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crushie
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Joined: September 23, 2011
Posts: 626
Location: alberta
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 Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:10 am Post subject: |
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My fab for an air cleaner for the weber 32/36 progressive carb. The flame decal and vw emblem come off easy! 
OLD, 
NEW.
Last edited by crushie on Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:18 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Stuartzickefoose
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Joined: February 07, 2008
Posts: 5360
Location: Edmonds, WA.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:11 am Post subject: |
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| crushie wrote: | My fab for an air cleaner for the weber 32/36 progressive carb. The flame decal and vw emblem come off easy!
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thats pretty cool looking. if only my FI wasnt working perfect...i might copy that. 
_________________
MINE - 1978 Westfalia ~ Maisy ~ FI, Hydraulic Valves, Electronic Points, 2.0 (NEED A SET OF HEADS, PM ME IF YOU HAVE A SET)
DAD's - 1972 Westfalia ~ Sticky ~ 1.7(?) 914 motor, allison electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, dual webers w/o choke.
“Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened.”
“Those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23840
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:06 am Post subject: |
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| RatCamper wrote: | busdaddy interesting idea with the mixing bowl. Especially from a geometric point of view. I'm assuming you mean installed upside down so it curves down over part of the carburettor, and with a bit of trial and error interface with the concavity in the air cleaner?
I only see two issues with that approach. The carburettor may interfere with the bowl, and my other half would tear me a new one if I cut up a stainless mixing bowl!
I'll take a picture of the spare cleaner base tomorrow. It's an interesting shape. Kind of a rectangle-y jellybean. The base has the concave indent running along it where the air cleaner hole resides
If you are wondering, I couldn't use this cleaner with the adaptor if I wanted to. The hole is just too small to take it, and it's the sort that has the center stud on the carb to hold it in place, not the crush type. |
The bowl is just a suggestion, the point is look at common household items as donors of preformed metal shapes (assuming you want to get the filter as low as you can for clearance). If you need oblong cut the bowl in half and add a couple inches of flat between the cuts or look at roasting pans.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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TinTopWesty
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Joined: April 12, 2012
Posts: 20
Location: Saint Chuck Mizou-rah
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:13 am Post subject: Stoopid (or maybe just Noobie) Qwestions... |
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Please feel free to tell me what I have done wrong or am in the process of doing wrong, I am new and in over my head...
Goals: Take my son and his two children on camping trips and road trips to see the midwest USA and maybe more once we get going...
Tool: 1969 Tin Top Westphalia, inside works fine for our needs. I want to add a Gilmore a/c unit (feel free to comment) I like the look (simplicity) of the Sanders unit with the center mount, like Vintage Speed sells, for the compressor. (comments welcome). I need to do something about its performance though because its scarry watching the speed drop on hills especially at what started out as highway speed.
Engine: Bus came with shrink wrapped (and yes I've seen "Hotel for Dogs") on pallet JCS 1835 longblock I installed, running the 1600 s/p 's Solex 30/31 on an d/p manifold adapter and a 009 providing spark. I do have a Solex 34-3 of unknown heritage on the shelf, and a Bosch 031 distributor on the blown engine (please comment). Since I'm thinking about a/c I was thinking dual ICT, Kadron rather than single progressive. I don't want to hotrod, just keep it up as much as possible on hills, and spin the compressor on 95/95 (temp/humidity) days.
Love: Muir's Book and Castrol Edge (syntec) combination lubricant, leak detector and engine/engine compartment cleaner/rust inhibitor.
?JCS?1835?Gilmore?performance in Westy?carburation?distributor?other stuff?
Comments sought |
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Stuartzickefoose
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Joined: February 07, 2008
Posts: 5360
Location: Edmonds, WA.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:18 am Post subject: |
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dual carbs and a Dual Advance dizzy would work better and have better power and performance and economy than a single with a 009 dizzy. as far as the rest of the stuff....no idea
_________________
MINE - 1978 Westfalia ~ Maisy ~ FI, Hydraulic Valves, Electronic Points, 2.0 (NEED A SET OF HEADS, PM ME IF YOU HAVE A SET)
DAD's - 1972 Westfalia ~ Sticky ~ 1.7(?) 914 motor, allison electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, dual webers w/o choke.
“Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened.”
“Those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23840
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:27 am Post subject: Re: Stoopid (or maybe just Noobie) Qwestions... |
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| TinTopWesty wrote: | | Comments sought |
First off welcome!
You'll likely get a better response posting this as it's own thread and editing the title as your questions and build progress. Including the basic specs of your Westfalia in your signature line would help too.
