie to the site and to VW's, especially the Type 3. I just bought a 1970 Fastback with automatic tranny and fuel injection. The car was converted to propane in the 70's.
Any chance anyone can tell me how tough it might be to switch it back to original? Ideally a step by step procedure would be awesome.
At this point I've only had the car a few days so I know very little about it but I would like to have it run on gas eventually.

Thanks so much,
Mike
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Switching from propane back to gas Reply with quote

First Fasty wrote:
Hi,
I am a newbie to the site and to VW's, especially the Type 3. I just bought a 1970 Fastback with automatic tranny and fuel injection. The car was converted to propane in the 70's.
Any chance anyone can tell me how tough it might be to switch it back to original? Ideally a step by step procedure would be awesome.
At this point I've only had the car a few days so I know very little about it but I would like to have it run on gas eventually.

Thanks so much,
Mike
First Fasty


Pleae post pics of the setup! Very rare.

Setting it back to stock is really just a matter of sourcing the parts and bolting/plugging it together. Check the classifieds here and you probably find all the parts you need. It will also depend on what was retained in the LPG conversoin.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a brown
VOLKSWAGEN SERVICE MANUAL Type 3 1968 through 1973 by Bentley from www.amazon.com
Get a used 1974 edition that has the Color wiring diagrams.
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First Fasty
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks KTPhil.
That's kinda what I figured.
So fuel pump, pressure regulator and hoses you figure? I have the gas tank, just need to reinstall it after I take out the propane tank. That is if I decide to change back.
Is there parts I'm missing?

Thanks,
Mike
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First Fasty wrote:
Thanks KTPhil.
That's kinda what I figured.
So fuel pump, pressure regulator and hoses you figure? I have the gas tank, just need to reinstall it after I take out the propane tank. That is if I decide to change back.
Is there parts I'm missing?

Thanks,
Mike


Make sure it is a Type 3 FI tank-- they are different than carb models.

Do you have a Bentley manual for your car? Best resource and good photos and diagrams.

We can'treally tell what you need without photos of the engine bay. I saw one you posted elsewhere, and it looks like they kept the same runners and plenum. Did they leave the injectors in place? Look for those, as well as the ECU, inside the left rear fender. Also look for the wiring loom from the ECU. Is the pressure sensor still hanging under the left side trun floor? How about relays under the dash (on the bolkhead, not the fise block) and under the back seat (do not confuse with the rear defogger relay). Temp sensors still there (left head and crankcase), and how about the AAR? (hose from plenum to it, and from there to air cleaner)

See what I mean? Lots of thigs to check! Photos really help. Try to take/post ones of the areas I mentioned, and we'll have a better idea of what is still there.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:46 pm    Post subject: help with no start Reply with quote

Just bought a 69 square with auto trans and FI. Previous owner said it ran but it had been sitting for "a couple of months." Based on the smell of the fuel and condition of the brakes, I'm sure it had really been sitting for years.

clean out tank, and fuel lines (lines had previously been replaced), flushed out fuel pump(with diesel) and installed fresh gas and new battery, it started right up and ran. Fixed the brakes and went for a test drive. It ran good for a mile or two but then was hesitating pretty bad and then lost power and died on me.

got it back, and started with the basics - new points, cap, rotor, wires, plugs (correct Bosch plugs) adjust valves (they were really out of adj.) oil change
and cleaned out air filter - still no start

I've read every page of this thread and I'm an ASE L1 certified Master Tech (25 years experience) and Star certified Mercedes tech. (not bragging, just wanted to let you know that I know what I'm doing and have done my research)

I checked everything - cyl. head and air temp sensor within spec (when cold), fuel pressure 29psi when cranking, relays are good, power and grounds are good, contacts in distributor are working (used a waveform viewer to compare both signals are the same). I have injector pulse at all four injectors although its not lighting up the noid like a modern system, I'm assuming that's due to the lower voltage used for the injectors in this system. I pulled the injectors and turned it over, I get a stream of fuel out of each injector, not the usual fine mist or spray cone I would expect. Is this normal on these?

The engine runs when carb cleaner/starter fluid is sprayed into the throttle body but dies out like its not getting fuel as soon as i stop spraying. This is such a basic system compared to what I'm used to working on that I can't believe I'm having this much trouble. I must be over looking something.

