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VWKDF
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sunroof wrote:
I have had problems in the past with the idle circuit freezing up in cold weather. The worst is around 0 celcius with rain or sleet, it requires constant attention to keep the car idling in traffic. Something that seems to work is to warm the engine up by driving for a few Km and shutting it off for a few minutes. When you start it back up the problem usually goes away. I spent a couple of winters driving my '59 here in Winterpeg where it will be below -30 C for weeks at a time. It works OK until you have a passenger who will insist on breathing which will frost up the windows solid. Fortunately few people are interested in riding in a '59 beetle when it's 40 below.

Don


Yeah what is it with passengers, always taking liberties. Laughing
Seriously, I remember driving my first '56 as a daily, learning to drive while breathing carefully in the winter was an important part of driving that car in the winter. My second 56 I also drove as a daily had a gas heater in it, I was always warm and windows were not a problem. Though driving at night maxxed out my electical system and I had to push start almost every morning (easy with a 36, even by myself).
On topic, Both had 36hp engines all stock and I never had icing issues.
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sunroof
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even worse is when the passenger wants to talk, then you have to tell him/her to shut up, I need to see! Huh?

Don
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ZwitterND
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's in the owners manual. "Winter driving instructions: left hand steering wheel, right hand shift, right hand scrape, right hand shift, right hand scrape. repeat as required. Note: Procedure is reversed for RHD vehicles"
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NINE '46-'49 semaphores. Is there anywhere else on the planet where there are this many of these early sems on one place????


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Bengt H
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Shocked Nice, I have five of them, thougt that was much Laughing
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ZwitterND
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gnarly! Now you need to hook them up to a control board and syncronize them with some music. Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZwitterND wrote:
Gnarly! Now you need to hook them up to a control board and synchronize them with some music. Laughing


I was actually thinking of that last night, then thought of how much of a current surge it would be to get all of them up at the same time (9 x 6-7 amps)!!! I'd brown out my whole neighborhood....
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just when I thought I'd seen it all (details differences on Jacketed K manifolds).... An upside down VW logo on the aluminum casting.

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This is on an early version that I am restoring (one on the right), the VW logo is upside down. This is a cast-in detail, not a stamp so it makes you wonder how this could even happen.

Normal one is on the left.
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ZwitterND
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
Just when I thought I'd seen it all (details differences on Jacketed K manifolds).... An upside down VW logo on the aluminum casting.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is on an early version that I am restoring (one on the right), the VW logo is upside down. This is a cast-in detail, not a stamp so it makes you wonder how this could even happen.

Normal one is on the left.


It was cast in Australia.... Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
NINE '46-'49 semaphores. Is there anywhere else on the planet where there are this many of these early sems on one place????


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YEAH -Photoshop Land - There's TONS OF 'EM Razz
How many do ya need? Question he he he... Laughing Arrow
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A clacker semaphore I refurbed for someone. I made an adapter with a dash bulb at the bottom that mimics the dash bulb. Interesting that the arm bulb does not flash, but the dash bulb does.

I have another set I am restoring and will post pics of the pin and contact setup, it is pretty complex for that era.



{Dee Snyder's "House of Hair" was on the radio and I was enjoying some loud music....}



Link

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Seb67
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Nice work on that one....
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ZwitterND
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not quite sync'd with the tunage
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a technique that I have used to repair badly rusted taillight housings with perforation. Now, I'll agree, you might be able to throw a "ghetto" flag here, as this is not an all-steel repair. But it is not body filler, it is an epoxy that is very durable and will not react to moisture and stress. It is not as strong as steel, and this housing is probably pushing the limits of this technique a bit as the perforation is bad and had eaten away metal all the way to the housing edge. But I have had good success with this and perhaps it will be of use to others.

This is the worst of a pair of heat taillight housings that I took in as part of a deal to get a good set of semaphores. I used this technique on the other housing which was not nearly as bad and had good luck with it.

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Very typical housing rust, as the lens and housing seals leak and water collects inside the housing.


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Some hard aluminum oxide blasting and we can see the real extend of the problem. I know media blasting may not be at everyone's disposal, but you really have to do this to see what you really have to work with and insure the epoxy gets a good bite on the bare metal. If you try this without media blasting, it will likely not hold up well. Wire brushing, grinding, etc is no substitute for media blasting. Find a shop who can do this for you.

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Again, this one is pretty bad and really stretching the limits of this kind of repair technique.


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So here you go. Apply some ordinary masking tape to the outside of the housing over the perforations. Press it down firmly and into the contours.

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I mix up some JB Weld epoxy and apply it to the inside of the housing with a glue bush, making sure it permeates well into the perforations.

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Let it cure and remove the tape.

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I use a file and a foam sanding block to knock down the high spots on the outside of the housing.


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Then I mix up some more JB Weld and brush on a thin layer over the outside repaired area.


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On the inside, I brush on another layer over the area where the perforations are.


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Once that has cured, I first use a 120 grit mesh sanding sheet and a knife file along the edge to shape the surface. Then I use the foam block, first a course grit, then a fine grit, then some 400 grit paper on a small block (important to use a block, just like body work, your fingers behind the paper will not give you uniform surface). In the pic above, I have just started finishing the left side of the repaired area. You can see the lip on the edge is re-formed.

This repair is not as good as steel... but it is not a "bondo fix" either. It will hold up to normal use on a car. Drop it on the floor, or stab the area with a pick and it will break... so be careful with it.

I'll post pics tomorrow with it finished and primered....
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yeshua4me
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is such a cool repair technique. Thanks for sharing!
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished and primed.....

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
Just when I thought I'd seen it all (details differences on Jacketed K manifolds).... An upside down VW logo on the aluminum casting.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is on an early version that I am restoring (one on the right), the VW logo is upside down. This is a cast-in detail, not a stamp so it makes you wonder how this could even happen.

Normal one is on the left.

Did you check for the hidden Honus Wagner imprint? Question ...[upside down, of course] Idea Wink Razz <j/k> Razz
Seriously, though John you are a true artist of reclamation. Nice work on the tail light housing! Cool - [I've got a couple that could use your level of finessing.] Idea Wink Arrow
Enjoy the weekend...and have a Happy Independence Day,
GRR
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What we imagine in our minds becomes our world. Thatís just one of many things I have learned from water."
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back on page 14 I was modifying a late oval convertible decklid to make it a split 'vert lid. That work continued tonight. The old rectangular spring perch was removed, the hinge frame badly rusted and torn underneath it.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Next order of business was to fab a new triangle plate . I studied an original one and realized they were way more complex than I had thought. I took a lot of measurements on paper, then "flattened" the design and scribed it on some 16 gauge steel. Cut out with carbide discs and was pretty happy with the way it came out.


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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next was that wire retainer indentation that is not present on the split lids (see the camparo pics on page 14). I cut a piece of 22 gauge steel and trimmed it to fit. LOTS of grinding with the edge of a carbide disc here, and a grinding disc. One of the tabs was flattened into the cutout, and the other had broken off, but I was able to fill it with MIG metal and grind it smooth.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last thing will be to reconstruct the "long tab" below the spring plate. You can see I drilled 2 spot welds out and removed the short one already in the pic above.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished the final mods to the decklid tonight. I did 6 plug welds on the spring bracket and then ground them down (not ground down in the pic below)

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I fabricated the "long" tab under the spring and welded it on:

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And here it is, an oval 'vert lid converted with all of the details of a split Beetle decklid. I added the wire retainers between the spring and the pope's nose also.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulation John.
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