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jpeters
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm looking to buy a welder for some body panel replacement on my 68 Westy that I just picked up. Doubt that I'll use it for much more than that. I was looking at both of these:

http://www2.northerntool.com/welding/item-1646140.htm

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332691_200332691

The Hobart comes very well recommended from others on this site. However, the Northern gets great reviews and appears to be very similar to the Hobart. I don't mind paying the extra for the Hobart, but judging from reviews, I'm not sure it would be worth the extra money for my intended purposes.

Any thoughts?
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66brm
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think both would achieve what you want to do, I can recommend using the shielding gas as the welds will be a lot cleaner than the flux core option that seems to splatter everywhere
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be fine with the lesser price one. As mentioned, Get the argon gas mix and use solid wire. It is much easier to weld, results in cleaner welds and no flux gets mixed into the weld which tends to create weak welds and voids.

I use the argon mix and .024 solid wire for sheet metal.

Dave
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

renderit wrote:
Looking for a 110 mig. What is the best one out there.


A used miller 130xp may be the best popular 110 volt mig ever made, VERY good welder and you can still find them for 300 or less, mufler shops can't kill them.
I've run several hundred pounds of wire through mine and only replaced tips, I use straight CO2 and good quality wire.

The newer miller and lincon now use cheaper transformers since copper has gone up so much in price, they are ok but I would not pay list price for one. Hobart is pretty solid for the price

if you have some$$ look at HTP, they make a 110 volt monster mig WITH COPPER Very Happy

To judge the quality of a welding machine; just see how heavy it is. unless it's got lead weights inside this will easily tell good from cheap
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

marklaken wrote:
TIG is more versatile and produces beautiful welds, but it is much more expensive - you can still do very good welding with a MIG and the equipment cost is about half ($600 for MIG compared to $1.2k for TIG)

I think TIG is for the everyday/pro welder/fabricator - MIG is for the hobbyist/DIYer


Here's from experience.
Buy a MIG, practice with it on scrap and you will get real good real fast.
Then take the extra you have left that you would have spent on a TIG and get a plasma cutter. You might even have enough for an OXY too.

Jack
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:29 pm    Post subject: Still Confused About a Welder Reply with quote

Ok, so I have spent several days looking at this entire post and I'm still a bit confused.

I need a welder for the following jobs for my bus:

*Plug weld front floor.
*repair small section of driver's wheel tub that meets front floor.
*cargo door rocker outer and inner, first 8 inches or so of cargo floor entire length of cargo door space.
*lower inner and outer section of both cargo doors.
*possibly a rear corner
*And, if I'm really brave the lower section of the front exterior window frame and a small section of dash.....But I may just have someone do the front windshield screen.

*I also would like down the road to be able to use the welder for making a rotisserie. At the bare minimum I want to make one that has four casters, bolts up to the front and rear end and allows me to move my bus around the garage. And, if I get really brave, I may decide to add on the option to turn the bus over...But for now I just want to built the basic system with the four caster set up.

Saying all of that and reading the entire post, I am still confused. I am thinking I may end up buying the Hobart 140 or the comparable Miller option.

Any suggestions? I am going to stick with the 115 versions, no 220 as I never see the need for that level of welding in my future. However, I like to buy quality tools that last.......What would be the best option for price, durability, and versatility?

Thank you for any comments or suggestions.

Spitty

I'm sure, much to the dismay of my wife this will not be my only project car, as my dad has an old 29 ford that has been sitting for many years that I would love to restore one day.
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jpeters
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the Northern Industrial Mig 135 that I linked to a couple posts above this. Cheaper than the Hobart but basically similar. I love it so far. I doubt I'd be doing any better with a more expensive welder and the Northern Industrial should do everything you mentioned. I also bought a tank of Argon mix and .024 wire.
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Towel Rail wrote:
An auto-dimming helmet (mine is a Speedglas) is an excellent investment, too. Nothing beats being able to point and weld without having to pull down your helmet or look away as you do the weld. You only get one pair of eyes... Cool




I hear you about the eyes, I've already had eye surgery in one of my eyes because of sun damage, really scary!......There is no way that I am skimping on a welding helmet.........
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who sells a good plasma cutter? I found harbour freight and summit racing. Whats bad about the cheap ones? Or does it really matter. Ive only seen 230 volt ones so far. I dont know if they have 110 volt units.
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VizionCustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
Who sells a good plasma cutter? I found harbour freight and summit racing. Whats bad about the cheap ones? Or does it really matter. Ive only seen 230 volt ones so far. I dont know if they have 110 volt units.

