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87 vanagon automatic transmission rebuild begins
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jrobewesty Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about new bushings for the case?

Does your trans have the plastic thrust washer?

How do the steels look?
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cee
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jrobewesty wrote:
How about new bushings for the case?

Does your trans have the plastic thrust washer?

How do the steels look?


Didn't order the bushings. Has plastic thrust washers. If you mean the steel pieces between spline plates, I have new ones? Took apart the direct/reverse clutch to look at piston-looks fine, no damage, but new one is on the way so i guess it will be replaced. Final drive piston looks fine as well, but will be replaced.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Received the pistons today, but should have looked at the old one closer and my bently manual. The first/reverse piston was part #010 323 477 not 010 323 479A. 477 is the later version with a built in ball valve. After contemplating whether to use the old one i ordered one from autoatlanta for $70. It is the same one used in porsche 944 transmissions. Looks like I will be waiting a little longer to re-assemble but will provide some pics when i put back together. All the parts including the gasket and seal kit could have been ordered through german transaxle which would have been the easier route in hindsight, or autoatlanta could also have provided.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Call Ken, He sent me the same and I questioned it. He said he uses those instead on all of his builds.

Jeff
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cee
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jrobewesty wrote:
Call Ken, He sent me the same and I questioned it. He said he uses those instead on all of his builds.

Jeff


I ordered the other one from autoatlanta already. I wonder why they would use the one without the ball valve built in. I assumed the older style like i received was for a transmission that didn't have the port built into the back of the case. I might have to call ken to ask, just seems like it should be there for reason. The two pistons i installed fit tighter then the old ones-which basically just slid in/out-so maybe this will help.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some pics of the oil pump.

Remove pump cover plate-two screws, under spring tension:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Check out the drive gear:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Remove the clip together piston rings-four:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Install new ones:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:25 am    Post subject: shifter o-ring changed, direct/reverse clutch piston changed Reply with quote

Changed the small orange o-ring that leaked by the shifter. Didn't get pics of the change but i will show where and how i did it:

Changed two pistons. Pics to follow:

Be careful when pressing the spring retainer plate back into place:
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back to update progress. Tried to order the same large piston with ball valve from autoatlanta but it was delayed for a long time. Tried to order through german transaxle but they sent me a rebuild kit which i already had, so trying to get it back to them. Talked to someone at german transaxle that verified i could use the piston they had originally sent without the check ball in it, and that it would be more reliable as there is one less part to fail, and that he probably did not have the one i was looking for anyways.
Put the two clutches on the oil pump and tried the air pressure test using 25 psig to make sure pistons on each one compressed spring plates but didn't work right away. Kept trying until the direct/reverse clutch piston would move and go back, but the forward clutch still would not compress the spring plate and sounded like it was just leaking air near the holes on the pump that are supposed to move the piston.
Went to the junk yard and found a 1986 audi 5000 with 206000 km's and removed and bought the transmission section. This is fairly easy, but i would reccommend bringing something to cut the exhaust out of the way. Dissassembled and it was an identical 3 speed transmission.
Tried the same air test on the audi pump/forward clutch/direct-reverse clutch assembly, and both air tests moved the pistons to compress the spring plates. Put the audi pump on my rebuilt clutches and both air tests work fine. I had changed the oil pump clip together piston rings with the ones in the kit which were same size but dull metal. Put the audi clutches on my rebuilt pump and forward clutch still not moving. Removed the two seals that are on top of oil pump section that is used with the forward clutch. Put back together, and lightly pressed on the piston while doing the air test and it moves as it should. Obviously by not pressing down there was no good seal so the piston couldn't pressurize properly, and maybe those new clip together rings were not as good as the ones i removed.
In the end i will be using the audi pump with original clip together piston rings that were on it, and my new pistons, rebuilt clutches, 1st gear brake piston without the ball valve built in, original 2nd gear brake band, and new seal kit. I will have a second transmission as well now, which will need a new sun gear as i scratched the bearing surface when fighting to get the transmission out.
Now just to re-assemble this transmission, and re-install once i get a warmer day. I will provide more pics when i have time.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget to make the measurement to determine the shim required between the auto section and the differential section. The measurement may or may not have changed. Use the new paper gaskets when making the measurement. Sounds like you are learning quite a bit. Thanks for reporting back.
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cee
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, learning alot. Nice to have the spare transmission here too, just in case i needed any parts, took the shim that was on the audi as well if needed. Wasn't doing much on it around Christmas while i was waiting for the large piston that it turned out i did not need anyways.

