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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 1:00 am Post subject: |
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the kit I was ganna get comes with a new crank _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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Max Welton Samba Member

Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 8119 Location: Black Forest, CO
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:33 am Post subject: |
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I would fully balance anything that goes in the engine, new or old.
Max _________________ The only thing more expensive than cheap parts is mixing cheap parts with stupidity. |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Okay did u mean by full roatery assemble? What all parts are included in that _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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Max Welton Samba Member

Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 8119 Location: Black Forest, CO
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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| volkswagen4life wrote: | | Okay did u mean by full roatery assemble? What all parts are included in that |
You mean the rotating assembly? Well ... everything that rotates with the crank.
So that's the crankshaft, flywheel, pressure plate, the bolts that hold the pressure plate on, the cam drive gear, the oil slinger splash guard (I think that's what it's called) and the pulley.
The shop will probably start by balancing the crank by itself, then add the fly wheel and balance the combination together, then attach each additional part until the entire assembly is balanced.
Reciprocating parts (the ones that move back and forth) include the pistons, rings, wrist-pins and clips, plus the connecting rods and bolts. Each piston should weigh the same amount as should each rod. The rods should also have the same end-to-end balance point (center of mass).
Note that any and all machine work needed should be completed before balancing.
Max _________________ The only thing more expensive than cheap parts is mixing cheap parts with stupidity. |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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that all sounds really expesive _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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have you had this stuff done before? do you about how much it'll cost _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 1062 Location: San Dimas
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Not too expensive...I paid $125 to get everything dynamically balanced. |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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Sweet so from everythung your telling me and evferything my brother is telling me I am looking at just over 300 for this rebuild (give or take a couple 20's) for oils and mineral spirits an a 30 gallon tub (cheapest way to make a parts cleaner) lol. Now since I am ganna be buying the rest of the parts and things soon what would you suggest for assembly lube? _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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Max Welton Samba Member

Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 8119 Location: Black Forest, CO
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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It's been a few years since I last had this done and local rates can obviously be different.
I think having the rotating assembly ballanced was a couple hundred dollars.
If you have a good scale (10th of a gram), you can do the pistons (with rings, pins and clips) yourself. The rods really should be done by a shop with a fixture that allows them to get the end-for-end balance right.
So you might be looking at $300. None of this work is VW specific, so you can shop around a bit.
The difference between a well balanced engine and one that is not is absolutely something you will feel. If you just bolt random parts together, you may or may not get lucky.
VW did not carefully balance each assembly. On an assembly line, that would take to much time. Instead they sorted rods and pistons into weight groups. Each engine got four pistons from a single weight group and four rods from one weight group.
And of course the original balance specs were laughably loose by today's standards. For example (and if I remember correctly), rods only needed to be within 5 grams of each other.
Now, if I were building engines to sell to people who wouldn't know the difference, I probably wouldn't do this. It would make my engines more expensive and I wouldn't be able to sell them to people shopping by price.
But I don't build engines to sell them. I only build an engine when I need one for myself. I can spend as much time as I need to get the engine I want.
Max _________________ The only thing more expensive than cheap parts is mixing cheap parts with stupidity. |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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So I have to have the new piston rings and everything the bearings before I have it balenced? How do you tell if you have an over sized bears or what size bearing I need? _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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I saw on the video I am useing as a walkthrough how to check the rod to crank bearings but he just tightened it with a wrench arn't you sapose to torque that down? _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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Max Welton Samba Member

Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 8119 Location: Black Forest, CO
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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| volkswagen4life wrote: | | So I have to have the new piston rings and everything the bearings before I have it balenced? How do you tell if you have an over sized bears or what size bearing I need? |
Each of the bearings are probably close enough to not make a significant difference.
You'll need to measure the crank journals and bearing saddles in the case to know what bearings you'll need. Depending on the condition of the case, it may need an align-bore, which will alter the size bearings needed.
Max _________________ The only thing more expensive than cheap parts is mixing cheap parts with stupidity. |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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I know but how do I measure it and what its been bored before _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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Just took my case heads crank and cam to the machine shop pilimanary check (through the gunk) the case and the heads look good the case needs alignbored and the crank needs some machining, the cam and lifters are pretty warn so I am ganna get new ones of those and new pistons and cylinder _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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volkswagen4life Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Walla Walla, Wa
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Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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So preparing for reassembly what should I be looking at eather buying or tough or trick things I will have to do. _________________ 78' Type 2 "little buggie"
74' Type 1
70' Type 3 square |
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Max Welton Samba Member

Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 8119 Location: Black Forest, CO
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