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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Fan access Reply with quote

Alright, so I identified the clattering noise my engine is making - it's the fan. With the alt belt off I can reach behind the engine and feel a very small amount of play in that large bolt on the fan.

Now, getting to it.

I was checking out the alternator and wondering if the alternator would just pull straight out with the fan but the filler tube/alt stand is in the way. I have a feeling changing the alternator on this thing is about 100x harder than it would be on any other car in the world. Is there a way to get to the fan without doing something ridiculous - like pulling the whole engine out?
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get a 36mm socket on the fan nut by reaching around behind the shroud. Pull your alternator pulley apart and use the flat sides of the inner pulley hub with an open end wrench to loosen/tighten.

Oh, and jam a screwdriver in the decklid hinge to keep the decklid from closing and hitting your head or pinching your arm.
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the bolt is tight, but something else may be wrong in there. Is it pretty much impossible to get to?
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also noticed the one of the 4 screws that hold that circular metal plate to the fan shroud either shook loose and fell out or wasn't there at all. It's the one at the bottom right - that's also impossible to get to.
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1972super2110
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to remove the generator/alternator ( whichever you have ), the whole thing comes out as one unit and you'll need an impact wrench to get the bastard... I mean the 36mm nut off. You could try replacing the little bolt on the plate and see if thats whats making the noise. The little bolt can be gotten to, you just have to be full of piss and vinegar! Youll get it
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reach around and grab a hold of the fan with one hand, then grab the pulley with the other (Nut Tightened). Twist, shake wiggle the fan and pulley. There should not be any movement between the two. With everything right it should just one giant piece. If you feel movement, time to fix what is wrong.

If the 36MM nut is loose, there is no way to get it tighten enough with the engine in the car (Unless an impact will fit). This nut has to be TIGHT 47FT/LB

IF you need to fix a problem, it will probably quicker (I know easier) if you just bite the bullet and pull the engine. Especially if you have the thermostat and everything ic complete
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it needs to come out
remove the housing , all of it.
set it on the floor
and repair ALL the damage.
be that bad ALT bearings. bad shims or missing
bad , cracked parts.
then you open the bentleys read the page called how to set the shim clearance
at the rear fan lip to back side of the base flange.
OR ?
if just loose, you buy a 36mm 1/2" drive socket (my Great neck brand fits prefect)
it is long enough,
and just tighten it.
then you say but my fan spins
then i say stop it
and you say how
and i say, with a wrench on the flat side of rear pulley hub, see it?
there are 2 other ways but this one it tops.

way 2: the rear pulley jam trick , in the FSM bentleys, again. jam
screw driver in the pulley notches on gen pulley rear. see gen studs. it jams to them (works for setting belt pulley nut too.)

way3 , just bind up the belt with something.
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just checked the fan condition from the backside with the pulley belt on. There is no movement at all (other than spinning). With the belt off I can torque the fan back and forth and somewhat replicate the type of sound it's making but can't tell what it's doing to make that sound.
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1972super2110 wrote:
You need to remove the generator/alternator ( whichever you have ), the whole thing comes out as one unit and you'll need an impact wrench to get the bastard... I mean the 36mm nut off. You could try replacing the little bolt on the plate and see if thats whats making the noise. The little bolt can be gotten to, you just have to be full of piss and vinegar! Youll get it


I'm gonna try this piss and vinegar method first to see if that missing screw has something to do with it. It could be out of line and just brushing the tin or something. That would be consistent with the way it sounds while driving. At normal driving rpms there's no fan noise - only at idle or low rpm gear shifts.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To remove the fan, you'll need to remove the remainder of the bolts on the backing plate that mounts to the shroud. Remove the generator strap, and remove the two screws that hold the fan shroud to the cylinder head tin [one on each side of the shroud. Now stick your head under the hood and close it a bit, You may be able to lift the shroud up high enough and tilt it forward a bit to pull the generator and fan out. Don't yank on it to much because you don't want to damage the oil cooler under the shroud. If you can't get the shroud up high enough you may need to remove the decklid.

Once you get the generator and fan out, you can then figure out what is wrong with it.

Good luck

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bugnut68
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A stock motor can be pulled easily by one person... your life will much easier if you yank the engine out to deal with it, and that way you can check the condition of the fan hub while it's out. If it's cracked, doesn't matter how tight you can get it iwth the engine in the car, the fan is going to need to be replaced.
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugnut68 wrote:
A stock motor can be pulled easily by one person... your life will much easier if you yank the engine out to deal with it, and that way you can check the condition of the fan hub while it's out. If it's cracked, doesn't matter how tight you can get it iwth the engine in the car, the fan is going to need to be replaced.


