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Roy's Manx Restoration
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:42 pm    Post subject: Roy's Manx Restoration Reply with quote

Due to compressors dieing I took a break from Rick's green Manx and started work on my buddy Roy's Manx. I did a little thread on "mold making" with his Manx. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=500792&highlight=mold It was quite beat up and had some gel coat issues.

Here is what the body looked like when he left it at my house. (chassis is mine)

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I did the major body repair. (missing fiberglass due to pole and Manx meeting)

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Roy's Manx also has an issue I had not seen before. Whoever shot the gel coat into the mold when the body was originally made put too much gel coat in. I some places like the lowest parts of the mold which when done are the tops, where 1/4"+ thick. Since gel coat on its own has no structural strength it will crack over time.

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Especially where it had stress on it like drilled holes.

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It is hard to see but where the paint is sanded off has cracks as well.

So I had to sand all the areas with cracked gel coat down to the fiberglass.

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To repair these areas after I sanded down to glass you need to fill with glass cloth or mat depending upon how deep they are.

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This also shows the underlying fiberglass damage that you want to address because it will come back if you only fill it with "Bondo".

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Start by laying up layers of cloth/mat a little higher than the depth of the damage. (I used 4 oz cloth since it is very easy to work with and lays out well over curves) Also do not worry about removing old paint at this time. It gives you a guide when you are sanding and helps to keep the repair area fair. (don't worry about wetting all the cloth out, only the stuff that covers the damaged areas.)

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I know it looks like it has some kind of disease. The cloth gives the cracked damaged glass some structure and strength.

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I then sanded the areas fair. I use 80grit to take it down level quickly and then finish with 120grit.

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You then sand all the old paint off. (my least favorite part) You want to get it all off since you most times have no idea what kind of paint the PO used and you want to make sure after all your work you have a good surface for the new paint/top coat to adhere to. This way you should have no compatibility issues. (I also had some heat pump issues, you can see the old one ready to go to the scrapper)

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I then sprayed the whole body with Duratec gray base primer (high build). I do not know why they call it "gray" since it is tan. This takes care of the "pin holes" and dips.

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I then shot it with Duratec surface primer to smooth everything out. I will then sand with 400-600 grit before I top coat it.

Here is another example of using a mold to repair a damaged or missing part.

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You could shape it without the mold but it makes for a better easier repair IMHO.

Vince
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crack monkey
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so you wet out the cracked area then cut off the excess and sand smooth from there?

I have lots of exposed strands on my buggy that I will need to take care of. These threads really help
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crack monkey
Thanks, you can just sand the non wet out areas off. No need to cut them.

Vince
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vince - Thank you for taking the time to detail how you make your repairs. You make it look easy. I don't have any glass repair to do now, but I know if/when I do, I'll have your threads for reference.

Just for curiosity, how much time did you have in this body to take it from the first pic to the last?

Scott
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73SpeedBuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I'm very curious about the time investment here.
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott
Thanks for the kind words.
The pictures are over a 2 month period.

Scott and Adam
I have about 75-80 hours into the body as you see it. This does not include resin curing time. Most of the time was in sanding off the old paint and prepping for glassing. The actual glassing time was pretty low maybe 6-8 hours. Actual painting time, maybe 1-2 hours.


Vince
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didget69
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vince - looks great!

Will the finish-coat color be paint or gelcoat?
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FarmerJohn
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do some really great work Vince Applause Applause
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scotth17
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is some excellent body restoration! Good job!
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super work! Really an amazing transformation. Thanks for sharing the specific details on materials, techniques, etc. Maybe this thread should be a sticky.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Vince got pretty "sticky" doing all this Laughing Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FarmerJohn wrote:
I think Vince got pretty "sticky" doing all this Laughing Laughing


I'm ~3+ hours away from him & it makes me feel itchy... Laughing

bryan
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bryan
Thanks for the kind words. I am going to use AWLCRAFT 2000 Metallic urethane paint. Once it cures completely (about a week) it is extremely durable and can be repaired pretty easily, if by some off chance it gets damaged.

John, Scott, BL3Manx
Thanks for the kind words.

John, Bryan
You got that right!! Shocked I was sticky, itchy and crunchy. (even though you do not feel it while you are sanding, the next morning when you wake up your eyes are "crunchy" with fiberglass dust)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vince,

Please come sand my Deserter......

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff
I can't stop laughing!! Laughing Laughing I have to say that sanding is my least favorite part of all of this, especially the inside of the tub.

I was just thinking that I should go into using different grits, sanding pads and wet sanding. I learned the hard way making surfboards that using too low a grit can ruin your day quickly, and using too high a grit can take all day. There definitely is an art to sanding, it has taken me a while to get over the learning curve.

Your Deserter is moving along nicely!! You already have it guide coat. If you were closer I would not mind sanding the guide coat. You have done all the hard work already.

You also have to be careful when you are buffing/polishing out gel coat.

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The buffer caught and bounced into my arm.

Vince
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting excited to see the new color.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

surfnc wrote:


John, Bryan
You got that right!! Shocked I was sticky, itchy and crunchy. (even though you do not feel it while you are sanding, the next morning when you wake up your eyes are "crunchy" with fiberglass dust)


...you forgot to add 'flaky'.... Laughing

I'm still leaning towards gel coating my buggy body - I'm still in 'sticky, itchy land' on it right now. And some 'flaky' from removing the old metal flake -

bryan
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update 7/17

Roy came down last week and we mocked up everything and drilled holes before I did final sand on the surface primer.

So today I shot the Awlcraft 2000 Mid Atlantic Blue Metallic paint.

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I did get one run that I need to address and there is some "dirt" that I may wait to address till the paint has completely cured in 2 weeks.

Vince
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look's awesome. Can't wait to see it in person and start putting it together. I don't think the pictures show the work you did to get it to this point. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vince:

Impressive work on the tub! But I'd suggest that you dial back the air pressure at the paint gun, or hold the gun further away, as it appears that after you did all the fiberglass repairs, you blew 4 big holes in the sides of the tub... Laughing

Nice color choice -

bryan
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