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trailer my dune buggy
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D_RACK1970
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: trailer my dune buggy Reply with quote

just finished my 1969 VW dune buggy. looking to hit a few car shows and some are kind of far to drive to. I would like some ideas on the smallest trailer I could use to tow it on. I have the tow bar but looks like the front bumper is on the way. Would this be the best way to tow it? If i use the tow bar what do you do to the car? neutral and tie the steering wheel from moving ??

thanks
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smanx57
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neutral and DO NOT tie the steering wheel. It needs to move with the wheels when you turn.
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joemama
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have flat towed mine up to about 500 miles one way. No problems. Having said that, you have to make sure it is in neutral, parking brake off. I do not tie down the steering wheel, it turns when its supposed to. Do not back up, as it will try to jack knife. Also, most of those tow bars are kind of weak. I would make sure welds are good, and maybe re weld some areas. Make sure you have a safety chain system that keeps your buggy attached to the tow vehicle if the tow bar comes off the hitch. AND always check you are in neutral and the parking brake is off, every time you stop, just in case some one thinks its funny to throw your trans into gear, or pull the parking brake on. I also added a flat four plug to the buggy, so you just plug in and go.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smanx57 wrote:
Neutral and DO NOT tie the steering wheel. It needs to move with the wheels when you turn.


If it's a '69 chassis, did you also use the locking steering column from a '69 or later car? You can disconnect battery cable & leave key in ignition, turned so that the column is not locked...

Ditto the comment about not pushing buggy backwards with tow-bar; they have been known to fold-up, break, bend, etc., usually damaging stuff other than the bar in the process.

bryan
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't want to use a tow bar, you might consider a landscape type trailer. We have a 16' X 6.5' single axle version that works very well. It has a 2000# capacity and weighs less that 1000# which makes it towable by a minivan type vehicle. The only downfall was the short (4') long ramp. We fixed that by using oil change type ramps and 2" X 12" X 8' boards. Tom
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drive my buggy 250 miles to shows and 250 miles to play in the sand. If you tow it to a show, you have a trailer, your buggy!
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also rent a car trailer from U-haul for about $100.00.
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lostinbaja wrote:
I drive my buggy 250 miles to shows and 250 miles to play in the sand. If you tow it to a show, you have a trailer, your buggy!


But where do you sleep?

My buggy is definitely NOT a trailer although I do tow it behind my RV, a lot! Park the RV for weeks at a time when I'm working, and use the buggy as my tranportation to and from the job. And when I'm not working, the buggy is my daily driver.
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:
lostinbaja wrote:
I drive my buggy 250 miles to shows and 250 miles to play in the sand. If you tow it to a show, you have a trailer, your buggy!


But where do you sleep?

My buggy is definitely NOT a trailer although I do tow it behind my RV, a lot! Park the RV for weeks at a time when I'm working, and use the buggy as my tranportation to and from the job. And when I'm not working, the buggy is my daily driver.


In a motel, tent, etc. The same places you would sleep if you were towing a buggy/trailer behind a car.
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Jes67
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like a trailer,, here's mine a single axle 3500lb with a 2k winch.Sorta custom built,,, I'm the green buggy. Wink
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dual axle trailer. It will haul any of my VW projects from buses to my drag rail. Spend the money once and enjoy it for life.

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If you flat tow, some people tie the shifter in neutral. IMO, I do not see it popping in gear if left in neutral. Do not back up more than 1 to 2 feet. Use a great set of tail lights to make sure the DA's on the road do not plow into you.
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you looking for ideas so you can build your own buggy trailer, or are you looking for something you can purchase?
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mstevens
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up a 8'x12' utility trailer for $500. That and a set of folding ramps for another $100 and it is perfect for hauling my VW projects. I really like having the "utility" style as it is light for hauling my Manx's, but I have used it to haul are sorts of other items (furniture, wood,etc...)

