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1300 Extra Mileage Motor
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
If you REALLY want to chase mileage without loosing too much power, one of the best cams on the market today is the CB 2280.
Agreed! The Cheater cam is a unique part. There's nothing else like it really. CB engineered and ground that cam years ago when they were making FI long blocks that had to pass California emission standards. They found it worked really well with carbs too.

Anyone have any thoughts on changing the lobe center of this cam to achieve better fuel mileage? CB says it's ground on 107 LC but they will grind it to whatever LC you want.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy076 wrote:
OK. I screwed up. When I installed the 1300 in the car I replaced the old blue coil with a new blue coil. seemed like a good idea.
The engine was hard to start all along. I thought I was flooding it by touching the pedal before cranking.
This morning, I wanted to start her up. Nothing. Dead as a hammer. Checked for spark. None. Changed to old coil. Fires right off, every time.
I can already tell the engine runs much better.
I'm going to recheck the mileage. I think it should improve some with a coil that is working properly.
Before someone asks, Yes, it was wired correctly. Just a bad coil from the start.

To my knowledge there are 5 different blue Bosch coils on the market. Only 2 of them has anything to do with a blue coil, except for the colour. You apparently ran into one of the ones that is just blue. The three knock off versions can barely hold 10KV when they get warmed up.

T
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the skinny on Bosch Blue Coils:

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info on coils, Darth. I bought one of the bad ones. Live and learn.
I thought the price was too good to pass up. Now I understand why.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there are 5 different BOSCH "Blue Coils", this doesn't even count the counterfeit Bosch coils....
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 1:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darth, A couple of years back i messed around with having them ground on 110 LC to see if I could make them pull a little higher in the rpm and in another engine (single port) for a more even idle.
The idle in the sgl port engine didnt really change. And it is only something a trained ear will notice.
The engines also lost some of their edge and a little bit of power. So I stopped playing with it and went back to regular 107 LC.
In the meantime I have figured out how to improove the idle to a stock like smoothness. So it is not an issue for me anymore.

T
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 4:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not used to working with small displacement engines. Is the differance between CB's cheater cam and the FK-65 I'm using really a large change?
Cheater cam-216 deg & .050 / .299 lift at cam, 107 sep.
FK-65 cam- 236 deg at .050 / .342 lift at cam, 108 sep.

The FK-65 idles almost like a stock cam, even down at 700rpm.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy076 wrote:
I'm not used to working with small displacement engines. Is the differance between CB's cheater cam and the FK-65 I'm using really a large change?
Cheater cam-216 deg & .050 / .299 lift at cam, 107 sep.
FK-65 cam- 236 deg at .050 / .342 lift at cam, 108 sep.

The FK-65 idles almost like a stock cam, even down at 700rpm.

The Cheater cam specs are 274/222 duration and 0.359"/0.394" lift w/1.1:1 rockers. The duration difference of 14 degrees between the two cams can be significant especially if you are using a single carb vs. dual carbs. The lift difference is highly significant - 0.394" vs. 0.479". The Cheater cam is meant for stock 1.1 rockers, the FK-65 is a ratio rocker cam meant for 1.4:1 rockers. That's a hugh difference in lift between the cams. I'd classify the FK-65 as a mild performance cam and the Cheater cam as a very mild upgrade over a stock cam - or - a fuel mileage cam.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup, I talked to a tech guy at CB (not Pat Downs) a while back and he mentioned they tried the Cheater cam ground on 110 or 112 LC on a turbo motor. He said it was pretty much a pig and ran hot all the time.

I asked the CB guy if grinding the Cheater on 106 or 108 LC would help the engine get a bit better fuel mileage. He seemed to think grinding it on 108 might be worth a try. I guess I'm just confused about the whole lobe center thing. I've searched and read most of the threads about it here and what I'm trying to find out is if there's definitive proof that grinding a cam narrower or wider than 108 degrees will have a positive effect on fuel economy? I know it can move the torque and HP peaks around but I just wanted to see if there would be benefits for the fuel mileage.

Somebody help Darth! He's lost in space!! Shocked
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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dawie
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Closer lobe centers results in more valve overlap. In single carb and plenum type injection, this causes more "internal egr" at light loads and idle, as vacuum from other cylinders are coupled. Excessive exhaust gas sucked back during overlap causes the misfiring/rough running during idle associated with a "wild" cam. Going to dual carbs or individual throttle bodies reduces this problem. On the other hand, too wide lobe centers/too little overlap may just cause reduce cylinder filling/power.

