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Canadian 1967 11 window restoration.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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Location: Kelowna, BC. Canada.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dougy Dee wrote:
Check your diff real well for cracks. 3 of the last RGB trans I have done had cracked diffs...


how so? The ring gear? The housing? The carrier?

There was nothing wrong with my trans when I parked it (for 16 years), so I think a mouse must have got in there and ate the teeth. Speaking of eating stuff..a squirrel got in through the hole in the floor and ate the whole middle seat cover. except for where a inner tube was sitting. New upholstery to be ordered soon.


Gordo.
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Dougy Dee
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:
Dougy Dee wrote:
Check your diff real well for cracks. 3 of the last RGB trans I have done had cracked diffs...


how so? The ring gear? The housing? The carrier?


Gordo.


Housing, carrier or diff assembly. They're all the same thing. The bores for the side gears were cracked.
Those pieces had to rattle around in there somewhere so inspecting the R&P teeth would be a real good idea. Hopefully they stuck to one of the two magnets and haven't gone through your gearbox.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries, I have a new carrier, spiders, side gears. The ring and pin look good as the pieces were stuck on Magnet and I know almost the time of day that the damage took place. thanks for the haads up and the concern.

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Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I had some time , so it was open up the engine to see what it looks like. Not so good. The tops of my exhaust valves have been hammered and mushroomed over. All signs point towards me driving this alot harder than I remember. Head gasket leak also. The compression rings had also worked they way around and the end gaps were now lined up (weird). I am now pricing out two different engine builds....go back to 1641 with 041 heads or use the stroke prepped block (waiting) and build a stroker big bore.

Only took half a beer to get it apart.

Gordo.
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brettsvw Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Canadian 1967 11 window restoration. Reply with quote

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:

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Your cargo floors look decent except for the outer 10 inches of each side.

Replacing the outer sections with decent thickness repair panels would be much easier and stiffer than the thin orange stuff. Unless they have improved over the last year.
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skaw
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice build flemcad.... I also have a 67 walk thru, I cant wait to get it home and start a build thread... Looks good man keep it up Blue Bus
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I went to see how my bus is coming along. Joe has finished most of the sand blasting and is starting to dig into the frame and cross members. Of course the rust is much worse than anticipated, but can't turn back now.

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joe is going to color match the epoxy primer to the bottom color of the bus.

More to come soon. Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some panels are getting on the bus now. Just got some Gerson parts from Bustoration, they look like good quality, and I was not charged any HST crossing the border with them because it was busy.

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Test fitting and gap checking the lower quality (CIP) dogleg.
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Floor supports are in and some floor.
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Slow and steady.

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I went to check on the progression of the bodywork and to see how my guy Joe is doing. Things are really starting to come together, although I fear my budget for his work will fall short of my target....surprised? He has been exceptionally charitable on this build by lowering his charge out rate and not counting all hours. I think he is starting to like the old bus, although he says he won't be getting one for himself anytime soon.
This is how it looks so far.
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I will post some pics later of where I am at on the 2110 engine build as well.

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deeper down the rabbit hole we go.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a quick question for all of you who have done a nose replacement. My body guy Joe is planning on using some of the new generation metal bond epoxy to glue the entire front nose (below the window) in place. I understand that the new metal epoxies are amazing and that they are being used on Lotus frames and Semi frames alike.

I am just curious if anyone has heard of it being used in restoration projects?

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am working on many parts of this build at the same time, so while waiting for engine parts I am taking a closer look at the cooling portion of the engine and all the tin.
I am using a Empi 36 horse do house fan shroud with no heater outlets. It came with no holes for factory t-stat flaps. I know the t-stat flaps and bellows help the engine warm up and maintain proper temp. , but I have also been told that the flaps help direct the air even when fully open and help keep the engine cooler where it needs to be cooler. (not that i am looking to get a two page response from Jake Raby) I do want to do what I can to keep this 2110 engine cool even when stuck in traffic. I even found my hoover bit, but I will have to add to it for a good fit to the Empi shroud.

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After reading all the bad press given to the porsche fan shrouds I have decided to stay with the 36 horse doghouse shroud and add a fan controlled external oil cooler with a oil thermostat bypass.

Gordo.
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking forward to seeing how that shroud setup pans out.
_________________
BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So far I have only had to make a minor adjustment to the length of the link between the left and right flaps to account for the different distance that they are mounted in. I made sure that they are both fully open and closed at the two extremes of the throw.
I also made some rather unscientific test to witness the flow differences with and without flaps installed (fully open, of course.)
Conclusion...the flaps and t-stat, stay.

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got the flaps and all the bits together and painted. They are now installed in the newly painted Empi 36 horse fan shroud.

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Still waiting on cylinder spacers from gene Berg, once they arrive I will be able to begin the rest of the engine assembly.
I hope to get the bus back to me in a few weeks to begin the body finishing.

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Busy now. My cylinder spacers arrived from Gene Berg, so I can continue on with the engine assembly. I picked up my long axles and tubes from Steve (barn full of parts) at AVR (kelowna), so I can finish my RGB omit on my transaxle assembly. I also picked up a complete link pin front end, so I can replace the ball joint front end that was in my bus. Thus begins the work of flipping the king pins and installing adjusters on the new front end. The bus body panels should almost be all installed, so I will begin to massage (grind) them to perfection and smooth it all over.
There is only one of me and 24hrs in a day...that sucks.

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The next step on the engine assembly was to get the Compression ratio where I need it. So now that I have the cylinder spacers in place and measured the deck height, I can adjust the combustion chamber volume to what is needed.
I was able to open up the areas around the intake valve to help it flow better. Once the chambers were cc check and all equal, I began the task of a light polish on the chambers and the exhaust ports.
I am not a engine guru and have no plans to be the next VW head master, but they are all equal in volume and shape and they still have quench area. This is a mildly tuned build so they should be adequate for my needs.

before.
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After.
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Gordo.
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skaw
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Thank you Gordo for the nice panels, and your bus is looking amazing, I am truely inspired!
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SKAW, your welcome, glad they could get another chance at life in a bus.

Here is where my Bus restoration has gotten to while I was in Oregon.
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nearly ready for epoxy primer underneath and inside, then onto the grind and smooth.
I will be tackling the kingpin flipping this weekend, that should be interesting.

On another note, while I was in Eugene, OR , I saw a nice Patina Beige split bus on the road and went by a house near Gateway Mall with a minty Bay and an earlyish bug....Samba members?

Gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I almost have the engine completed. Just waiting for pushrods and rocker shims.

I lapped the cylinders into the heads with valve lapping compound.
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I sealed the cylinder spacers and cylinders to the case.
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And torqued the heads on.
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I am just trying to fit the blend of old and new cooling tin pieces onto the engine now. This takes patients. very frustrating.
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Gordo.
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