The 34PICT3 would be an improvement over the H30 and the duals would help even more, but you'll have to enlighten us regarding your skills as tuning duals is a long painful process that really requires some previous experience. As for the AC the Gilmore unit is nice, personally I'd concentrate on getting the bus in 100% road trip shape first and add the AC once it's dialed in, who knows? you may find out rolling the windows down is enough afterall. And the slowing on hills?, there's little you can do about that but sit back and enjoy the scenery 
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 19846
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:32 am Post subject: |
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| Aircooled.net sells a good out of the box progressive set up. They can pretune it to our engine. For this system to work well, you would need an exhaust with the heat riser connections. Check out their site for more information. |
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TinTopWesty
Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2012
Posts: 20
Location: Saint Chuck Mizou-rah
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:20 pm Post subject: Thank you Stuartzickefoose, busdaddy, Wildthing |
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The more I hear the more I know how little I know (gee, that sounds like Socrates), my 1969 Kombi with stock Westphalia Interior overloaded with tent, food, ect, is currently running a Bugpack stock diameter merged header, a local machinist made an adaptor to push the single quietpack rearward a half inch to clear the rear engine mount and we blocked off the riser at cylinder four to run the carb preheat from two through the stock dual port manifold through some pipe and into a fitting on this adaptor to get flow instead of a 2-4 cha-cha. I hope it works, it SEEMS hotter than before.
I don't know enough to know what specs are relevant, the heads supposedly have 40 mm intake and 35.5 exhaust valves, and a 400 lift 284 duration cam. In addition to the incongruity of mixing SAE inch and Metric measures I think this means the valves open faster, stay open longer and are larger than stock to increase flow to the bigger cylinders, necessitating the solid shafts and heavier springs to handle the increased (violence?) in the valve train, apparently this is what some guys building hi-mile-per-gallon and hi-lifetime engines seek to avoid, oh well.
I like to think i got to be an old girl by not being afraid to admidt what I don't know, I've read (Saint) John Muir's talk on syncronizing duals, but I've never done it. Of course I also went 69 years without pulling an engine, then did it three times in one week (blown engine, oops forgot the rear mount, fixing the Class One Leak that blew syntec everywhere). My late husband loved his 32/36 Weber on the 1965 Splitty Camper we had 25 years ago, I also remember getting it up and running wasn't a five minute job. I have patience, time, THE BOOK and the ability to listen. I do ONE JOB AT A TIME so WHEN(not if) I f*** something up, I can go back and fix it and not confuse myself into thinking it wasn't my doing. Maybe my a/c addiction comes from years on Florida's Gulf Coast, but Saint Louis Missouri (pronounced MIZZ-ER-REE) is hot and humid come July and August.
I don't expect to keep up with 3.5 liter sedans or 5.0 sports cars, and within safe limits, amen to brother Wildthing. My post wasn't specific enough, I watch speed bleed from 60 to 55, 50, 45 in the Ozarks or climbing out of the American Bottoms (east side of Mississippi River in Illinois) not traversing the gorgeous, majestic Selkirks or in Kettle Valley.
I haven't tried the 34-3 because I havent tweeked the 30/31 yet (changing carb jets was another new experience) and I'm just not sure how much the 10 percent or so in venturi size will get us. Posts suggest that the SVDA will work with the 30/31 so I'll try that next. PLEASE, nothing I have (or will have) said is mean't to suggest that I know what I am doing, I WELCOME all forms of Comments (except for get a Sienna) criticisms, ect...
NEW QUESTIONS: dual quiet vs. single quiet pack mufflers, next engine 1776 not 1835?
Lois |
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RatCamper
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Joined: November 13, 2008
Posts: 3307
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Wildthings wrote: | | Aircooled.net sells a good out of the box progressive set up. They can pretune it to our engine. For this system to work well, you would need an exhaust with the heat riser connections. Check out their site for more information. |
Aircooled.net has an amazing knowledge of carburettors and jetting. If I had to buy a progressive setup I'd get it from them.
But in saying that What I got was a barely used early SCAT conversion that had been shelved for a very long time. Pretty much barely used NOS. I was lucky. Carb eventually needed a rebuild and total rejetting but now it runs perfectly. I know it's not on the type 4 anymore, but it is on a motor with the same capacity and layout.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
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RatCamper
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Joined: November 13, 2008
Posts: 3307
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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Here's the base of the air cleaner I want to alter to a Weber base. Ruler shown for size and sandwich because I was having lunch. My daughter rejected it because of the bread. Homemade German Rye. Mm-mm. good.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
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DayJob
Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2012
Posts: 1
Location: Oregon
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| Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:41 pm Post subject: Charcoal filter.. Missing |
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Just purchased a 78 FI bus, have been on a mission to fix my vacuum leak issue and have run into a bit of a challenge. The previous owner has removed the charcoal canister and left the holes unplugged.
Stupid question #1. Is there a way to bypass the charcoal can? If so, what issues can I expect?
Stupid question#2. The yellow plastic line above the engine lid.. Mine is broken towards the middle and not attached to anything.. Should I be worried? |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23840
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 7:08 am Post subject: Re: Charcoal filter.. Missing |
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Welcome!
| DayJob wrote: | | Stupid question #1. Is there a way to bypass the charcoal can? If so, what issues can I expect? |
Gas stink when the bus is parked.
| DayJob wrote: | | Stupid question#2. The yellow plastic line above the engine lid.. Mine is broken towards the middle and not attached to anything.. Should I be worried? |
Yes, that line can vent fuel in the right conditions, that's a potential fire hazard.
Here's a little reading on the subject: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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crushie
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Joined: September 23, 2011
Posts: 626
Location: alberta
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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I have a Hella fog light switch that has three connections on the back.