Well the cheap ones are just that "cheap."
But you need to be looking at are, welders, plazma cutters and parts you can find to replace burnt, broken and parts on your rig. Like the tips, nozzels, cones, cables, clamps, cords and replacement parts. Thats right the tips are what your going to be replaceing form time to time, from burning them up getting hot or welding your wire to it. Also the nozzels, will melt and brake small chunks off. Also the inside wire core on the wig.(inside the tortch were the wire goes though) Once an a wile the wire will arc back and weld itself to the inside wall of the cable. If you go with a Miller, Lincon, Hobart(millers off brand) you can get parts a any welding store in any state.
But you can get any brand and this is just my 2 cents comming form this old certified welder/fabricator.
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zozo
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked this up off of Craigslist yesterday. It's never even been plugged in. It came with a cylinder of gas of some mixture that he's not sure of, but it was filled at a shop "for use with this welder".

It's the Pro Mig 140

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I priced it out at Lowe's, added the cylinder and gas, and I got it for right at half price.

Oh ya, I have NO friggin' idea how to weld. Good thing it came with a book. LOL
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^ That's the exact set-up I have, and I've been able to weld everything on the car with it from 20 gauge to 1/4 inch plate. Easy to find parts for too. Sounds like you got a good deal!
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The Jewish Guy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:25 am    Post subject: MIG from Harbor Freight Tools Reply with quote

wileysc71 wrote:
renderit wrote:
Looking for a 110 mig. What is the best one out there.

I don't know what the heck I'm doing with it yet, but based on advice I got here.........I bought a Lincoln 135Plus (infinite controls for voltage/feed).......and I love it. Used it a couple of times for practice and gave it a go on some real body panels. Penetrats nicely w/no burn through.


I bought one from Harbor Freight Tools and got the extended warranty just in case.. I have had some issues with other things purchased from HF but the extended warranty replaced them with no hassles. The extra $16.00 bucks was worth the investment. It is a nice MIG welder from HF
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awhile back I was given a used Hobart 120 mig welder. I have been using fluxcore wire and have had great results from it so far.

Also I am using a Hobart auto-darkening Helmet with darkness & senstivity settings. It is also working great so far.
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legotech7
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just put in my order for the Eastwood 135 Mig welder, free shipping.
With all the good reviews on this machine I just couldn't pass it up for the price. $299.00. Can't wait till it gets here and try it.
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

legotech7 wrote:
Just put in my order for the Eastwood 135 Mig welder, free shipping.
With all the good reviews on this machine I just couldn't pass it up for the price. $299.00. Can't wait till it gets here and try it.


I have Eastwood 175 machine and really enjoy it. Had it for over a year now. It is a decent machine.
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legotech7
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I put in an order with Eastwood but they had some shipping issues so I canceled out. But still looking for a decent welder, I did some research and even talked to a local guy who does custom fab and a lot of sheet metal work. He has a 135 Mig from northern industrial. He also has one of their plasma cutters. He loves his mig and has had it for over 2 years with no issues. He uses his almost everyday. Showed me some of his handy work, can weld 1/4 inch steel. He says there is nothing on a bug that has 1/4 inch material. So he sold me on getting one.

Got it at my local store. It comes with a 3 year warranty plus I got an extended warranty. Had a $50 dollar gift card so the unit only cost me $300.00 bucks. Hope it can do me and I do it justice........
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject: My first weld Reply with quote

Well I got my welder in. Set it all up to lay a bead on a 1/8ht of an inch of angle steel. The welder is set #3 voltage and wire speed at #5. Running flux core wire just to see if I can at least try to run a bead. Well if you can tell by the pic ( a little blurry ) I tried to start with the wire at about a 1/4 inch away from the metal. I started getting splatter everywhere. Then I placed my left hand under my right to steady it a bit and ran a bead in the middle. Not straight but a little better and another on the edge of the piece. Again not straight but a little smoother. I'm trying to every inch of the angle iron,cause its the only piece of scrap I could find to practice on.

I managed to get that sizzling bacon sound that they talk about. Lets see; Machine set at correct setting for the piece to be welded, start arc at correct distance from the piece,place nozzle at correct angle and run bear bead at steady pace or speed. I know; it looks like crap, but I'm going to keep on practicing.

Please any comments, tips suggestions. Critique all you like, all are welcome. I have to get this right if I;m going to work on my dub.

Thanks

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legotech7
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Second try Reply with quote

Well I put another bead on the other side of the angle Iron and ran it on the inside corner as straight as I could. Looks a little better, but still a lot of splatter. I guess its because of the flux core wire. No pics this time, too blurry, camera I guess. I'll keep on trying till their perfect. Its only my first time and only a few attempts. More pics to follow.......

Thanks..........
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your settings are way off. It has nothing to do with fluxcore wire. Flux can look just as nice. Try to turn your heat down and wire speed up. Welding on flat steel you should end up with a slightly raised bead not a groove with splattered bits. Either keep tweeking the settings or have someone give you a little help to get started.
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