I know, I know. The thought of pulling an engine out of a car is unthinkable to me though. I guess now that I'm a VW owner I better get used to the thought of pulling the engine out now and then.
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"At normal driving rpms there's no fan noise - only at idle or low rpm gear shifts."

At normal driving speeds parts tend to balance themselves out, escpecially, items like fans. It is generally the lower speeds where trouble first makes itself known. You first here rod bearings go bad at low RPM.

I bet you that I could make your fan noise go away in 10-15 minutes with simple tools, but that is not fixing the problem. When just about every person on this thread has given you the same answer, yet you choose to ignore, Big $$$ may be coming out of your pocket.

The idea is not to stop the noise, but to find what is causing it.
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
"At normal driving rpms there's no fan noise - only at idle or low rpm gear shifts."

At normal driving speeds parts tend to balance themselves out, escpecially, items like fans. It is generally the lower speeds where trouble first makes itself known. You first here rod bearings go bad at low RPM.

I bet you that I could make your fan noise go away in 10-15 minutes with simple tools, but that is not fixing the problem. When just about every person on this thread has given you the same answer, yet you choose to ignore, Big $$$ may be coming out of your pocket.

The idea is not to stop the noise, but to find what is causing it.


I'm not ignoring, but I have no ability to pull the engine out of the car. I don't have a lift and while the prospect of a car falling on top of me from a pile of cinder blocks and 2x4s didn't sound so bad when I was 20, at 40 it doesn't sound like a good time. I can't imagine what a mechanic will charge to pull and engine out of a car to fix something, assuming I could find one that would fix a VW. I'm weighing my options now.

With the belt attached I can't moved the fan at all. It's rock solid and I've tried to move it about 20 times. I'm not sure what it could be doing since there's no bearing in there or anything, it's just a solid shaft connected to the alternator, right?
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still in disbelief that replacing the fan or alternator requires an engine pull on a VW. Who designed this?
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

baccaruda wrote:
I'm still in disbelief that replacing the fan or alternator requires an engine pull on a VW. Who designed this?


You don't have to remove the engine to do this -- but it really isn't that big of a deal.


baccaruda wrote:
The thought of pulling an engine out of a car is unthinkable to me though. I guess now that I'm a VW owner I better get used to the thought of pulling the engine out now and then.


Yes.


baccaruda wrote:
I have no ability to pull the engine out of the car. I don't have a lift and while the prospect of a car falling on top of me from a pile of cinder blocks and 2x4s didn't sound so bad when I was 20, at 40 it doesn't sound like a good time.


You don't have to have a lift, or cinder blocks. All you need is a couple wrenches, a screwdriver, and a floor jack. I'm 44 and pulled my Bug engine last month, by myself. It takes an hour or so to do it that way, but I've pulled Bug and Bus engines several times over the years. You will need to jack up the back end of the car once you've got the engine sitting on the ground, and then you can put blocks/bricks etc. under the wheels. You don't ever have to get under the car when it's up on blocks (or whatever you use).
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:00 pm    Post subject: Fan Access Reply with quote

Okay I am writing you these instructions, but use them at your own risk. The assumption is that your fan is hitting the fan shrewd. The other assumption is that the fan is tight on the shaft. Did you put that missing screw back in? Are all four screws tight? If all of these steps are taken then here is trick one.
Loosen the strap that holds the generator to the stand. One 13mm bolt on the strap. With the engine running, first pull on the fan housing (towards you). Does the noise change? If not push on the fan housing towards the car. Doe the noise change? If you can either push or pull on the fan housing and the noise stops. Turn off engine, pull or push as needed then tighten down the strap to hold it in place.
Another trick is to cut a piece of shim material from an aluminum can. Loosen up the strap on the generator and place aluminum shim between generator and the stand. Tighten strap down and check for noise.
If you can’t get the noise to stop with one of these methods, you’ll have to pull it.
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baccaruda
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was able to replace the missing screw after much finagling. Everything is now tight, but the sound didn't change.

I'll give all that a shot. My gut now tells me there's loose tin. It rattles most at the lowest rpms (when the engine shakes the most). The fan is rock-solid tight to the alternator shaft. I poked around but couldn't find a loose piece making noise. I did find a couple pieces with screws missing, however.

I appreciate your suggestions.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

baccaruda wrote:
I'm still in disbelief that replacing the fan or alternator requires an engine pull on a VW. Who designed this?


Some dude named Porsche designed it. His name is on the back of a few other vehicles, so maybe you have heard of him?

I remember once taking an entire day to remove a shroud with the engine in the car. I can drop an engine in 30 minutes.
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bugnut68
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulling the motor is not that big a deal... if you have a decent sized roller floor jack, it's easy to balance the motor on it as you drop it down.

It's literally four bolts, a few wires, a fuel line and a throttle cable. With a completely stock motor, it's a total piece of cake.
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