Where do I go from here?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: help with no start Reply with quote

rfalcojr wrote:
Just bought a 69 square with auto trans and FI. Previous owner said it ran but it had been sitting for "a couple of months." Based on the smell of the fuel and condition of the brakes, I'm sure it had really been sitting for years.

clean out tank, and fuel lines (lines had previously been replaced), flushed out fuel pump(with diesel) and installed fresh gas and new battery, it started right up and ran. Fixed the brakes and went for a test drive. It ran good for a mile or two but then was hesitating pretty bad and then lost power and died on me.

got it back, and started with the basics - new points, cap, rotor, wires, plugs (correct Bosch plugs) adjust valves (they were really out of adj.) oil change
and cleaned out air filter - still no start

I've read every page of this thread and I'm an ASE L1 certified Master Tech (25 years experience) and Star certified Mercedes tech. (not bragging, just wanted to let you know that I know what I'm doing and have done my research)

I checked everything - cyl. head and air temp sensor within spec (when cold), fuel pressure 29psi when cranking, relays are good, power and grounds are good, contacts in distributor are working (used a waveform viewer to compare both signals are the same). I have injector pulse at all four injectors although its not lighting up the noid like a modern system, I'm assuming that's due to the lower voltage used for the injectors in this system. I pulled the injectors and turned it over, I get a stream of fuel out of each injector, not the usual fine mist or spray cone I would expect. Is this normal on these?

The engine runs when carb cleaner/starter fluid is sprayed into the throttle body but dies out like its not getting fuel as soon as i stop spraying. This is such a basic system compared to what I'm used to working on that I can't believe I'm having this much trouble. I must be over looking something.

Where do I go from here?


Check your temp sensors 1 and 2 and make sure they're in spec. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Make sure your cranking voltage is 12v or higher.

The stream out of the injectors is strange. Pull the plugs and see if they're flooded.

And... just curious... if you're Star Certified, why do you even have starting fluid around? Confused

Have you ever worked on a pre 1976 3,5 or 4,5 V-8 in W111, W108, W109, W116, or W107 cars? If so, same basic system. If your dealership still has an old Bosch EFAW FI tester tucked away in the parts dept. or in a back room, (the one with the dual ECU plug end) that'll test out your system and pinpoint the issue lickety- split.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am betting the bad injector pattern is the clue-- probably clogged from sitting for so long, or from crud that made its way to the injectors and their mesh screens. Liquid fuel doesn't burn, gas vapor does.

When replacing them, did you make sure the small injector seals were in good shape? Large air leaks there can foul the mixture in strange ways.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm looking for a good, inexpensive Electronic Fuel Injection system (kit) to put on a 1964 356C Porsche engine. Do you know of one?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

donwtalley wrote:
I'm looking for a good, inexpensive Electronic Fuel Injection system (kit) to put on a 1964 356C Porsche engine. Do you know of one?


Good AND inexpensive? Come on... it's a Porsche. If it's not a thousand- dollar part, the car will reject it!

But seriously- check with some of the guys on here that run megasquirt- supaninja seems to be the Prophet for this stuff.
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 4:00 pm    Post subject: more FI woes...but it's running(':lol:') Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
I am betting the bad injector pattern is the clue-- probably clogged from sitting for so long, or from crud that made its way to the injectors and their mesh screens. Liquid fuel doesn't burn, gas vapor does.

When replacing them, did you make sure the small injector seals were in good shape? Large air leaks there can foul the mixture in strange ways.
Laughing

Thanks Tram and KTPhil for your help - I went back and checked all the basics (sensors within spec)- then pulled those injectors because I really didn't like the look of the injector spray - blew some air backwards through them while activating the injector and got piles of rust out of them - reinstalled them on fuel rail (and reflushed all of the fuel lines, replaced fuel filter before pump and installed another fuel filter inline before injectors to catch any more rust) and now I have a nice spray pattern - put everything back together and engine started right up......BUT

I've got no power at all, it dies out and is very hard to restart when warmed up (it's also backfiring a bit, which I know is a sign of lean mixture). couldn't find any vacuum leaks but I replaced all of the vacuum lines that looked questionable, cleaned and adjust AAR valve because it wasn't shutting off at all when warmed up and checked MPC and both temp sensors when warm.

Both temp sensors are within spec hot and cold - MPC should be 90 at outside terminals and 350 on inside terminals, right? - I've got 107 on the outside and 372 on the inside....the book and here online just says around 90,350. It doesn't give me an ohm range that is acceptable so I'm not sure if this is where my problem is.

Tram - The starter fluid was sitting in the back seat of the square when I got it - I know better than that but I'm also gonna use up whatever I've got laying around for free first!('Cool') and unfortunately I no longer work for Benz but I'm gonna try to get a buddy to dig out the FI tester that I know is sitting in the tool room untouched.

Thanks again for your help guys...hope I can return the favor to someone on here eventually........
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