1966 912 - Need some pointers please?

[RickJohnston]

My uncle just gave me his 1966 912 that has been sitting on his property for awhile. It is missing the engine. I have spent the last several days trying to wrap my head around the different VW/Porsche engine types trying to get a good grasp of the different options I have for building a new engine for this project.

One thing I don't quite understand are the different motor types, or are they model types?

I see types 1,2,3,4 used on the engine identification page, but I only see engine parts sold for type 1 & 4 engines? Is the type 1,2,3,4 more of a body style? And then only 2 engine types (1 & 4)?

I would like to build a stroker, that might be boosted later using EFI (MegaSquirt). Perhaps a 82x90.5 to keep cooler temps if I boost? What case should I be looking for?

I have built several mild performance engines in the past (Triumph, Chevy & Ford) mostly V8's, and have wanted to give the VW platform a shot for years. I have never played with turbos either, but have wanted to try that as well.

So, can I just buy any old case and have it machined, or do I specifically need a type 4 case? And what should I be looking for when shopping?

Thanks a lot!

Rick

[glutamodo]

Models Types refer to the body. Type 1 - Beetle and Ghia. Type 2, Transporter. Type 3, Squareback and Fastback. Type 4, mostly 4-door with similar but larger bodies than the type 3.

Types 1 2 and 3 basically used the same base engine design up until the Type 2 (Transporter) switched to the stronger Type 4 engine design (for USA) in 1972. There were some small differences - type 3s have an extra hole on the rear of the block for an oil filler tube to attach to. 68-71 Bus blocks have extra mounting holes on the rear of the case for an engine mounting bar to attach to. Replacement "Universal" blocks incorporate all of those features.

The type 4 was a completely reworked engine. None of the parts are the same as the type 1-2-3 engines. It was a much stronger engine, and even though it started out as a 1700, was designed with enough room to rework it for larger displacements (like the 1959 redesign of the 36HP into the 40HP was also designed to be upgradable... but VW decided that 1600 was the largest they wanted to push that design, thus they redesigned again into the type 4) and the type 4 would eventually become 2 liters in size.

The type 4 was designed though to be a "suitcase" engine. And unlike the type 3 engine which was also suitcase layout, it is not easily adapted for upright use. It can be done but to do it, everything you bolt onto the engine is semi-custom (and expensive) They do make very strong reliable engines though.

Most people just go with a well-built type 1 engine though.

Now, there's a fair amount of Porsche fans that look way down on people who pop VW engines into 1960s 356s and 912s... Although, Porsche DID use the Type 4 engine in the revived 912e model in the mid 70s, as well as the 914. You might want to read this:

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/cooling/fit/912.shtml

[RickJohnston]

I know this might upset the purists (I apologize up front), but would a newer boxster engine fit?

Would the handling suffer because of engine weight differences?

If I grabbed a new after-market type 1 case (like this one http://www.jbugs.com/product/98-0454-B.html?Category_Code=empi-vw-engines-cases), would it be as strong/reliable as the type 4?

If I used a 2.0L type 4 (no stroker to keep cots down) could I later add turbos without killing it? What kind of horse power could I reliably get from a turbo'd 2.0L (mild boost <= 10PSI)?

Just trying to weight all the options.

Thanks again,

Rick

[Brian Mathe]

If you go with a type IV engine then you will have to do some changes to the transmission as the gearing is not set up for that type of engine. Your RPM's will be way off. Go find a nice used 70's super beetle engine, put some dual carbs and an exhaust on it and most importantly, find or fabricate all the correct engine tin so you can keep your engine cooling properly. You could put the strongest, craziest, well built engine in your car but if you do not set it up to cool properly, you will toast it quickly.
As far as caring what the purist say, well, who cares. Drive the car and enjoy it, that what Dr. Porsche wanted anyway, right? All the purist seem to forget that he modified VW engines to use in his first cars. Then if you really are enjoying it and find the correct 912 engine later, you can simply pull yours out for a rainy day and put the 912 in.
Before you drive anywhere though, you probably need to go through all the brakes, and I would switch the master cylinder to a dual circuit. There is a tech article on pelican I think that explains what you need to do. It doesn't pay to go if you can't stop...
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59 Kombi
66 Porsche 912
50 split-window

[jt912]

Thought from a mostly purist. Keep it as close to stock. As mentioned, the original "VW" platform was outfitted to accept a reasonably lightweight 90 HP air cooled powerplant. Once you go the way of water cooling, you will modify the car in ways it was never meant. Dr. Porsche may want you to drive it, but not hauling around gallons of unnecessary liquid. Also as mentioned, if you get too much power, you will need to address the suspension and brake systems. Why not put in a nicely built 616? If you are interested in the "VW" platform why not use a VW? Sell the 912 and get what you wanted all along and have some cash to put towards your engine build.

[drscope]

The 912 was and still is a wonderful car. That along with the long hood 911's are beginning to bring stupid money.
You have the opportunity here to have a really nice machine.
Keep it as close to stock as possible and you will ultimately also keep as much value as possible.
It's really difficult to improve on what the factory rolled out the door for a street machine.
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch!

[RickJohnston]

[Cptn. Calzone]

Saw your post and wanted to share my 912expierence with you;One can build a t1 based motor far and away cheaper and more powerful than sourcing, finding and then rebuilding$$ a 912 motor.I own a 67 912, the motor got old and the whole car needed a redo,sooooI had a 2387 stroker built, had to fab up a motor mount and some tin, rebuilt the trans and the car is a rocket!When and if I ever sell the car I have the 912 motor in the sged.These are great handling good looking cars,put some rehab into the suspension and brakes,build a motort t1 will cost you about6k complete vs12 k for the porsche motor.
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71 westfalia
67 912 Porsche Quintilla
67 Single Cab aka my work horse