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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:28 am    Post subject: Shock Valving Reply with quote

First off, sorry about not posting this in the shocks sticky. It doesn't get much traffic and questions don't always get answered, so I decided to post it here.

I have done some searches, but have not found exactly what I am looking for. It always turns up saying I should get the KYB's or other popular shocks, but I would like to know what valving is good for a nearly shock front suspension. There are a lot more shocks out there than just KYB and Bilstein, so I was curious to see what else I could find. I saw on Woodsbuggy.com that several people run cheep gabriel shocks up front with good luck...thats just one example.

Anyways, if any of you can suggest a good valving, let me know.

Thanks!
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shred625
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Every manufacturer does the shock valving different so you are really asking a loaded question.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hm...so what your saying is that the numbers are not universal? For example, a Bilstein with 265/70 valving could have damping characteristics completely different than a KYB with a 265/70 valving?
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shred625
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty much
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having the same valving and using different weights of shock oil will make shock act differently.
Using different gas pressure will also affect how the shock works.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hu, You can always learn something new here.

I have seen F150 shocks used for 8 inch towers. Would those light duty pickup truck shocks seam about right?
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a light weight buggy that has very little weight on the front end and that you are not running to hard, (like contenuious whoops) a stock 1968 and later Bus type II oil filled rear shock would work with 8in shock towers.
Gas filled shock are great but even the KYB GR-2 are stiffer than a stock oil filled shock.
Depending on how you use the vehicle will kind of decide on what you need to use.

Realize that shocks for American made cars are most likely to have stiffer valving with supension that it used stock on them.
VW's are kind of unique with the trailing arm supension.

Using a rebuildable shocks such a FOX, FOA, and others you can dial in the valving and use different weights of oil and different nitrogen pressure for tuning your supension.
What ever shock you decide to use realize that they are a compromise.
Using bypass shocks that you can adjust for different conditions is the ultimate for now, but comes with a large price tag.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, it will be light in the front, but I also plan to drive it hard. It probably won't see to much blacktop. For that reason I would like a gas charged shock to keep the aeration down to a minimum. I don't want to pay anymore than what the KYBs go for.
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shred625
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks I was hoping I wasn't going to have to go there.

jsturtlebuggy wrote:
For a light weight buggy that has very little weight on the front end and that you are not running to hard, (like contenuious whoops) a stock 1968 and later Bus type II oil filled rear shock would work with 8in shock towers.
Gas filled shock are great but even the KYB GR-2 are stiffer than a stock oil filled shock.
Depending on how you use the vehicle will kind of decide on what you need to use.

Realize that shocks for American made cars are most likely to have stiffer valving with supension that it used stock on them.
VW's are kind of unique with the trailing arm supension.

Using a rebuildable shocks such a FOX, FOA, and others you can dial in the valving and use different weights of oil and different nitrogen pressure for tuning your supension.
What ever shock you decide to use realize that they are a compromise.
Using bypass shocks that you can adjust for different conditions is the ultimate for now, but comes with a large price tag.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found this interesting...mostly because it's different. I looked up those gabriel 81164 shocks were used on Chevrolet Blazers, suburbans, and GMC Jimmies from the 1970's through the early 90's.

http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfu...mp;t=11709
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shred625
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you have for a car and what are you using it for? I suspect you are putting way to much thought into this.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:
I found this interesting...mostly because it's different. I looked up those gabriel 81164 shocks were used on Chevrolet Blazers, suburbans, and GMC Jimmies from the 1970's through the early 90's.

http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfu...mp;t=11709


Most interesting thing i saw there and its probably true for a rail is this quote

"the cheaper the shock the better the shock on front"
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will mostly use it for trail riding. Michigans upper peninsula is filled with great mining and logging trails...mostly un-groomed broken rock with lot of hills. it can be pretty intense. In west michigan its mostly gravel roads...easy driving. West michigan is pretty smooth but the Upper peninsula will definitely be a work out.

