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jpeters Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 788 Location: Woodsfield, Ohio
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66brm Samba Member

Joined: January 25, 2010 Posts: 2537 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:00 am Post subject: |
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I think both would achieve what you want to do, I can recommend using the shielding gas as the welds will be a lot cleaner than the flux core option that seems to splatter everywhere _________________ Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval
| modok wrote: |
| I am an expert at fitting things in holes, been doing it a long time |
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djkeev Samba Member

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 8166 Location: Central Morris County, NJ
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modok Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 8797 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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| renderit wrote: |
| Looking for a 110 mig. What is the best one out there. |
A used miller 130xp may be the best popular 110 volt mig ever made, VERY good welder and you can still find them for 300 or less, mufler shops can't kill them.
I've run several hundred pounds of wire through mine and only replaced tips, I use straight CO2 and good quality wire.
The newer miller and lincon now use cheaper transformers since copper has gone up so much in price, they are ok but I would not pay list price for one. Hobart is pretty solid for the price
if you have some$$ look at HTP, they make a 110 volt monster mig WITH COPPER
To judge the quality of a welding machine; just see how heavy it is. unless it's got lead weights inside this will easily tell good from cheap _________________ Glen Urban |
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xkeots Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2011 Posts: 105 Location: NY
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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| marklaken wrote: |
TIG is more versatile and produces beautiful welds, but it is much more expensive - you can still do very good welding with a MIG and the equipment cost is about half ($600 for MIG compared to $1.2k for TIG)
I think TIG is for the everyday/pro welder/fabricator - MIG is for the hobbyist/DIYer |
Here's from experience.
Buy a MIG, practice with it on scrap and you will get real good real fast.
Then take the extra you have left that you would have spent on a TIG and get a plasma cutter. You might even have enough for an OXY too.
Jack |
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Spitty1974 Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2011 Posts: 250 Location: California
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:29 pm Post subject: Still Confused About a Welder |
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Ok, so I have spent several days looking at this entire post and I'm still a bit confused.
I need a welder for the following jobs for my bus:
*Plug weld front floor.
*repair small section of driver's wheel tub that meets front floor.
*cargo door rocker outer and inner, first 8 inches or so of cargo floor entire length of cargo door space.
*lower inner and outer section of both cargo doors.
*possibly a rear corner
*And, if I'm really brave the lower section of the front exterior window frame and a small section of dash.....But I may just have someone do the front windshield screen.
*I also would like down the road to be able to use the welder for making a rotisserie. At the bare minimum I want to make one that has four casters, bolts up to the front and rear end and allows me to move my bus around the garage. And, if I get really brave, I may decide to add on the option to turn the bus over...But for now I just want to built the basic system with the four caster set up.
Saying all of that and reading the entire post, I am still confused. I am thinking I may end up buying the Hobart 140 or the comparable Miller option.
Any suggestions? I am going to stick with the 115 versions, no 220 as I never see the need for that level of welding in my future. However, I like to buy quality tools that last.......What would be the best option for price, durability, and versatility?
Thank you for any comments or suggestions.
Spitty
I'm sure, much to the dismay of my wife this will not be my only project car, as my dad has an old 29 ford that has been sitting for many years that I would love to restore one day. |
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jpeters Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 788 Location: Woodsfield, Ohio
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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I got the Northern Industrial Mig 135 that I linked to a couple posts above this. Cheaper than the Hobart but basically similar. I love it so far. I doubt I'd be doing any better with a more expensive welder and the Northern Industrial should do everything you mentioned. I also bought a tank of Argon mix and .024 wire. _________________ '73 Westy (dual stock carbs, SVDA w/ compufire)
'68 Westy http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=484180
'65 Westy SO-42 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435614
*PM me if you have SO42 rear facing jump seat or icebox
'65 Bug
neverdnf on Instagram |
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Spitty1974 Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2011 Posts: 250 Location: California
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Towel Rail wrote: |
An auto-dimming helmet (mine is a Speedglas) is an excellent investment, too. Nothing beats being able to point and weld without having to pull down your helmet or look away as you do the weld. You only get one pair of eyes...  |
I hear you about the eyes, I've already had eye surgery in one of my eyes because of sun damage, really scary!......There is no way that I am skimping on a welding helmet......... |
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quartermilecamel  Samba Member

Joined: April 16, 2008 Posts: 3392 Location: ohio
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Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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Who sells a good plasma cutter? I found harbour freight and summit racing. Whats bad about the cheap ones? Or does it really matter. Ive only seen 230 volt ones so far. I dont know if they have 110 volt units. _________________ Looking for the U shaped swing arm for sliding door split. Left hand drive. Baywindow arms are 1/2 inch longer. |
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VizionCustoms Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2012 Posts: 48 Location: SLC, UT
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Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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| quartermilecamel wrote: |
| Who sells a good plasma cutter? I found harbour freight and summit racing. Whats bad about the cheap ones? Or does it really matter. Ive only seen 230 volt ones so far. I dont know if they have 110 volt units. |
Well the cheap ones are just that "cheap."
But you need to be looking at are, welders, plazma cutters and parts you can find to replace burnt, broken and parts on your rig. Like the tips, nozzels, cones, cables, clamps, cords and replacement parts. Thats right the tips are what your going to be replaceing form time to time, from burning them up getting hot or welding your wire to it. Also the nozzels, will melt and brake small chunks off. Also the inside wire core on the wig.(inside the tortch were the wire goes though) Once an a wile the wire will arc back and weld itself to the inside wall of the cable. If you go with a Miller, Lincon, Hobart(millers off brand) you can get parts a any welding store in any state.
But you can get any brand and this is just my 2 cents comming form this old certified welder/fabricator. |
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zozo Samba Member

Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 4202 Location: In cahoots, south o' San Antone
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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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I picked this up off of Craigslist yesterday. It's never even been plugged in. It came with a cylinder of gas of some mixture that he's not sure of, but it was filled at a shop "for use with this welder".
It's the Pro Mig 140
I priced it out at Lowe's, added the cylinder and gas, and I got it for right at half price.
Oh ya, I have NO friggin' idea how to weld. Good thing it came with a book. LOL _________________
| bosutska wrote: |
Cheers from Planets asshole.  |
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beetlenut Samba Member

Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 984 Location: RI
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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:07 am Post subject: |
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^^ That's the exact set-up I have, and I've been able to weld everything on the car with it from 20 gauge to 1/4 inch plate. Easy to find parts for too. Sounds like you got a good deal! _________________ scrapyards are for quitters
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| DesertBob wrote: |
| Get a well rebuilt German Solex 34 PICT 3 carb and a new SVDA distributor and you will think you died and went to heaven. |
Stuff I'm looking for:
73 rear passenger fender - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1481466
My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104 |
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The Jewish Guy Samba Member

Joined: April 03, 2012 Posts: 201 Location: Miami, FL
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:25 am Post subject: MIG from Harbor Freight Tools |
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| wileysc71 wrote: |
| renderit wrote: |
| Looking for a 110 mig. What is the best one out there. |
I don't know what the heck I'm doing with it yet, but based on advice I got here.........I bought a Lincoln 135Plus (infinite controls for voltage/feed).......and I love it. Used it a couple of times for practice and gave it a go on some real body panels. Penetrats nicely w/no burn through. |
I bought one from Harbor Freight Tools and got the extended warranty just in case.. I have had some issues with other things purchased from HF but the extended warranty replaced them with no hassles. The extra $16.00 bucks was worth the investment. It is a nice MIG welder from HF |
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banditwolf Samba Member

Joined: April 03, 2011 Posts: 406 Location: USA
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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Awhile back I was given a used Hobart 120 mig welder. I have been using fluxcore wire and have had great results from it so far.
Also I am using a Hobart auto-darkening Helmet with darkness & senstivity settings. It is also working great so far. _________________ 1973 Super Beetle l 1981 Trans Am |
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legotech7 Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2009 Posts: 274 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 11:56 am Post subject: |
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Just put in my order for the Eastwood 135 Mig welder, free shipping.
With all the good reviews on this machine I just couldn't pass it up for the price. $299.00. Can't wait till it gets here and try it. |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 95 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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| legotech7 wrote: |
Just put in my order for the Eastwood 135 Mig welder, free shipping.
With all the good reviews on this machine I just couldn't pass it up for the price. $299.00. Can't wait till it gets here and try it. |
I have Eastwood 175 machine and really enjoy it. Had it for over a year now. It is a decent machine. |
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legotech7 Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2009 Posts: 274 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:46 am Post subject: |
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Well I put in an order with Eastwood but they had some shipping issues so I canceled out. But still looking for a decent welder, I did some research and even talked to a local guy who does custom fab and a lot of sheet metal work. He has a 135 Mig from northern industrial. He also has one of their plasma cutters. He loves his mig and has had it for over 2 years with no issues. He uses his almost everyday. Showed me some of his handy work, can weld 1/4 inch steel. He says there is nothing on a bug that has 1/4 inch material. So he sold me on getting one.
Got it at my local store. It comes with a 3 year warranty plus I got an extended warranty. Had a $50 dollar gift card so the unit only cost me $300.00 bucks. Hope it can do me and I do it justice........ |
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legotech7 Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2009 Posts: 274 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 1:19 pm Post subject: My first weld |
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Well I got my welder in. Set it all up to lay a bead on a 1/8ht of an inch of angle steel. The welder is set #3 voltage and wire speed at #5. Running flux core wire just to see if I can at least try to run a bead. Well if you can tell by the pic ( a little blurry ) I tried to start with the wire at about a 1/4 inch away from the metal. I started getting splatter everywhere. Then I placed my left hand under my right to steady it a bit and ran a bead in the middle. Not straight but a little better and another on the edge of the piece. Again not straight but a little smoother. I'm trying to every inch of the angle iron,cause its the only piece of scrap I could find to practice on.
I managed to get that sizzling bacon sound that they talk about. Lets see; Machine set at correct setting for the piece to be welded, start arc at correct distance from the piece,place nozzle at correct angle and run bear bead at steady pace or speed. I know; it looks like crap, but I'm going to keep on practicing.
Please any comments, tips suggestions. Critique all you like, all are welcome. I have to get this right if I;m going to work on my dub.
Thanks
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legotech7 Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2009 Posts: 274 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:12 pm Post subject: Second try |
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Well I put another bead on the other side of the angle Iron and ran it on the inside corner as straight as I could. Looks a little better, but still a lot of splatter. I guess its because of the flux core wire. No pics this time, too blurry, camera I guess. I'll keep on trying till their perfect. Its only my first time and only a few attempts. More pics to follow.......
Thanks.......... |
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banditwolf Samba Member

Joined: April 03, 2011 Posts: 406 Location: USA
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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Your settings are way off. It has nothing to do with fluxcore wire. Flux can look just as nice. Try to turn your heat down and wire speed up. Welding on flat steel you should end up with a slightly raised bead not a groove with splattered bits. Either keep tweeking the settings or have someone give you a little help to get started. _________________ 1973 Super Beetle l 1981 Trans Am |
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