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Single Stock carb on a 1915...experience from successful use
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citroen
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you are using that dist make sure both sides of the vacuum advance is good they were great for going bad thats why most of them were replaced because at the time they were used it cost more to buy the advance then a 009 dist. I may be wrong but i think the 34 had a 26 mm venturi. I use a chrome air cleaner but i thing the stock is better i just dont have one.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 34 is probably the bore of the throttle plate.

I agree that the duel vacuum cans go bad readily and are hard to find replacements for. Unless you need the DVDA for smog then go with a SVDA.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this one IS a DVDA then...? OK, I certainly don't need it here for any inspections(we are a fairly "free" state!)....

I guess I will try and locate a good used SVDA then, especially if I have issue with the 009/34 pict combo as so many do.
I'll give it a go with the 009 straight away, and see what happens!
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, got the carb cleaned up and rebuilt over the last few days(not much time available). Found my paint for the intake tonight as got it sprayed.

It's Ready for install, just waiting to locate a bigger main..(Dennis recommended a 135?). Anyone have a 135 laying around? LOL.... no, really.... lol < Oh, and a throttle return spring.... This one is MIA..
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citroen
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carb looks good spray jet is in the right location. you should be able to find someone with a set of jet drills to drill the jet that is what we use sorry we are not closer ALSO CHECK THE plastic piece over the float you have it on backwards the float will not operate correct turned that way

Last edited by citroen on Thu May 24, 2012 8:58 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GI Joe wrote:
AIt's Ready for install, just waiting to locate a bigger main..(Dennis recommended a 135?). Anyone have a 135 laying around?
What size main do you have now? One step larger is usually enough.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up Dennis.... I put the float retainer in the way it appeared on the diagram... Wasn't sure though! I'll turn it around.

@Wildthings: This carb has a 127.5 in it currently. I imagine I will probably get a couple jets and try each one till I get it right. I start with this one, just to see what it does, then adjust from there. Don't want to blow more fuel through than needed, but also want to know It's a 1915 back there! LOL..


Ya'll thoughts on the preheat tubes...??? I've read many that say they are a MUST, yet another source says lose them, as long as I have a "crows foot" intake..... Don't wanna cut 'em off, tilll i'm sure...

I guess i can run it with them on(not connected, and see if icing is an issue, then either cut 'em off, or go ahead and connect them if needed..

Getting excited about the potential for Our Thing running smooth.... Took a run for some carb cleaner, and spray bedliner(for the TJ) this evening and just got frustrated with the leading carb syndrome...... Driving me nuts!!!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine size doesn't always effect jetting that much, while the cam you choose can have big affects.

There is more to carb heat than just eliminating icing. Carb heat also helps with atomization which in turn helps with drivability and gas mileage.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need the intake heat with that carb, period.
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citroen
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i do use the carb heat my runners are open make sure the hole is open in the headers
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not hijacking - well maybe a little. And bear with typos - sitting outside the camper and its a bit dark. I am needing to do something similar as the OP excpet not in a thing.
Here's what I will be starting with - rebuilt 34 PICT 3, 1914 stock cam. Heads were stock with moderate porting. One is toast due to a dropped valve. So - my dilemma is to get a replacement head to match the ported one, get a pair of stock, get a better set. Have 1.4 ratio rockers, but can go back to stock easily. Probably use a bugpack hideaway.

The engine will never see much above 4500 RPMs. Street use only - going into a show car that will probably be a few hundred pounds heavier than a stock bug. Looking for comments/suggestion.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suggest you start your Own thread Rolling Eyes , as far as comments.... I'll refrain, for now! Laughing ...

No, really, what's your question? It sounds to me like you're asking for head advice?? Or are you looking for jetting combos?

Clarify man!!!
Is this for the Woody?? (awesome ride right there!!!) Wink
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ever read Mark's tech info on preheater mods?
http://carburetorclinic.com/heatriser_tech.html

Prettty good info-modify one preheater side to go into the exhause header 4 into one collector so that hot gases are pulled through the intake like a stock exhaust.

Aircooled.net also recommends this mod and offers it on headers purchased through them.
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GI - no - not the woodie - something even more nuts that I am just starting to build on paper for now. I debated my own thread but what I am after is pretty much the same thing as what the OP is looking to do here, 1914 with single carb. A lot of jetting is already covered. Will just hang loose for now. And thanks for the compliment.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

74 Thing wrote:
Ever read Mark's tech info on preheater mods?
http://carburetorclinic.com/heatriser_tech.html
.


Wow... great read! Very detailed and well thought out/explained....

I'll have to let the wheels turn a bit on how I could modify the TTS split system for this to function...

Thank you for the link!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GI Joe wrote:
74 Thing wrote:
Ever read Mark's tech info on preheater mods?
http://carburetorclinic.com/heatriser_tech.html
.


Wow... great read! Very detailed and well thought out/explained....

I'll have to let the wheels turn a bit on how I could modify the TTS split system for this to function...

Thank you for the link!


Assuming you have a bend in your tail pipe run the manifold heat return into the outside of bend at an acute angle. The exhaust gases due to centrifugal force will be hugging the outside of the bend, and because you are already right at the tail pipe opening the pressures will be the lowest in the system. Very similar but maybe even a little better than what VW did on the Type1.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it be viable to keep the connection on the "header" portion, say just before the muffler? Would that still give a good "pull"?

So something like this??
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Leave Driv side connection alone as the "pusher", and move Pass side connection before the muffler as the "puller".
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rsorak
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would suggest putting it in the topmost pipe, the one exiting the muffler.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The further down stream you put it the less back pressure there is going to be. The tail pipe would likely be the best place. Use as sharp of an entry into the tail pipe as your can and since your tail pipe is straight run your waste pipe out into the middle of the tail pipe.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So more like This..(dark Green)..?
I can see it being more of a draft or "pull" out here.. makes sense..
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I never noticed the stock VW mufflers having the heat tube run so far away from the head. That link a few posts back was Very informative and certainly has me thinking!! I guess it's back to my welder for another Mod to the TTS system!!
this should be the last thing to do, and then I can mount them up!! I sure hope they sound right for me!!! LOL...
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