Started re-assembly yesterday for awhile. Couldn't push the 2nd gear piston on the side in by hand. Took it to work this morning and was able to use a hand press to push it in enough to put circlip in. Pics coming soon. So tonight put the two clutch packs in.

I can take my time now because it is -35 degC so i won't be sliding under that van until it warms up a bit to re-install.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't want to post anything until i knew if i was successful or not. Got the trans back in place last weekend, about 4 hours casual work made easier with an extra set of hands this time. Put the intake and exhaust, battery in today and started her up. Running fine, added about 1.5 litres before starting and put a bit in the torque converter as well before but not much. Checked the dipstick after startup in neutral, nothing showing so added another .5 litres. Shifted through gears, tried driving with no movement. Added more fluid, starting to move in gears, drove off ramp, realized i just drove over my wheel chocks, throw in the garbage. Checked fluid again, still not showing much, added more. Drove around block to front of house, not driving right but moving. Pulled over, checked fluid again in neutral, added more, reverse, drive, reverse, seems okay. Check fluid again, none showing, by this time i probably have added 3.5 litres.

Question: Manual says refill needs 2.5 litres. My transmission was bone dry after rebuild, with a very small amount in the new torque converter, and i am running a oil cooler mounted on the top of the transmission as well. Any idea of how much ATF i will need to add to get to mark??? I plan on slowly adding and checking in Neutral until i get to lower mark, just a question for those that may have done this before with the same setup?
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't recall exactly..I think I needed about seven quarts when the transmission is dry.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's 7 quarts=6.6 litres. Thanks, that is quite a bit but i was getting a little worried as i have added about 4 litres. I'll just keep slowly adding as i don't want to overfill, but may need to pickup another jug.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The difference between the min and max marks on the ATF dipstick is very little..maybe less than 1/2 liter..more like 1/4 liter.

With a dry automatic transmission and mostly empty torque converter..it takes much more than a service amount of ATF to refill.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:38 pm    Post subject: Fill amount from bone dry with new torque converter Reply with quote

Kept adding a little at a time with van in neutral. Eventually had a little on bottom of dipstick holding, added the last 1/2 litre in bottle and made it to the min mark. So, 5 litres needed to get to min mark for me. Drove the van, feels fine. I'll try it there for now and maybe add a bit from another bottle to bring it up to midway but i don't want to go over max mark.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 2:09 am    Post subject: VW Vanagon Auto Reverse Gear Clunk Reply with quote

We have a VW Vanagon 1.9cc watercooled 1985 in Cornwall UK

Still having problems when van is hot engaging reverse and get a thud going from D-R or P-R or N-R

All works fine when cool/cold when selecting reverse and all gears work fine.

Have changed ATF, cleaned valve assembly, change accumulator seal, check revs, timing, serviced Pierberg carb, adjusted 2nd gear band. Stall test is OK with specifications in Bentley manual.

Any suggestions appreciated
David
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UK
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:20 am    Post subject: Re: VW Vanagon Auto Reverse Gear Clunk Reply with quote

DjD wrote:
We have a VW Vanagon 1.9cc watercooled 1985 in Cornwall UK

Still having problems when van is hot engaging reverse and get a thud going from D-R or P-R or N-R

All works fine when cool/cold when selecting reverse and all gears work fine.

Have changed ATF, cleaned valve assembly, change accumulator seal, check revs, timing, serviced Pierberg carb, adjusted 2nd gear band. Stall test is OK with specifications in Bentley manual.

Any suggestions appreciated
David
Cornwall
UK


The "thud" could be motor/transmission mounts or a CV joint too. The engine/ transmission will move around going from D-R, P-R or N-R as the drive train "loads up" with the change in power direction.

Check the big transmission mount and especially the two smaller engine mounts. The engine mounts can come apart. When that happens, the engine will jump around as the power load changes direction.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 1:15 am    Post subject: Auto Gearbox reverse gear clunk Reply with quote

The engine mounts seem OK and drive shafts/CV joints OK

Tested the van on the drive without driving - upto hot and issue engaging reverse appears - so differential if not driven seems OK . Suspect ATF is getting hot and thinner and some internal problem in Auto box- perhaps on the apply pistons in the clutches ?
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pacobell63
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an automatic transmission from a Type 3. Where can I find a good rebuild kit?
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DjD
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:50 pm    Post subject: VW Vanagon T3/T25 Auto rebuild kit Reply with quote

Try http://www.foreignautosupply.com/ in Maine
they were very helpful and manufacture a new ATF cooler

I'm in UK , Cornwall and have used JPTransmissions (JPAT) for parts and have also been recommended to Vanmatic for parts

You need the Bentley Manual to help in overhaul
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