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Drivability issue with stock 36hp
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vic
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 6:33 am    Post subject: Drivability issue with stock 36hp Reply with quote

Trying to help my buddy get his 57 vert with stock 36 horse motor going. It's all stock and 6v. Issue is when he drives car on fwy on a warm day engine is hesitating bad like ignition is cutting out around 60 mph. We found that the Coil gets very hot, and we even made it home from a car show once wrapping a cold towel around coil and problem went away. Also issue does not occur when driving when its cool such as the morning. We checked engine ground, fuel delivery, replaced coil, valve adjustment, points gap and so far no dice. Anyone have any advice?
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60ragtop
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd check the plug wires for resistance starting with the coil lead and connections there.
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tasb wrote:
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.


sb001 wrote:
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked Wink
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vic
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

60ragtop wrote:
I'd check the plug wires for resistance starting with the coil lead and connections there.


Well go ahead and check those. They are new wires. This car was completely restored also.
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Suboval
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have him check his transaxle ground. If you have an ohmmeter, check the coil body to chassis ground connection. I would also check the generator body to chassis ground connection.
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to change the condenser.
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pip hancox
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the exact same issue a few years back and it turned out to be the coil lead rubber boot needed to be "burped". As the coil heated up, it expanded an air bubble that was trapped inside the boot, enough to start pushing the coil lead away from the coil causing a bad connection. Once everything cooled down it ran perfect again but lifting the outer lip of the boot as you push the lead all the way in ensures there is minimal air in there to expand and cause the problem.
Worth a try and it's free. Hope this makes sense and solves the issue.
Cheers,
Pip.
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oldbusboy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, check ignition system.. condensor and points for sure.

Also worth checking that you don't have a vapor lock.. ie fuel delivery issue when it gets hot. Is the brass tube coming through the fan shroud on the drivers side resting on the manifold?

Trevor
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GüteAndTite
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you might want to expand all of the coil and spark plug wire lugs on the end of each cable, smear on some dielectric grease and then push them back into connections- make sure they are snug and dont easily slide- this all ensures good electrical contact.

paint the coil black if its blue or silver to dissapate some heat

check to make sure all engine tin is in place and sealing well with a proper soft engine compartment seal- this will help keep engine compartment from heating up more than it should.

check engine timing, points gap and dwell and make sure its not too advanced (28' max)

check intake manifold on these runs to see if it is icing- the manifold may be blocked
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