Retarding the cam will cause both inlet and exhaust valves to close later. "Dynamic compression ratio" goes down, and static cr can be increased to compensate. This results in higher expansion ratio, or "semi Atkinson cycle". Reduced pumping losses, but also reduced torque at lower rpm's.

Higher expansion ratio helps to capture an extra few % more of the energy that would otherwise be lost through the exhaust... but only at full and medium loads. Opening exhaust valve too late may cause higher cht's.

Think the camshaft is one of the last places to try get that extra bit of efficiency... once other aspects (proper mixtures/timing/etc) have received proper attention. But that is just my own humble opinion...
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am running the FK-65 with 1.1 rockers. May not be intended for this, but it seems to work well.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh, I see, then your cam isn't that far off of the cheater cam specs. Only thing is the opening rate, how fast the ramp on the cam is. I believe the cheater cam has a fast opening rate. Being the FK-65 is meant for 1.4's it may have a bit slower ramp but hey, if it works for you and you are happy with the results then it's all hunky dory. Very Happy
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just bought one of the good bosch coils . it seems every thing is going up . 40 days ago i bought the same bosch blue coil for $35.00 at my vw parts store. today i bought the same bosch blue coil and it was $45.00 every time i turn around vw parts go up . and to top it off gas went from $3.59 gal. to $3.90 gal. lol spencerfvee
DarthWeber wrote:
Here's the skinny on Bosch Blue Coils:

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Spencer you kill me! Gasoline has been well over $4 here in SoCal for MONTHS!! I'd love to pay only $3.90 for gas, $3.59 in my dreams. Rolling Eyes

Hey, $10 more for a blue coil, just consider it your contribution to reviving the economy!! Dancing Applause
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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66brm
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
Laughing Spencer you kill me! Gasoline has been well over $4 here in SoCal for MONTHS!! I'd love to pay only $3.90 for gas, $3.59 in my dreams. Rolling Eyes

Hey, $10 more for a blue coil, just consider it your contribution to reviving the economy!! Dancing Applause


You guys need to stop worrying about fuel prices till it hits extreme prices, we are currently at $1.43 a litre and have been for a couple of years, it has been as high as $1.62, hell coke is cheaper
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Kadrons are horrible excuses for carburetors.

modok wrote:
I am an expert at fitting things in holes, been doing it a long time
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modok
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THe cheater is SO MILD, that I don't think you'd really want to change the Lobe center, you could change the advance a little maybe, perhaps from 4 advance to straight up.

Rather, how about lets call the cheater the standard, and if we want to play then we can use LC, and splits cams, and what all. too ADD later IC point, or more overlap, or whatever else you would want to do WITH the cheater

with IR carbs it could stand a lot more overlap, to use more CR with a single throttle system you could leave the overlap the same but extend the IC point later, really depends what you are doing, but in any case you'd want to ADD to it, rather than re-arrange it's timing points, IMO

BTW, most of the "blue coils" in my bucket are faded, rusty, or just plain not blue at all, but they all tested good, color does not seem to effect the operation. Wink
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

$1.62 AUD is about $1.66 USD. So that would be about $6.27 a gallon.

But you live on the edge of the world there in Perth so they have to transport it all the way out to you by land train right? Shocked
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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66brm
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, we produce our own fuel here, or is bulk tankered in when demand outstrips supply, the cost is pretty much the same across the other side of the country too,but in the middle bit you are looking at over $2.10 a litre due to shipping costs into the more isolated areas.
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[email protected] wrote:
Kadrons are horrible excuses for carburetors.

modok wrote:
I am an expert at fitting things in holes, been doing it a long time
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Boolean
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paid 8.62 USD/gallon a few days ago. My pickup truck gets 12 MPG.
Housing and food combined is still more though...
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the idea of building this 1300 from a topic that was posted on here about two months ago, plus the $4.00 a gallon fuel prices. I can see from postings around the world that prices here in the U.S. are not nearly as high as most everywhere else. I'm just getting an early start on a problem that is only going to get worse.
I made the mistake buying a coil that is a piece of junk. I can't return it because it's an electrical part. I'm not buying another one. I dug in my boxes of VW parts and found two of the short 12V. bus coils. Cleaned them up and tested them with a meter and on the car.. Put one in the parts bag in the car and the other on the good used parts shelf for future use.
What happened to pride. Companys don;t care if it works or not, just can it be sold.


Last edited by bugguy076 on Sat May 05, 2012 4:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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