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bleeding brakes tip needed
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

camerahunter wrote:
So, I am reading up on bleeding my brakes because I have the pump once and it' soft, twice and it's good.
By soft it means low to stop, acting like it's not really grabbing much, 2nd pump and they are normal and stop normally.
This is in my white 1985.
I have bled them too many times to count.
Engine of, furthest first, clear tube into ajar of fluid, someone pumping and holding while I operate the bleeder screw.

My question about building or using the pressurized deal posted here is why would it work?
Put the cap on, pressurize the system, remove the cap to put on the real cap and doesn't all the pressure escape?

Thank you,

David


How does the brake pedal feel with the handbrake on? The same or different?
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

close the bleed screw then do the 2nd furthest line, etc. after the closest line to m/c then swap caps
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camerahunter
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly the same.

Thank you,

David
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

camerahunter wrote:
Exactly the same.

Thank you,

David


Good - so you have rear brakes! Wink

What results do you get when you bleed - do you get bubbles or froth, does the pedal feel change?
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wbx
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

camerahunter wrote:

My question about building or using the pressurized deal posted here is why would it work?
Put the cap on, pressurize the system, remove the cap to put on the real cap and doesn't all the pressure escape?


So, i've never used a pressure system - only used the pedal pump method and a vacuum pump method.

However, the principle is pretty straight forward. Pressurize the system with the pump, go back to your brake, bleed normally until clean fluid comes out. The pressure system is like a continuous pedal press that never bottoms out... it just keeps squeezing that brake fluid out.
After you are done, you no longer need the pressure.

You don't put the original cap back on until after you've bled all the brakes.

-Damon
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HENDO
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

camerahunter wrote:
So, I am reading up on bleeding my brakes because I have the pump once and it' soft, twice and it's good.
By soft it means low to stop, acting like it's not really grabbing much, 2nd pump and they are normal and stop normally.
This is in my white 1985.
I have bled them too many times to count.


UGH! I am having this same problem!

I have a power bleeder. I changed out the master brakes and clutch(also slave). I have bled these things 4 times now, completely flushing the lines with all new fluid, but they are still mushy as described above, but are firm after a pump of the brakes.

My booster appears to be working fine after performing the test described in the bentley.

Any ideas?
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try it the old fashioned way with a helper. I've met mechanics that swear you can't get a good bleed on a VW w/o a power bleeder. However, I've had the best luck doing it the 2 person slow way. I bought a vacuum bleeder and after fighting it, went back to the 2-person.

My problem is leaky bleeders. You can be flushing fluid but still ingesting air into the system.
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HENDO
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buildyourown wrote:
Try it the old fashioned way with a helper. I've met mechanics that swear you can't get a good bleed on a VW w/o a power bleeder. However, I've had the best luck doing it the 2 person slow way. I bought a vacuum bleeder and after fighting it, went back to the 2-person.

My problem is leaky bleeders. You can be flushing fluid but still ingesting air into the system.


OK, I will try that this evening.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a Vanagon, the firm pedal comes from properly adjusted rear brakes. The fact that the pedal comes up after a couple of depressions indicates to me that the rear shoes are not in close contact to the drums. A sinking pedal would indicate air in the system or a failing cylinder. You don't seem to have either.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
On a Vanagon, the firm pedal comes from properly adjusted rear brakes. The fact that the pedal comes up after a couple of depressions indicates to me that the rear shoes are not in close contact to the drums. A sinking pedal would indicate air in the system or a failing cylinder. You don't seem to have either.


OK, I haven't even looked at the rear shoes. I'll pull the wheels off this evening. That's probably what it is.
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to pull the wheels - leave 'em on & adjust through the backing plate:
(photo for clarity/credit to ragnarhairybreeks)

You can do this with any normal length, regular old straight screwdriver.
There are 2 rubber plugs on the backing plate: remove center most rubber plug & work through that hole.
The adjusting plug is below and just forward of the star adjuster.
(The other plug near the edge of the backing plate is used to check amount of brake shoe lining.)

Photo is of the driver's side: imagine the mirror image for the passenger side.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here goes:
1) Hold screwdriver & blade flat, parallel to the ground.
2) Insert blade through brake backing plate at about 45 degree angle toward the rear of the van (screwdriver handle points towards opposite front wheel)
3) First thing the blade will touch is the star adjuster wheel!
4) Lever the blade "down" (handle "up") to tighten the adjuster.
NOTE: this applies to either side, as the adjuster bolt has opposite thread on opposite sides.
5) There may be some resistance as you rotate the star wheel against the ratchet of the brake shoe adjuster lever, but when you hear "clicks" you'll know you're on the right track.

You'll need to repeat this about 5-6 times (10-12 clicks) to rotate the star wheel one full revolution. Go until the shoes start to drag on the drum; then back off a couple clicks. Try it on the road & repeat/fine tune as necessary.

Hang in there - you'll get it done. Good luck!
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HENDO
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give that a try in a few hours...thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SUCCESS!!

Adjusting the rear skater did the trick!!

Much thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All in a days work...See you on the road!!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks man! I already told my girl we were cruising sludge down river road Saturday and having beers at bubbas big deck in celebration!!
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A result. Congrats.
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