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jgrexx
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Joined: July 19, 2012
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Location: Alabama
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 Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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i'm thinking about using SS braided line like that is used for external oil filters to work as my heat risers. do you think they can handle the exhaust heat?
my idea is to screw in connectors on the cut off heat riser tubes and one on the #2 exhaust near the head and one on the collector up high. then i can just screw on the hoses to the fittings. this will make it easy to remove them when removing the exhaust and such later down the road. if you weld pipe you would have to remove the manifold every time you take the exhaust off since they would be connected. i'm trying to avoid that. also i'm trying to avoid welding since i don't have a welder and don't know how to weld lol. i figure screw in connectors would be a whole lot easier. that way i can remove the hoses with the turn of a wrench and reinstall just as easy.
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1970 Baja Bug
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Bashr52
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Joined: July 16, 2006
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Location: On the Hill In J.C.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:12 am Post subject: |
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The braided lines usually have a rubber/plastic line inside. They only see oil temps around 200-250. Exhaust will be much hotter than that, I doubt they would last long.
A new manifold with un-cut risers and exhaust pipes with the riser outlets will likely be your best bet in the long run. |
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 11:22 am Post subject: |
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i'll have to come up with something else. no need to buy a whole new exhaust and manifold. the headers you buy aren't even made right anyways. they have connections at the outlets of #2 and #4 cylinders which doesn't make the air flow through the heat risers like it's supposed to. it just kindof pulses through there.
i guess i'll have to take it somewhere and get pipe welded onto it and come up with some way to disconnect them.
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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pafree
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Location: dayton, the one in texas
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 11:21 pm Post subject: |
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| jgrexx wrote: | i'll have to come up with something else.
i guess i'll have to take it somewhere and get pipe welded onto it and come up with some way to disconnect them. |
what about flexible metal gas/propane tubing? you can cut/have it cut to the length you want and have fittings put on the ends.
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1972 vw hunting truggy
sand it, fill it, paint it, throw some mud on it and then baja it. |
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 343
Location: Alabama
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 343
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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got some parts in and did some more work on my baja. the studs that hold the intake manifold on are too short and worn out kindof. with the new aluminum gaskets installed there wasn't really any threads for the nuts to grab hold of. i even tried it without the gaskets and one side they barely stick out past the manifold so when you tighten the nut down the other one pops off. i just ended up taking them out. gonna find some that are about 1/4 inch longer. the studs, nuts are kinda stripped anyways. when taking them off the nuts were barely on there. i'm not really sure but to me they are the wrong size or something. way too short. i had to put one nut on there and then another and then unscrew the lower nut to get them out. how do you go about getting new ones in? just screw them in by hand?
 
 
got my new scat pushrod tubes and silicon seals. the seals that come with them aren't silicon so i ordered them seperate. also got my new fan and new pulley and alternator installed on the fan shroud.
 
got my new gaskets, oil baffle, dizzy clamp, and fuel pump stand installed. packed bottom of fuel pump with grease. there was no grease in there before and they had two bottom gaskets on there instead of a bottom and a top style gasket. 
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Bashr52
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Location: On the Hill In J.C.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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| jgrexx wrote: | got some parts in and did some more work on my baja. the studs that hold the intake manifold on are too short and worn out kindof. with the new aluminum gaskets installed there wasn't really any threads for the nuts to grab hold of. i even tried it without the gaskets and one side they barely stick out past the manifold so when you tighten the nut down the other one pops off. i just ended up taking them out. gonna find some that are about 1/4 inch longer. the studs, nuts are kinda stripped anyways. when taking them off the nuts were barely on there. i'm not really sure but to me they are the wrong size or something. way too short. i had to put one nut on there and then another and then unscrew the lower nut to get them out. how do you go about getting new ones in? just screw them in by hand?
got my new scat pushrod tubes and silicon seals. the seals that come with them aren't silicon so i ordered them seperate. also got my new fan and new pulley and alternator installed on the fan shroud.
got my new gaskets, oil baffle, dizzy clamp, and fuel pump stand installed. packed bottom of fuel pump with grease. there was no grease in there before and they had two bottom gaskets on there instead of a bottom and a top style gasket.
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Looking good! Did you install the oil breather stand gasket the right way? |
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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pafree
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Location: dayton, the one in texas
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| Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:39 am Post subject: |
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| jgrexx wrote: | | way too short. i had to put one nut on there and then another and then unscrew the lower nut to get them out. how do you go about getting new ones in? just screw them in by hand? |
i have had intake studs pull out of the head before and i retapped and used a bolt. you could use the nut and stud for the hard to reach hole and a bolt for the other. after the intake gasket is reshaped then you can replace the bolt with the double nutted stud if you want. just don't use too long of a bolt or it will push into the area where the valve springs are and rub on them.
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1972 vw hunting truggy
sand it, fill it, paint it, throw some mud on it and then baja it. |
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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i found some studs at napa. they are actually shorter on the end that goes into the case and longer on the end sticking out. they worked perfectly!!!
i got everything back together today. it looks really nice. almost like a brand new engine. i just hope it all works just as well lol.
i put the rockers back on after putting in the push rod tubes on #3 and #4 and checked the valves and they were still set correctly. i had set all the valves before beginning all the work at .006 i did the other side and the #1 intake valve and #2 exhaust valve were tight so i readjusted them. what would make them change? just curious. one side didn't change and the other did. kinda weird. i had to get a new belt. the old one was too long. i got a stock size pulley so my guess is since the PO had spaced out the generator because of the wrong wider fan he then put a longer belt on since the pulleys weren't lined up straight. anyways i got it all back together and wired up ready to go now. just gotta dial in the carb adjustments once i set the timing. it looks alot better in real life. the camera doesn't do it any justice. maybe a daytime pic would look better but this is how it looks under flourescent bulbs in a garage at night lol.
 
