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banditwolf
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 Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:20 pm Post subject: Rusty Metal |
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I would like some suggestions on what type of products to use. I see so many looking on the internet I just want to use the correct type for what I need.
I am working on repairing rusted areas and I am using a wire wheel to clean the metal but other areas just can't be cleaned easily such as inside a frame or hard to reach area. So what is good to use on the rusty metal I can't really clean? Do I want a rust converter, encapsulator or both? I would also like to be able to paint over some areas with the body color if possible.
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Matt Wilson
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David
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ccpalmer 
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:01 am Post subject: |
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There's a few others out there too; POR15 for one. Rust converter AND encapsulator is another way to go.
Wire wheel is not the way to go - get a cheap sandblaster or flap wheel.
The more prep you do the longer it will last - of course the best is to cut out the metal. Anything else is short-term.
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banditwolf
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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I know about many products our there and how to clean and prep. The question is about what to put on areas that can't really be accessed with cleaning materials such as inside a tube/frame that has some surface rust.
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DHMaher
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Eastwood makes an internal frame coating spray with a flexible tube to get hard to reach areas.
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oldmanmark
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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| tried POR15. alot of fuss to get it right. when its right its good. i only masterseries silver. its simple to use and works. use phosphoric acid (a.K.A. oshpo) let it dry,scuff it and 2 coats of masterseries over welds. use it alone still good. plus you can always ask Chuck ?'s ,he aswers back. |
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oldmanmark
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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| that Eastwood stuff is phosphoric acid with other additves. its really handy doing inner heater channels and A pillars down were the defrost tubes come up out of the channels. |
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banditwolf
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| Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 6:58 am Post subject: |
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So I should spray phosphoric acid on the areas I can't clean first? I do like the description of Masterseries.
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beetlenut
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| Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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| banditwolf wrote: | | So I should spray phosphoric acid on the areas I can't clean first? I do like the description of Masterseries. |
If you really can't get to those areas, ya kinda want to put something on it while you have it opened up. I usually coat it in Ospho, and once that dries spray something like the Eastwood frame coating, master series, or something to encapsulate the rust to keep oxygen from getting to it any more. The great thing about phosphoric acid is that it chemically converts iron oxide (rust), which is atomically unstable and always looking to combine with oxygen, to iron phosphate, which is atomically stable. This effectively stops the iron-oxygen reaction. So it's like primer on an atomic scale. It can wear off over time, so thicker coatings over that (primers, encapsulators, master series, etc...) only ensures that the area will stay sealed-off from oxygen and further reactions.
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banditwolf
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| Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the explination.
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Beata
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| Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 10:45 pm Post subject: |
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I would really recommend citric acid if you can remove the rusty piece from the car.
Put the rusty piece in water wit citric acid. In a couple of days all the rust is gone.
Rins it in warm water and dry it immediately. then but some protective paint on it because the bare metal will start to rust.
Note! this only works on steel. Not aluminium or steel coated with zinc. |
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