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D_RACK1970
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So many great ideas. thank you all. keep them coming. When i can figure out how to post some pictures I will. I like the small lite weight trailer. I would be using my lifted Jeep Wrangler to tow. Yes it has the 6cyl and only has 33's on it. Just for those car shows and events that are just a little to far to drive to..
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bunch of ideas here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/misc stuff/trailers
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GS guy
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking about picking up a trailer too, mostly to trailer the buggy long distances but also be capable of moving other/future car projects (up to 3K lbs.), plus general hauling when necessary. I'm thinking open deck car trailer, 15ft. I haven't seen any shorter, but don't think I'd want to go too much shorter than that anyway? The single axle utility trailers seem to be maxed out with a 2K load, plus a pretty high loading height.

One thing I've noticed looking at new trailers on-line, there appears to be two types of decks the wheels ride on - one flat on top, typically diamond plate. The other with inverted rails shape with lips sticking up on either side of the decking. Which is preferrable? Seems like the flat top decking would have more potential for the car sliding off? The flat decking would be better for non-car haluling (with some decking added in between the wheel ramps). OTOH, the type with rail lips might limit the tire and wheel width that will fit beteeen the lips. Any experience out there on the two types? Or recommended length?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flat deck trailer have most versatility as you can load anything from small riding lawnmower to huge 4wd pickups to a 59 caddy...

Most car carrier are a minimum of 16 ft. ( mine weighs in at 1470 pounds and has max load rating of 7000lbs).

Any utility trailer (with a single axle) with a 2000lb load rating should be able to carry a rail buggy or FG buggy with ease as they usually weigh in around 1250 to 1500 pounds.... Both my buggies are under 1300lbs...

Some thing to consider (there was a thread about this some time back) is how you re going to tie down buggy to trailer....

MY 16ft Carson car hauler came with NO TIE DOWN POINTS... So I welded four 5/8 inch steel loops one at each corner for anchor points.

I use 2,500lb (10,000 burst ) straps with ratchet binders on all 4 corners (Calif Law) and have put specific tie down points on rear of buggy (for convince of hooking up)....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511981

I have two of each below...

http://mrproducts.com/2ratchetwheelstrapwflatsnaphookend6-1-2-1-2-1-2-3-1-1.aspx

http://mrproducts.com/2ratchetwheelstrapwflatsnaphookend6.aspx

And carry a pair of these just in case..

http://mrproducts.com/2axlestrap.aspx

Also consider something like this (minimally) for anchor points on trailer...

http://mrproducts.com/flushedforgeddring-heavyduty.aspx

So its a extra $150 to $200 to spend but I can tie down "anything" I can get on trailer, and I know it will still be there when I get to final destination...

Also if going BIG trailer consider unit with brakes.

Dale
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didget69
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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My $800 trailer; 3500 lb capacity axle - was built with heavy gauge wall square & rectangular tubing, used a belt-type hand cranked boat winch for loading. Ramps stored under rear deck. D-ring tie downs at front/rear... 8'x12' deck. Towed beautifully.

Bryan
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up a used trailer years ago. the only thing I hate about it is the fact it doesn't have suspension. the entire trailer is formed from 12ga flat steel. 2 side rails t "X" between them and 2 ramps that are 18" wide. The whole thing weighs less than 900lbs and tows like a dream. in 2010 I added a "V" nose to it and sides 30" high to protect the buggy and cut through the wind a bit better. Over 3600 miles to Bonneville and back at 75mph no problem and the car didn't get a scratch. The nose is made from 1/4" plywood and the sides are core-plast (plastic carboard) on a 1" steel frame. The trailer is just big enough to haul the buggy

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Check your local laws. Here if a trailer "looks" like it can haul a car where the trailer and cargo weighs more than 3000lbs we need trailer brakes

brad
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only advice I can offer to anyone towing rear-engined VWs on a trailer, and especially a single axle trailer, is to make sure you place the load as far forward of the axle as you can. The trailer's tongue needs to be heavier than it's tail. I've seen too many trailers jackknifed because there was not enough load on the tongue of the trailer.

On a standard Beetle, generally, if you can get the car's built-in jacking point (center of balance) a couple inches forward of the trailer's axle you should be fine. On a buggy, that translates to just about the rear of the pan. If you have a short trailer you may need to load the car backwards to get more weight forward of the trailer axle. If you are hauling a VW with no engine, no problem.
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