 
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Bajabugman1970
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Joined: February 18, 2012
Posts: 70
Location: Springfield, Oregon
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| Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:52 am Post subject: |
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| Well it looks all nice and perty now but wait untill you get some dirt on then it will be perfict!! haha |
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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jgrexx
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Posts: 343
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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got my exhaust and all back on now. cranked the car a few times. had a small drip or two from the valve covers after running the engine about 10-15min. figures. old gaskets were broken into 3 pieces and never leaked yet brand new ones leak??? lol... anyways put some more permatex on them and i think i got them to stop leaking now. the pushrod tubes never leaked a drop anywhere from the seals or the o-rings. i used the silicon seals instead of the ones that came with the kit.
i set the valves, timing, and all and tried to set the carb up according to the vw resource page.
not having a tach i set the bypass screw as close to 900rpms as i could. i then turned the volume screw out 2 1/2 turns to start.
i never could really tell that the rpms dropped 25rpms when trying to fine tune the volume screw by turning it to the right. it seemed if i turned it left up to 3 turns out the engine sorta started stumbling and if i turned it to the right which would be 2 turns out it stumbled as well. i just left it at 2 1/2 turns out since that's where it seemed to run the best. if i slowly push the throttle in there is no hesitation but if i push it in quickly there is a tad bit of hesitation. this is probably since i have the german bosch made 009 dizzy (no clone).
ok so i have the brosol 30/31pict carb on the 1600 single port engine. the jets in the carb are 120 main, 65 idle, 50 power, and a 125z air correction jet. i read on vw resource they suggest 125main and 55 idle when running vacuum advance dizzy. they say run 127.5 main when using 009 with the 30/31 carb.
the smaller main jet was for emissions and the larger idle jet was used to offset it. so basically if i put the 122.5main jet out of my other carb and ran it with the 65 idle jet is should be the same thing as running a 127.5 main with a 55 idle....or close to it???
right?
the carb on the car when i got it was the wrong one. it was a 28pict-1 with 122.5 main jet and 55 idle. wrong carb but it worked without hesitation with the 009 dizzy. the car ran good but lacked power due to the smaller carb.
i'm gonna save up to buy a 019 dizzy down the road that will work without any flat spot at all but until then i just have to deal with what i have. those 019 dizzys aren't cheap lol.
my engine is basically stock other than header exhaust.
what jetting do you guys run with brosol 30/31 pict carbs? does anyone have one on their 1600 single port?
please understand that a 34pict carb and a 1600 dual port engine require different jetting. they are pulling more air through compared to a signel port engine with a 30/31 pict carb.
the vw resource says running a 125main with a 55 idle is easier to tune and you get better performance than running a 120main with a 65 idle.
anyone else deal with this before? any suggestions? so if and when i get a 019 should i go back to a 120main or change it all out and go with a 125main and a 55 idle jet? all i would have to do is buy a 125main jet. i have all the others. the idle jet is a pain to get to though. i'd prolly have to remove the carb to get it changed out. you can't fit a socket onto it and you have no room to turn a wrench in there. so if running a 120 main and a 65 jet is as good or close enough to running a 125main with a 55 idle jet then i'm not gonna mess with taking it all off again.
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jgrexx
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Posts: 343
Location: Alabama
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jgrexx
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Location: Alabama
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pafree
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Location: dayton, the one in texas
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| Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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| jgrexx wrote: | ...or is it??? noone seems to know for sure. i swapped them around and it didn't change anything.
DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW WHICH JET IS TRUELY THE IDLE JET AND WHICH JET IS TRUELY THE POWER JET??? |
sorry i can't help with your carb jetting question but if switching them didn't make a difference then you could still be looking a distributor not advancing correctly when you hit the pedal.
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1972 vw hunting truggy
sand it, fill it, paint it, throw some mud on it and then baja it. |
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jgrexx
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Posts: 343
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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yeah i know the dizzy is the problem with the hesitation. i'm talking about after the hesitation stops.
i'm gonna have to get a 205T vacuum only dizzy or a 019 dizzy to get rid of the hesitation. i just wanna make sure my carb is setup right.
the original carb for the 1600 single port engine was a 30 pict-3. it came with 112.5 main jet, 65 idle jet, 45 power jet, and 125z air correction jet.
the brosol h30/31 carb is made most like that carb as well as the 31 pict-3 european carb.
the brosol comes with 120 main jet, 65 idle jet, 50 power jet, and 125z air correction jet. there just seems to be alot of confusion on which jet is the idle jet and which is the power jet.
alot suggest changing the jetting to 125 main, 55 idle, 65 power, and 125z air correction. i guess this makes it a little easier to tune. i'm not sure why they say run a 65 power jet. that is alot higher than the stock jet used. that jet really is never used anyways. it doesn't come in until 5000rpms. who revs their vw bug up that high? not me lol.
so far i'm staying with the stock jets that came with the carb. i tried a few variations but it just seemed to run worse. the stock setup worked the best.
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Bashr52
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Location: On the Hill In J.C.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 4:38 am Post subject: |
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The idle jet is the one that screws in to the side of the carb near the top. I believe the power jet is the one that regulates fuel to the accelerator pump tube, so that is the long brass one just behind the accelerator tube. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Have you verified the accelerator pump is setup correctly? |
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