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D/A/N
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Joined: September 18, 2011
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Location: 11222
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 Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 8:05 pm Post subject: Some Kadron set-up questions |
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Installed dual Kads w/ stock EMPI linkage over the weekend but I have some remaining questions:
1. Where do you guys run your fuel lines? I've seen pics of some set ups that have the T-fitting mounted to the top of the linkage. My T-fitting is currently just laying around behind the distributor and will obviously flop around.
2. I have a Tri-Mil "pea-shooter" style exhaust and am running heater boxes. I ran fresh air hose straight from the shroud down to the heater boxes on both sides. Is this okay or is there a "neater" way that will more fully seal the openings in the breast plate tin?
3. I have my heat risers blocked off. Do I still install my heat-riser tin or do I just let the blocked tops poke into the engine compartment through the tin? |
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clonebug
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Joined: January 29, 2005
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Location: NW Washington
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| Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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Here is how I did my kadrons when I was running them.
_________________
| Glenn wrote: | | I taught my son when he was 15 how to rebuild a 1600DP. That was 6 6 years ago and it currently has 45,000 miles on it in my friend's Beetle. |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
(Now with Water/Alcohol Injection)
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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Doodoob
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Joined: April 22, 2009
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Location: Spokane, WA
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| Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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| I mounted my T on the back of the fan shroud. My Fuel pressure regulator is on the firewall left of the shroud. |
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D/A/N
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Joined: September 18, 2011
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| Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:37 am Post subject: |
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| clonebug wrote: | Here is how I did my kadrons when I was running them.
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That's kind of an awesome set-up.....running all the fuel lines behind the shroud seems tidy. Even though I have a doghouse shroud I bet I could do that with some mods.
Is it essential then, that the T-fitting is mounted to the shroud or at least to something? I assume so, it just hasn't been obvious to me where to put it. |
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esde
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Joined: October 20, 2007
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Location: central rust belt
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| Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:10 am Post subject: |
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Hiding the fuel line back there cleans up the engine compartment, but there are 2 things I don't like about it. You have several connections that are now hard to get to, tighten, loosen, see if they are leaking. Also, you have 2 of those crappy plastic filters directly over #1 and #3 exhaust. I wouldn't run that in my car, personally. I have a brass fuel tee bolted to the top of the center linkage pivot, and used hard line to run within 6" of each carb. When/ if I go to an electric pump, I'll be able to get rid of a lot of the hose in the back.
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esde
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Location: central rust belt
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| Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:13 am Post subject: |
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| PS, it is ok to swap your Kadron manifolds side to side and run the balance hose in back of the fan shroud. Also use fuel hose, not heater, the fuel vapor will soften the heater hose. |
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D/A/N
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Joined: September 18, 2011
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| Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:43 am Post subject: |
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| esde wrote: | | PS, it is ok to swap your Kadron manifolds side to side and run the balance hose in back of the fan shroud. Also use fuel hose, not heater, the fuel vapor will soften the heater hose. |
I do have the balance tube behind the shroud. I'm using the black 1/4" hose that came with my carbs.
Do you have a better pic and/or some instructions for how to mount the T-fitting to the linkage? |
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esde
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Posts: 797
Location: central rust belt
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| Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:52 am Post subject: |
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| Good, the other pic shows red heater hose in front. Works, but will get soft and fail. I'll get a better picture. It's just a 3/16 tee with a mounting hole for a bolt. Might even be a spare rear brake line tee, I can't remember. It bolts to a hole that was already in the top of the linkage mount, I bent the hard line to fit tightly against the shroud. |
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andk5591 
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Joined: August 29, 2005
Posts: 8888
Location: State College, PA
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| Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 4:42 pm Post subject: Re: Some Kadron set-up questions |
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| D/A/N wrote: | Installed dual Kads w/ stock EMPI linkage over the weekend but I have some remaining questions:
1. Where do you guys run your fuel lines? I've seen pics of some set ups that have the T-fitting mounted to the top of the linkage. My T-fitting is currently just laying around behind the distributor and will obviously flop around. |
I personally like running the lines behind the shroud. Metal is nicer, but its hard to do with the engine installed. The bottom line is do whatever makes sense to you - not rocket science. Since I dont run a balance tube, I like to have my manifold ports facing the rear of the car - They are plugged with screw in plugs, but when I want to synch with my manometer, it makes it real easy.
| Quote: |
2. I have a Tri-Mil "pea-shooter" style exhaust and am running heater boxes. I ran fresh air hose straight from the shroud down to the heater boxes on both sides. Is this okay or is there a "neater" way that will more fully seal the openings in the breast plate tin? |
Get a piece of fuel line that is as long as the circumfirance of the heater hose hole is. Make a cut lengthwise so you have a a pice of tube with w slit. Slip it around the hole in the tin - trim the ends so that you get a clean joint where the meet. Then slip your hose through. Take your time and it can look real nice.
| Quote: |
3. I have my heat risers blocked off. Do I still install my heat-riser tin or do I just let the blocked tops poke into the engine compartment through the tin? |
Its cosmetic more than anything - the clean way it to cut off the heat risers from the Tri-Mill and weld them up. Then use a tin that doesnt use risers. Otherwise, its really a matter of what you like cosmetically.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1776.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard project at wife's request and your gonna die when you see this one. |
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D/A/N
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Joined: September 18, 2011
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 4:01 am Post subject: Re: Some Kadron set-up questions |
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| andk5591 wrote: | | D/A/N wrote: | Installed dual Kads w/ stock EMPI linkage over the weekend but I have some remaining questions:
1. Where do you guys run your fuel lines? I've seen pics of some set ups that have the T-fitting mounted to the top of the linkage. My T-fitting is currently just laying around behind the distributor and will obviously flop around. |
I personally like running the lines behind the shroud. Metal is nicer, but its hard to do with the engine installed. The bottom line is do whatever makes sense to you - not rocket science. Since I dont run a balance tube, I like to have my manifold ports facing the rear of the car - They are plugged with screw in plugs, but when I want to synch with my manometer, it makes it real easy.
