Weber 44 IDF'S high idle

DUELLER · Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 4:31 pm Post subject: Weber 44 IDF'S high idle

Looking for a little help. Fresh rebuild on the 44's, ultra sonic, soda blast, clean clean clean, the works. Cant get them to idle below 1550. They run great besides that. it seems only one carb is the culprit. any ideas??

Yes i did set the floats to 10.5
55 idles
f-11
140 main
185 air

the motor is a 2054
8.9:1
1.25
15/8 header
019 set at 28deg
ported 40x35
this jetting seem right? or could i get more out of it?

thanks

DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:05 pm Post subject:

When you rebuilt the carbs did you check to make sure the throttle shafts weren't bent? Are your air bypass screws all closed? Are you sure you have good seals at both ends of the manifolds? Are your carbs synched?
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DUELLER · Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:17 pm Post subject:

Didn't think to check the shafts. i tried to put everything back the way it came out one carb at a time. The only exception is i added sealed bearings after seeing what the originals looked like. Bypass screws are closed both sides both carbs. Took a quick file to the manifolds to knock down any high spots before install. yes the carbs are synched up. do you think it might be worth swaping the butterflys from side to side? maybe i got them on the wrong side on re-assembly or would it matter. These are the old Italian with the cam style accelerator pump.

DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:42 pm Post subject:

In general you don't want to remove the butterflies unless you absolutely have to.
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udidwht · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 4:38 am Post subject:

DUELLER · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:50 am Post subject:

I didn't have a choice on removing the butterflys as the throttle shaft bearings were absolute garbage. so out to the garage to flop the butterflys and loosen the shaft nuts to check for binding. Any body want to check my jetting? Local shops evidently have jets made of gold (why else would they charge so much)so i want to get it really close before i go buy them. Done alot of searching and cant find this topic covered. Cant be a first, could it?

udidwht · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:32 pm Post subject:

Contact John at Aircooled.net. I believe he can offer swapping of jets without the need of additional purchase.

Dale M. · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:42 pm Post subject:

Typical jet price is about $4 a jet.....

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=73401&Search.x=0&Search.y=0

Hmmm... Seems to have gone up a whole .25 cents since last time I looked...

You jetting is pretty close... Maybe drop mains one size...

Anything below 2500/3000 rpm is mostly run on idle circuit and that is were idles speed screws and mixture screws make all the difference (55 idles are pretty common) ... You problem is below the "transition" so don't worry about mains or air or emulsion tubes for now....

Dale
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Lives his life vicariously through his own self...
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.

All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

DUELLER · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:37 pm Post subject:

Ok update time. Went out and swapped the butterflys and got it to drop to 1425rpm from 1600rpm. But that"s it. The linkage is disconnected and the idle screws are not even touching. Nobody around here really works on webers so i'm relying on TheSamba Weber guys to help. It has got to be something stupid i'm overlooking. Mr Harney? John at A/C? Little help please.

Dale, You thinking 135's on the main? I tried 130's so so. 140's ripped pretty good, just trying to get the most.

66brm · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:56 pm Post subject:

Air has to be getting in there to support that sort of idle RPM, spray around the manifolds and carbs with some starter spray and see if the RPM changes, with your butterflys shut completely and the air bypasses closed off there is no way for it to get enough air. Were these setup for single use previously? Holes drilled in the butterflies?
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Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

Dale M. · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:27 am Post subject:

DUELLER · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:05 am Post subject:

The air bypasses are closed and the butterflys are intact. if i take a LED flashlight and shine it down the the carb you can see a little light through the sides of the butterflys at the flat spots but thats it. The gaskets are mint i have already checked that.

Dale,

I believe the problem is in my idle circuit so i was trying to get my mains figured out. I have f-11's, don't they react a little differently than f-7's? In all the searches i have done looking for "High Idle" i think i read that.

DarthWeber · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:22 am Post subject:

DUELLER · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:01 pm Post subject:

Crap are you saying thats not typical Shocked

Its where the 78degree bevels meet at the shaft, all the rest of it is fairly tight. Both carbs are the same way. Now what drive it as is? Would new butterflys be in order? Brick wall

Dale M. · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:34 pm Post subject:

esde · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:41 pm Post subject:

Having just rebuilt my Dellorto 36's, and having to take down the shaft- butterfly- bearing assembly, I will add the following as things to look out for.
On the dellorto's the edge of the butterfly is bevelled slightly, so that it closes the edge seats 'perfectly' in the bore. If I installed the butterfly upside down, the bevel wouldn't match the bore, and it would never close tightly. The Weber's might be different, but check. Also, the holes for the butterfly were not for location, just to clamp them into place. I found that I had to loosely slide the butterflies into their slots, and then carefully close the throttle shaft. It took a bit of prying and moving to get the butterflies positioned so that the throttle was closed tightly and the butterflies sealed well all of the way around. Tighten the screws a bit, check, snug the screws all the way, check again. Don't forget to peen the screws over, don't want one of them getting eaten..
Anyway, this is what played out on the Dellorto's, sounds to me like you might need to do sort of the same thing on your Webers.

DUELLER · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:34 pm Post subject:

Ok, took it for a run with the Mrs. and have come to the conclusion that if you want the motor to idle lower you need to remember to put the return spring back on before you leave the house after adjusting the butterflys.

still idles high with spring back on. I've noticed that if i lift up on the linkage slightly to"force" the butterflys closed the idle goes down. does anyone know if the 78degree stamp on the butterflys faces up to the inlet of the carb or down to the outlet? maybe they are up side down?

66brm · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:45 pm Post subject:

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Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

DUELLER · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 4:28 pm Post subject:

Thanks 66. I can just barely see the 80degree stamped on the butterfly, so i will go mess with it more. Anybody have an educated guess on my mains and airs?

66brm · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 4:37 pm Post subject:

As Dale said, I wouldn't worry about the other jets yet till you get your idle sorted
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

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