Cylinder Heads back from machine shop

[JPunt]

I finally got my cylinder heads back from the machine shop (Little over a month) but anyways I had the heads flycut for the new 1.8 P&C since they were 1.7 heads for the 914 case. My gasket set came today, and I think I am finally ready to get the ball rolling. BUT.... the machine shop bead blasted the heads which is nice, although he left the valves, rocker assembly, and etc on the head. So now I get to clean everything. I borrowed a valve spring compressor from a buddy to take all the valves and springs etc to clean. And when I went to take out the first valve you can hear the glass beads "tearing" everything up so it sounds like. I stopped there, Any advice or anything? I will try to get some pictures tomorrow after work.

Sorry for the novel

[busdaddy]

Wow!, sounds like some real high end work, sure you want to take a chance installing those on an engine?

The only answer I can offer is lots of lube to wash the beads away as you attempt to remove the valve (WD-40 is cheap and conveniently packaged for this job), so did the valves ever get removed for any measuring or machining? or did they just bead the heads and flycut them?
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[JPunt]

Yeah exactly, major disappointment. Valves were never removed, like you said just a simple flycut and bead blast. And I am being sure to clean everything possible to the extreme. Kitchen sink with dish soap and streams of water and soap through every hole, then to the garage with air, then back in the kitchen again lol

[Amskeptic]

[SGKent]

You do know don't you that your heads were not rebuilt. They simply made them look shiny and flycut them. Right?

You need to drill a yard stick or something and mark it with the # of each valve. DO NOT MIX them up as you take it apart and put them in the holes on that yardstick. Lay the springs in a row, do not scratch them to mark them lest the break at the scratch, and any low may be bad. If you have access to a spring tester test all of them. Inspect each keeper, retainer and valve for excessive wear. Inspect each seat for pitting. Wiggle each valve in the seat about 1/2 way up and it should be firm and not rock more than maybe the thickness of a piece of paper. Inspect the edge of each valve and the stem for abnormal wear, excessive scoring or stretching. Hand lap each valve to be sure it seats. Don't over do it. Run the heads, valves and springs etc through the dishwasher, take them out hot and blow them dry. Clean the rocker arms and rocker shafts the same. pull the screws as there will be oil trapped in the holes. Once everything is clean oil it liberally when putting it back together. I use oil and assembly lube. Some people use oil and STP mixed together. Don't forget to check the heads for cracks - including the roofs of the ports. Good luck. All the stems should be about the same height when you are done. Be sure the valves go back in the same holes as each one was ground separate for that seat.
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Steve aka Merlin the Wrench

formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.

bdamico on GF wrote

[bwiencek]

^^^^ That's great advice - the only thing I can add is I'd use a pressure washer on the heads once they're disassembled - being sure to pay good attention to the chamber area and intake& exhaust port/guides - those are the 2 main areas where if there is blasting media embedded in there and it comes loose it can cause wear and damage - if there is any on the external surfaces it's not going to "hurt" the engine if it comes loose...

Hopefully you knew what you were getting or told them to do exactly what they did and the shop didn't say they completely rebuilt the heads... Plus I wouldn't ever go back there and warn everyone that you know of on the quality of their work - if they did that to your parts what's to say if someone brought them a complete engine they wouldn't do the same and slap it together and in 5k miles the guides and rings are shot and someone is looking at pulling the engine again for another rebuild.
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[Desertbusman]

You took it to a shop for machining in the chambers and didn't even remove the rocker shafts? Did they ask if you also wanted it torn down for a potential valve and valve guide job? Possibly you ended up with exactly what you had asked them for.
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[JPunt]

Thanks for all the great advice everyone. I'm gonna start again maybe tonight or tomorrow. I'm taking one apart at a time, and I clean then put the valves, springs, retainers, etc in a zip lock and label 1,2,3 and so on.

I took it there told them I wanted them cut, and everything checked over. Which obviously that did not happen. I'm debating on calling there and complaining but that never does any good so who knows. And the valves do have some movement so now I'm thinking if I have to get new valves, guides, springs, and everything. I might as well just got all new heads (but I don't want to, neither does my wallet)

[udidwht]

What specifically does it show/list on your receipt from them? Since you have your heads back by all means complain to them if they did not actually rebuild the heads.

What was the charge?

Only a few reliable T-4 head builders I know of...take a guess on who they are?

[Wildthings]

I can't believe a shop would bead blast a head with all the hardware and especially the rockers still installed. Never seen or heard of such a thing before.

The cost of sending your heads to a Type 4 head specialist shouldn't be all that high if the castings are actually serviceable. Just to have them rebuilt with stock size components doesn't cost all that much.

[SGKent]

[bugger101]

You have any pics of the heads let's see there work. hope they cut it right did you check it with the cylinders.
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[JPunt]

I sent them everything since I wanted everything checked. But yeah the cylinders fit great. And ill try to get some pictures when I get home

[JPunt]

Here's some pictures, there kinda crappy quality.

Everything seems to be cleaning up real nice. There wasn't as much debris left over as I thought there was at first. Still have to do the other head. Then reassemble








Sorry there so big. I don't know how to make them smaller

[SGKent]

[Westfabulous]

[SGKent]

better check this area to be sure it will seal up. Also you have what looks like a heli-coil, time-sert or threaded insert in one of the plug holes. Be sure that the plug goes into that hole correctly before going too far with these.


_________________
Steve aka Merlin the Wrench

formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.

bdamico on GF wrote

[JPunt]

Yeah, I did already check with that cutting, its just the way my phone's camera took it there all cut good. I am going to lap them with valve grinding compound to be sure. And yeah the first thing I did was check that plug hole lol.

But with using the lapping compound you mix it with water to create a paste correct? Also it would probably be a good idea to do the same with the valves too?

[bigbore]

They didn't have the right fly cutter at all those were cut with a end mill bit that is wrong and from the looks of them they may not seal they are way ruff.
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[JPunt]

Well this sucks

What do you guys think I should say if I call there?