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babetheblueox
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Eugene, Oregon
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 Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:51 pm Post subject: runs just fine then engine shuts off. |
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| I own a 73 automatic that had a complete overhaul several months ago that is my daily driver. She has never run as well as she does now...until just the othernight she just shutdown while cruising through town. It happened twice. Once I coasted to a stop she fired up with no problem. The next day I let her idle for about 25 minutes and she was fine but as soon as I drove her off within five minutes she just cut out again, started right up and cut out again a few minutes later. What could be the problem? I have a new coil, electronic ignition, all new fuel filters rotor and cap. Any ideas where to start? All the connections seem to be tight. |
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babetheblueox
Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Eugene, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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| I should have stated that I'm talking about a 1973 automatic bay window bus that was upgraded to 2.0 ltr heads from 1700 cc. |
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jeffsbugs
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Joined: May 02, 2011
Posts: 294
Location: Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Check out this topic.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=523081&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I would start by installing points and condenser to eliminate the electronics. May also be the ignition switch starting to go. You could try running a 12volt jumper wire from the battery to the + side of the coil as a test to bypass the ignition switch.
hth
Jeff
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'73 Westfalia, rebuilt 1700, dual OG solex - 3500 miles and counting
'62 Baja |
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babetheblueox
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Joined: February 01, 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Eugene, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks jeff, I did read that post and found it to be not very helpful. I don't have a AFM or fuel injection so that's out. As far as eliminating the electronics, why would you do that? Not being a jerk about it, just not sure what purpose it would serve. I'm no motorhead so I really am just curious. It's my understanding that the electronic ignition is more reliable and maintenance free. Thank you again, Matthew |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 23885
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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| babetheblueox wrote: | | It's my understanding that the electronic ignition is more reliable and maintenance free. |
Not always, the bottom line in the thread Jeff posted (if it's the one I think it is) is electronic ignitions do fail and fail alot more than you think or people admit and thinking "it can't possibly be the electronic ignition" gets time consuming and expensive. Try the jumper wire to the coil first to rule out the ignition switch (disconnect it when parked) and if it's still quitting try a set of points.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
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jeffsbugs
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Joined: May 02, 2011
Posts: 294
Location: Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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| babetheblueox wrote: | | Thanks jeff, I did read that post and found it to be not very helpful. I don't have a AFM or fuel injection so that's out. As far as eliminating the electronics, why would you do that? Not being a jerk about it, just not sure what purpose it would serve. I'm no motorhead so I really am just curious. It's my understanding that the electronic ignition is more reliable and maintenance free. Thank you again, Matthew |
I mentioned that topic/thread because the problem was fixed by either replacing the electronic ignition or installing points.
The purpose of putting in points is to eliminate the electronic ignition as a possible source of the problem. They do fail and usually are intermitent.
I have a pertronix in my bus and it's worked well for years but I do carry points and condenser in my spare parts box just in case.
X2 what busdaddy said, try the jumper wire first to eliminate the ignition switch if that doesn't fix it try a set of points and condenser.
Jeff
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'73 Westfalia, rebuilt 1700, dual OG solex - 3500 miles and counting
'62 Baja |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 19955
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Knowing what fuel system you have would help in getting worthwhile answers, though brief cutting out of the engine sounds like an electrical problem. |
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bsairhead
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Joined: October 08, 2008
Posts: 1392
Location: viroqua wi.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Check your rotor. Had one a couple years back that looked fine, tested fine when cold but hot it lost conductivity. |
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ccpalmer 
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Joined: September 17, 2006
Posts: 3518
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:12 am Post subject: |
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Does just the engine die or does the electrical system cut out too?
I'd be checking ALL my wire connections.
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'77 Bay/rusty shed on wheels
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Chris Palmer
Cocobolo Co., LLC
ccpalmer.com |
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OE800
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Joined: April 01, 2007
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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| +1 try switching back to points and condenser. |
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rwhigg
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Joined: May 26, 2010
Posts: 233
Location: Dallas, TX
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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Try the points. To see what I went through by assuming the electronics were good, read the post http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...020b2cbaa2 (FIXED!!! Engine cutting out intermittently) in this forum. The modules do go bad, and points are a cheap and quick way to confirm whether the unit is working or not.
| Quote: | | Thanks jeff, I did read that post and found it to be not very helpful. I don't have a AFM or fuel injection so that's out. |
My problem had nothing to do with the fuel injection. That was a mistaken assumption on my part, a wild goose chase. It was a progressive failure of the ignition module. Since installing points, I've had no further problems. I've ordered a new Pertronix, but for now I am running trouble free. |
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