Number 15 for the ignition, 31 for side marker, here is my question.
The last connection has the letter K by it. Is this a ground? Does the K mean anything? |
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Desertbusman
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Posts: 13056
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:23 pm Post subject: Re: Thank you Stuartzickefoose, busdaddy, Wildthing |
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| TinTopWesty wrote: |
I haven't tried the 34-3 because..............
Lois |
Wow, 69 years old and you are just now pulling engines? Good goin'. Guess there is no time like the present to learn new tricks. I won't be 69 until this summer but have been pulling engines for about 55 years. Most of that was pulling them out the top and not dumping them out the bottom.
Here's the deal- Imagine some big strong muscular guy with big lungs that wants to run down the road and climb mountains. But someone has sewn his mouth halfway shut and he can only inhale little breaths.
At least work on the 34-PICT3. Throw away the little carb to manifold adapter that's on there now. If the 009 is a good one (not all are) don't sweat it. It'll probably give your engine as much or more guts as a fancy distributor will. There are more than one reason why VW performance people use them. Although there are a lot of other options but don't be afraid of a mechanical distrubutor.
Dual carbs will give you a boost. My baby Weber 34-ICT's help enough to make them worthwhile. Although I've never seen a gal tune and sinc duals.
You've got big displacement, big valves, big valve opening, an improved over stock exhaust and choking the inlet so everything is compromised. I run dual quiet packs and they are healthier than a single but your intake is so restricted it might not be that big of a deal. Dump that little carb. 
Your next battle will be engine heat. Big engine = more heat. So plan on dealing with the killer heat. The new A/C's draw much less power from the engine than the old systems but any HP drain is less performance and more heat. I'm talking more uncomfortable heat, not for you, but for the engine. So when it's really hot outside you might learn to just leave it turned off.
Now with that big engine what have you done to increase the oil capacity? Those two things go hand in hand. I hope your engine is fullflowed, has a filter, deep sump, and an external cooler supplimenting the stock cooler. Remember, any added power adds extra heat.
But regardless, keep on having fun. By chance, you wern't the little old lady driving a Corvette in Pasadena were you?
_________________
The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
| 73kombi wrote: | | when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice. |
| Amskeptic wrote: | I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley |
71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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flapjakpat
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Joined: August 24, 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 1:39 am Post subject: |
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When I turn the ignition switch to "on" the oil light comes on, but not the generator light. Is this a problem?
On a side note, I can't start my engine (but there are other problems I am pursuing. I was hoping that this wouldn't add to the chain of problems but I just don't know what to think about it). |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23840
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:25 am Post subject: |
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| flapjakpat wrote: | | When I turn the ignition switch to "on" the oil light comes on, but not the generator light. Is this a problem? |
Yes, if the fan belt breaks how will you tell if the cooling system has failed? Also if your bus has an alternator it will never charge with a burnt out bulb.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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Big Papi
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Joined: January 06, 2012
Posts: 150
Location: Oregon
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hey guys,
I've seen this question asked before, but I couldn't find the thread. What is the hole for in the case (upper right in photo)? Is it supposed to have a plug or seal of some kind? It opens right up into the engine compartment when the engine is installed and seems like a bad way to get a bunch of gunk on the flywheel/clutch.
If it needs a seal. Whats it called and where do I get it?
thanks
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1978 ASI Riviera
TypeIV FI |
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whatdoesthisbuttondo?
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Joined: April 05, 2012
Posts: 53
Location: Victoria
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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New to this stuff, lots of stupid questions... I am about to make the two gaskets that go between the heat exchangers and fan shroud, as per the instructions on Ratwells site. He recommends using 3mm thick 'fibre board' as the material, but his pictures appear to show gaskets made of cork material. Is this the same stuff? Will it stand up to the heat in that location? Will 2.5mm thick material work?
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Orange 1973 Westy. 2L w/ 1700 case. Dual Carbs. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23840
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Big Papi wrote: | Hey guys,
I've seen this question asked before, but I couldn't find the thread. What is the hole for in the case (upper right in photo)? Is it supposed to have a plug or seal of some kind? It opens right up into the engine compartment when the engine is installed and seems like a bad way to get a bunch of gunk on the flywheel/clutch.
If it needs a seal. Whats it called and where do I get it?
thanks |
The hole is for accessing the torque converter bolts when you have an auto transmission, I'm not sure if the plugs are available new but you do see them in the classifieds occasionally and Home depot may have something that'll work, it's not a big deal if it's missing.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23840
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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| whatdoesthisbuttondo? wrote: | | New to this stuff, lots of stupid questions... I am about to make the two gaskets that go between the heat exchangers and fan shroud, as per the instructions on Ratwells site. He recommends using 3mm thick 'fibre board' as the material, but his pictures appear to show gaskets made of cork material. Is this the same stuff? Will it stand up to the heat in that location? Will 2.5mm thick material work? |
The OG gaskets were cork like material, 2.5mm may be a little thin but try it, you can always double up. That joint doesn't get really hot except for a short while after shut down.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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