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1971 super beetle master cylinder
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Therealdc86
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Joined: June 18, 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:25 am    Post subject: 1971 super beetle master cylinder Reply with quote

Old pedal assembly in my 1971 SB was rusted/ broken gas pedal replaced it using the existing brake push rode off the old assembly. I don't know if the old push rod has ever been change as I don't know the exact length it should be. I bought a new master cylinder bench bled it and installed it. Each wheel is getting brake fluid with self bleeder kit but the master isn't getting any pressure once lines are sealed and there are no leaks. Pedal just goes straight to the ground. So guess my question is should I get a nother master cylinder or trying gravity bleeding the system? The old master I bench bled it as well and rid the internals of all the gunk that was in there so I'm not sure if it's usable? The flexible brake lines were swelled up and replaced but before I took the old master out the pedal had pressure so I'm not sure what to think. I just don't want to take the master out again if I don't need to. Sorry for the rambling lol.
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vernonc
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Joined: April 23, 2012
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Location: Mile 81 Ohio River...yes I live on a boat.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 super beetle master cylinder Reply with quote

Therealdc86 wrote:
Old pedal assembly in my 1971 SB was rusted/ broken gas pedal replaced it using the existing brake push rode off the old assembly. I don't know if the old push rod has ever been change as I don't know the exact length it should be. I bought a new master cylinder bench bled it and installed it. Each wheel is getting brake fluid with self bleeder kit but the master isn't getting any pressure once lines are sealed and there are no leaks. Pedal just goes straight to the ground. So guess my question is should I get a nother master cylinder or trying gravity bleeding the system? The old master I bench bled it as well and rid the internals of all the gunk that was in there so I'm not sure if it's usable? The flexible brake lines were swelled up and replaced but before I took the old master out the pedal had pressure so I'm not sure what to think. I just don't want to take the master out again if I don't need to. Sorry for the rambling lol.


Some questions that need answered. Do you have any 'free play' in the pedal before the 'push rod' contacts the pistons in the master cylinder? Did you purchase a good German master cylinder or a 'cheap Chinese one'? You said you used a 'self bleeder'. Was this a 'pressure bleeder' or a 'vacuum bleeder'? Vacuum bleeders won't work on our systems. Since you have a 'dual system master cylinder', did you start your bleeding at the 'right front wheel then the left or did you start at the back. With a 'dual system', and without a pressure bleeder, you need to start at the front.

With these question answered, we will be able to give you more help.

mort
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"Those who don't read newspapers are un-informed. Those who do read newspapers are mis-informed." Will Rogers

'69 sedan, low mileage, all original.....currently being 'freshen-up' for road trips and daily driving...just not every day
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Therealdc86
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bought a rebuilt mc as at the time I didn't have the money for the expensive one. Used a handheld pressure bleeder as I was working on the car myself. I've read to start furthest away from they when starting to bleed to both backs then passenger side front then driver side front. Bled probably 4 times each wheel getting fluid no air bubbles. And free play before it hits the master you mean the space before it makes contact with the cylinder I haven't measure it so I would not know that info.
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