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What lights and gauges do I need for my Rail??
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myrddin
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:17 pm    Post subject: What lights and gauges do I need for my Rail?? Reply with quote

for this switch box... what all you think I need for the AC motor?
I have this box:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Volt

Alt light
Oil light

sealed switch
sealed switch
sealed switch
sealed switch

What should I put in the console?
looks like this:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=

no holes??

I guess I still need a starter switch (push button??)... might add a battery shut off...

looking for other rails with similar things. I want to wire things up and weld tabs where needed... but I may not have the things to hook up right away... Mostly at this point I want it to run and stop. I also may try to put the fuse block in the console... Wish I could make some sort of side access... but I am afraid I would mess up the console cutting a hole in the side.
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superpro56
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plan on making it street legal?
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myrddin
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think so... This rail is pretty limited... I want to have the option... and still may...

I will have headlights
reward facing spot light
brake lights

... so not much left (turn signal, horn and so on)...

this rail is quite small for trail ridding...
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minimum...

Head lights, tail lights and brake lights (so guy behind you knows what you are doing)...

Oil pressure light, and alternator (generator light) ... You will not have a lot of time to read a lot of gauges, but big light glowing in front of you will get your attention ...

Dale
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Lives his life vicariously through his own self...
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.

All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...
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myrddin
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale, do you think it would be smart to get the sealed toggle switches that have the led on the end? I am also going to get a battery isolator switch too...

OK I put it on paper, and this is what I came up with for starters... I almost feel like this is to much... What do you guys think? I cant afford to do all at once... I only want what I need to get the motor to run... I can add other things after... but I may weld on the brackets I need so its ready to bolt up (if I can figure out what they are). I think I only need the alt light and oil light for starters... and the ignition switch... all the other things can bolt on after.

My laundry list: (anything out of order?)

Head Lights:
5 forward facing, 1 reward
Running Lights: Turn signal?
2 front, 2 rear
Third Brake Light:
1 rear upper roof

Switch Box:
Volt, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure - Alt light, Oil light - 4 sealed switches (running lights, head lights, rear spot light, 12 volt accessory)

Console:
Ignition switch, Battery Shutoff, 12 volt accessory

Junction box (rear area) - Lowes box and flexible electrical tubing
(box will be in a place I can open up if I need to replace a fuse)

Rebel 12 circuit deluxe bug fuse box...
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you simply want to get buggy to run/drive....

IF you have alternator...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

IF you have generator....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

All I would add is brake lights so idiot behind you can see you are trying to stop or slow down...

IF you can not afford much in lights, do not drive at night....

OR minimum a set of "standard" headlights, more can come later as funds are available....

Minimal for ability to drive in dark (high & Low beams) ...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You are making this much to complicated.....

Dale
_________________
Lives his life vicariously through his own self...
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.

All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...
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myrddin
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dale... You have shown me what I needed... You think a toggle and push button is a better choice than kill switch and keyed starter switch? I have long term plans but only want to get the minimum in now so I can get it running. I will weld in tabs for the lights and even run wire for down the road.

Just made my order... Will get me started...

k4s17-431-07 K4 GREEN 3/4 INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT MOUNTS INTO 3/4 HOLE - ALT ENGRAVED FOR ALTERNATOR 1 $15.00 USD $15.00 USD
k4s17-430-05 K4 RED 3/4 INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT MOUNTS INTO 3/4 HOLE - OIL ENGRAVED FOR OIL PRESSURE 1 $16.00 USD $16.00 USD
k4s16-125blk BLUE SEA HEAVY DUTY BLACK BATTERY CUT OFF ISOLATOR SWITCH WITH REMOVEABLE KNOB FOR A SINGLE BATTERY 1 $36.00 USD $36.00 USD
k4s13-140 ON/OFF SAND SEALED TOGGLE SWITCH WITH L.E.D. RED TIP - SINGLE POLE 30AMP 4 $18.00 USD $72.00 USD
AC903100SEALED COLE HERSEE HEAVY DUTY 4 POSITION SAND SEALED WATER RESISTANT UNIVERSAL 6 WIRE IGNITION SWITCH 1 $35.00 USD

I need a few more things... My new goal is to get the motor running...
Need gas line... Electrical box and wire loom still.... I think I have the rest... Minus the other things like breather box and oil cooler and filter... But that shouldn't stop me from getting it to run.
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