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Tram
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Joined: May 02, 2003
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Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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 Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
AAR for automatics was usually electrically heated and not dependent on crankcase temperature. Here is an automatic's engine bay:
The AAR is between the distributor and crankcase breather box in this pic. There should be a hose from the AAR to the air cleaner, missing here.
Unlike the mechanical AARs, they are not adjustable without careful disassembly (but it can be done, see link).
http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=4098&u=11328436
I would check yours out, and also check for a leaky MPS. FI automatics tolerate no vacuum leaks near idle. |
1968 and 1969 Automatics had the regular mechanical AAR. Electric started with second- design cars/ C injection system in August 1969 (1970 model year).
Incidentally, I've never had any issues subbing the readily available mechanical AAR for a faulty electric one on an Automatic. VW never really explained why they made the change, either.
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FastyOrange
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Joined: November 15, 2012
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Location: Greenville, SC
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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You actually have the mechanical style version of the AAR installed. You can just remove it, disassemble it, clean & lube it, and put it back together. On that version there is a metal coil inside the engine block that adjusts based on engine temperature. It fastens to the body of the AAR with a screw and can be adjusted to stay open longer or shorter. The trick is to find the best setting for you car...this may mean balancing the airflow between the AAR and the idle air adjustment screw to achieve a nice balance.
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Tram
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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| FastyOrange wrote: |
| You actually have the mechanical style version of the AAR installed. You can just remove it, disassemble it, clean & lube it, and put it back together. On that version there is a metal coil inside the engine block that adjusts based on engine temperature. It fastens to the body of the AAR with a screw and can be adjusted to stay open longer or shorter. The trick is to find the best setting for you car...this may mean balancing the airflow between the AAR and the idle air adjustment screw to achieve a nice balance. |
The idle air screw should only be adjusted with the AAR hose disconnected from the air cleaner and the hose plugged.
On the bottom of the AAR, there is a small slotted flat head screw. Ideally, move that screw to the middle of the adjustment to start. + and - on the scale at either end of the slot is somewhat misleading- you'll find that if you move the adjustment all the way to + the AAR is closed. The closer to the -, the wider it opens.
It'll take some experimentation to get it right. Clean the unit with brake or carb cleaner, blow it dry, and then test operation in hot water. When the unit is room temp, you should be able to blow through it easily. As the unit heats up, it should be harder and harder, then finally impossible, to blow through it.
Use a hose or you might burn your lips. Don't burn your fingers.
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FastyOrange
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Joined: November 15, 2012
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Tram, if you have an AAR that doesn't close fully when the engine warms up, do you not adjust the idle air screw to bring the idle back into spec when everything is hooked up? I read that somewhere on here a while back, is that good advice or is that just wrong? Always glad to learn something new. Thanks.
Sorry for the partial hi-jack at least the question is relevant.
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Tram
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Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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| FastyOrange wrote: |
Hey Tram, if you have an AAR that doesn't close fully when the engine warms up, do you not adjust the idle air screw to bring the idle back into spec when everything is hooked up? I read that somewhere on here a while back, is that good advice or is that just wrong? Always glad to learn something new. Thanks.
Sorry for the partial hi-jack at least the question is relevant. |
Nope, the AAR needs to close fully.
That said, it can take ten miles or so of driving for it to fully close.
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KTPhil 
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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FastyOrange
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 3:59 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
Nope, the AAR needs to close fully.
That said, it can take ten miles or so of driving for it to fully close. |
Gotcha. Very good to know. Thanks!
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tanhis
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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Ok I got my AAR out.
So I will clean and test it tomorrow I think that is the easy part.
Should I adjust it to close at 122*F or should I test it in the car what works the best.
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KTPhil
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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| You can use a double boiler and thermometer on a stovetop to be precise about it. Or you can figure as long as it is fully closed after 10 minutes then you should be good to go. |
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tanhis
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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Ok I will use the stowe method and a multimeter temp sensor to adjust it as the car is in storage 20min drive away an the aar is in my home garage. And when it is in the car I will double test it.
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KTPhil
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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A side issue, but relevant to AAR functioning... I adjusted mine with the double-boiler and installed it. It seemed to work fine, but my idle would be a little on the low side for quote a few minutes-- longer than I expected. I later hooked up the thermostat and despite being in SoCal where they are allegedly not so important, the faster warm-up of the engine meant my car settled to a stable idle speed faster, too. Otherwise I should have opened up the AAR and probably had too much air after warm-up.
Last edited by KTPhil on Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:16 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Bobnotch
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
Incidentally, I've never had any issues subbing the readily available mechanical AAR for a faulty electric one on an Automatic. VW never really explained why they made the change, either. |
The electric AAR was supposed to be fully open after 5 minutes. VW went to it, as with the AT, the engine would cool off too soon. But, also on the AT it would allow the engine get to the lower idle speed sooner (emissions). I never understood why the MT never got it, while the t-4 engine always had the electric version (AT or MT). 
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tanhis
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Location: Rauma Finland
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:27 am Post subject: |
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I made a small how to of the cleaning of the aar.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7157226
Well see how this affects the engine running
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tanhis
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| Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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Now I am starting to get so pissed at this car.
Adjusted and set the idle to 950 +- 50
distributor to 0tdc and the dwell to 47dec.
Checked the valve caps again to spec
Aar now works as it should
Re checked for the wacuum leaks
New plugs just to make sure.
I got the car running almoust perfect on idle and on higher rpm whitout load.
It seems like I had a issue whit efi points in the distributor as cleaning those affected the running a lot.
But when I put it in gear it almoust stalls.
Whit first its ok (goes foward whit power) put when it shifts to second gear its like there is no pover at all just moo sound and when I put it in reverse its stalls completely.
I am thinking that as this car had a wrong ecu and the car had been in bosch car service could they have compensated to the wrong ecu by adjusting the mixture of the system from mps. And the owerly rich mixture would cause it to stall.
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Tram
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| Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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tanhis- does your car have the optional cold starting device?
Which MAP sensor are you running?
Are you absolutely certain that the engine runs on all 4 cylinders?
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tanhis
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| Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 12:13 am Post subject: |
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No cold start device.
And I pulled all injectors and squirted them to the bottles all seemed to be equal in volume and no other broblems. So all cylinders get fuel and if I pull plug wires one by one all affect the running of the engine. So all cylinders should be running and also all plugs were constant in black colour.And valve clearances also checked.
and heres a bad pic of the map 4wires connector.
http://www.fvwa.sitefactory.fi/data/8969.jpg
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Tram
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| Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 12:57 am Post subject: |
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No, what I mean is what part number is on the MAP? Also, see if the MAP holds vacuum.
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tanhis
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Location: Rauma Finland
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| Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 5:00 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| No, what I mean is what part number is on the MAP? Also, see if the MAP holds vacuum. |
311 906 051 C
| Quote: |
Pressure Sensor ;
April 1968 to July 1969 is # 311 906 051 B
August 1969 to July 1971 is # 311 906 051 C (with full throttle enrichment) |
so as my car is september '68 I think this sensor is incorrect.
Does anone have replacement for sale?[/quote]
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Tram
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| Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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That's what I thought we'd find. 
I'll go digging.
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Tram
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