Quote:
Most interesting thing i saw there and its probably true for a rail is this quote

"the cheaper the shock the better the shock on front"


Yeah, I thought that was interesting too. I assumed that ment a less expensive shock, which is why I am leaning towards the Gabriel shocks...cause they are half the price of the KYB shocks...sometimes less depending on where you get them.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtkeeper wrote:

"the cheaper the shock the better the shock on front"


Which is still bollox, you want a decent damper with low friction and, more importantly, light enough valving for the weight of the spring/buggy.

If you find you have one that's too stiff just mount it it more of an angle or further towards the pivot on the arm, sorted.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
For a light weight buggy that has very little weight on the front end and that you are not running to hard, (like contenuious whoops) a stock 1968 and later Bus type II oil filled rear shock would work with 8in shock towers.


Since I will be driving it harder...would a gas charged shock be better?


Quote:
more importantly, light enough valving for the weight of the spring/buggy.


Apart from being really stiff, what happens if the valving is to heavy?

Quote:
If you find you have one that's too stiff just mount it it more of an angle or further towards the pivot on the arm


What is the advantage of that? It seams like you would create more problems than solve. I would imagine the shock wouldn't clear the torsion arms on full drop if it was any farther forward that it already is.[/quote]
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:

Apart from being really stiff, what happens if the valving is to heavy?


Not only will the ride be crap but you'll find the tyres skip over rough surfaces and the front of the car will pack down and ride on the bumpstops over washboard stuff too.
And what with the low weight and high friction they already having in the front suspension, it'll understeer like a bitch on turn in too.

If you use less of the damper travel/mount it at a steeper angle it gives the suspension more leverage so effectively makes the damper softer.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tip Phillip!

Anyone have opinions on gas charged bus shocks instead of plain oil shocks?
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Van,
Have you ever weigh the front of the vehicle?
I doubt if you have even 250lbs on front supension.
You can use a couple of bathroom scales for the front to weigh it.

The problem with using American car shock is they are just to stiff of valving for a light weight buggy. Using them will rattle your teeth out.
Gets worse as you get older and hurt more.

I really don't think you are ever going to make a stock oil shock fade or boil with what you are planning on doing.
You know that in the early days of buggies that they would take the stock oil out and use light weight oil and even use Lighter Fluid in the shocks to make them work. The stock shocks are made for a heavier Bug than a lightweight buggy. This is what Bruce Meyers and Ted Mangels did when he set the first Baja record run in 1967 in the first Meyers Manx, Old Red.

The hype of you need a gas filled shock for a play car has been over done.

One my one buggies all it had for years was stock worn shocks and it road great. It now has the cheapest EMPI oil filled shocks on it and working with out any problems. No oil leaks. They were the cheapest I could find since the price of CoFap shocks became more than I wanted to spend.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As much thought as you are putting into this you need to just buy so.me fox shocks so you can tune them. A real shock has endless tuning. I even change mine day to day at the dunes . Sand gets rougher towards the end of the weekend, or if it rains, ect.

I run fox 2.0 air shocks

In less than 30 sec I can change ride height and some stiffness with nitrogen.
in 2 min/ shock I can add 'gain" add oil so the suspension rate increases more.
Takes about 10 min a shock to remove some oil to decrease the gain.
takes about 10min a shock to revalve a shock (once dialed in rarely would it be worth it to revalve)

Nitrogen is cheap , you don't use much oil, and valves are cheap

Initial cost of shocks and nitrogen setup are the expensive part.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Van,
Have you ever weigh the front of the vehicle?
I doubt if you have even 250lbs on front supension.


My vehicle is not all in one piece, so I can't really weigh it, but I can't imagine It would be any more that 250 lbs.

Quote:
a stock 1968 and later Bus type II oil filled rear shock would work with 8in shock towers.


I think I have decided to do what I see most people do...just get a cheep pair of rear bus shocks. I kinda wanted to be a little different, but I see that there is really no point if what other people use works just fine. I will go check shocks out in a little bit and let you know what I come up with.

Thanks for all your input guys.
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