| Quote: |
2. I have a Tri-Mil "pea-shooter" style exhaust and am running heater boxes. I ran fresh air hose straight from the shroud down to the heater boxes on both sides. Is this okay or is there a "neater" way that will more fully seal the openings in the breast plate tin? |
Get a piece of fuel line that is as long as the circumfirance of the heater hose hole is. Make a cut lengthwise so you have a a pice of tube with w slit. Slip it around the hole in the tin - trim the ends so that you get a clean joint where the meet. Then slip your hose through. Take your time and it can look real nice.
| Quote: |
3. I have my heat risers blocked off. Do I still install my heat-riser tin or do I just let the blocked tops poke into the engine compartment through the tin? |
Its cosmetic more than anything - the clean way it to cut off the heat risers from the Tri-Mill and weld them up. Then use a tin that doesnt use risers. Otherwise, its really a matter of what you like cosmetically. |
I forgot to thank you for these responses. I've already done what you mentioned in #2 and am working on getting my neighbor (a welder) to help me out with the 3rd. Good ideas overall. Many thanks. |
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andk5591
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Joined: August 29, 2005
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Location: State College, PA
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 4:44 am Post subject: |
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As far as the tin goes. I have used a pop rivetted sheet metal patch to fill preheat hose holes and if you do it neatly and then repaint the tin, it can almost look factory.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1776.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard project at wife's request and your gonna die when you see this one. |
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clonebug
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Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 901
Location: NW Washington
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:17 am Post subject: |
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| esde wrote: | | Hiding the fuel line back there cleans up the engine compartment, but there are 2 things I don't like about it. You have several connections that are now hard to get to, tighten, loosen, see if they are leaking. Also, you have 2 of those crappy plastic filters directly over #1 and #3 exhaust. |
Those crappy filters gave me no problems for 5 years.....YMMV
If you are running them in a bug without cooling tin sealing the area in the back you have bigger problems than a plastic filter to work on.
I ran them in a buggy and had absolutely no fuel problems the whole time I did so.
The fuel line also worked well with the doghouse fan and I supported the line with clamps on the cooling flap bolts and the oil cooler bolt. I also wrapped the clamp area with a piece of fuel line to make it fit in the clamp better. Nothing could move or vibrate. All the lines are steel the whole length bent around the shroud to the front to within 6 inches of the stock pump.
Also...that picture is from 2003-2004 while I was building my buggy. It has many miles and many changes since then. 
| esde wrote: | I wouldn't run that in my car, personally. I have a brass fuel tee bolted to the top of the center linkage pivot, and used hard line to run within 6" of each carb. When/ if I go to an electric pump, I'll be able to get rid of a lot of the hose in the back.
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_________________
| Glenn wrote: | | I taught my son when he was 15 how to rebuild a 1600DP. That was 6 6 years ago and it currently has 45,000 miles on it in my friend's Beetle. |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
(Now with Water/Alcohol Injection)
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: September 18, 2011
Posts: 712
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:03 am Post subject: |
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| andk5591 wrote: | | As far as the tin goes. I have used a pop rivetted sheet metal patch to fill preheat hose holes and if you do it neatly and then repaint the tin, it can almost look factory. |
I wound up getting a breast plate tin from CB Performance w/o the preheat hole.
Next time I have reason to take my exhaust off, I'll get a friend to cut off the heat risers and weld them up so I can get the tin w/ no holes or cutouts.
On another note, I've been having problems w/ my stock linkage....popped off on the highway almost giving me a heart attack, seems sticky, is very sensitive to engine temps, and requires fine adjustment twice a week.
I've seen a couple of posts where you mention a mod you did to install the stock spring on the Scat linkage.....do you have a pic of the mod? I got the Scat and want to try using the stock spring. That eliminates the need for a spring on the throttle arms, right? |
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andk5591
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Joined: August 29, 2005
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Location: State College, PA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:51 am Post subject: |
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It's pretty simple. Made an arm to attach the spring to the linkage at the right carb heim joint out of a sink stopper linkage. Drilled a hole on the brace that connects to the shroud and that was it.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1776.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard project at wife's request and your gonna die when you see this one. |
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Max Welton
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Posts: 8120
Location: Black Forest, CO
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| Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:05 am Post subject: |
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Kadrons already have a filter in the inlet. No real need for an additional filter before the carb.
Max
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The only thing more expensive than cheap parts is mixing cheap parts with stupidity. |
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bartman
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Location: palatka, fl
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| Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Here's another one, with all rubber lines. My lines run in front of the shroud but the clamps are oriented so they can be accessed with a nut driver with the engine in place.
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bajaman73
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| Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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All impressive!! Mine are all (fuel/equalizer lines and T fitting) are floating around behind the shroud 
_________________
1973 Baja aka: "Booger" Weekend Driver/Toy
Stock 1600
1972 Transporter - Currently in the garage
1700 w/Dual Dellortos
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-1715.png]Click to view image[/URL] |
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