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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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 Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Yabbadubbadoo wrote: |
I know you have a new beam now but just FYI and anyone else, you do not need to cut your front beam at all to replace inner bushes. Vw had a tool to pull them but unicorns stole them all.
Anyway, you can make a very simple tool yourself to pull the bush from outside. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=543745 |
Thanks for that! I will be trying to rebuild my old beam so your thread is very helpful!
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Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:49 am Post subject: |
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Spent some quality time with the wire brush only to reveal the PO's previous attempt at rust repair...at least now I know what I have to deal with.The rear areas are in ok shape with the exception of the forward wheel wells, under seat step area and heater channels..
The front end is a completely different story. How would you more experienced folks deal with this? Asking so I know what to discuss with the body shop... there is allot of good metal amongst the bad stuff...
I will have to send the car off to someone else for the metal work and am trying to do as much prep as I can to help keep costs down...I will post a WTB ad with specs for donor metal shortly...My thought is to get it all cleaned up, have the donor pieces available to reduce fabrication time and get a better, more OG look to the repairs
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Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 4:00 am Post subject: |
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I haven't seen too many whole front wheel well sides being offered up aside from early pieces that pop now and then. Clatter removed a good portion of his front end but he also removed spot welds and took sections of the sheet metal off. I'm no expert but study your sections well and weigh cutting and grafting or replacing the whole section if you can find them from a donor and in good condition. You could replace the front end after making cuts on the A Pillar tops and bottom of the rocker area where the corner of the door support and rocker meet. You could eliminate the whole front along with possibly taking care of the foot well issues you may encounter. Just a thought... but not the only option.
Those are some tough spots to deal with.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:55 am Post subject: |
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You won't know who has what to 'cut to order' for you until you put up the WTB ad with good pictures attached. I shipped these to Italy, so it can be done.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:44 am Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
You won't know who has what to 'cut to order' for you until you put up the WTB ad with good pictures attached. I shipped these to Italy, so it can be done.
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Mike, he posted up some good photos. If you have those parts in good useable condition, just send him a PM. Everyone on here knows you cut up these cars for parts.  That's why I suggest people contact you or Joel, IF they need any metal. Joel mostly deals with early stuff, while you take care of the late stuff. 
OP, Monte had the right idea though. You'll need to look at how far gone everything is. You could try Mario in Germany, and see IF he has any of those parts (NOS) in stock, as it could save on shipping.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 11:48 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
You won't know who has what to 'cut to order' for you until you put up the WTB ad with good pictures attached. I shipped these to Italy, so it can be done.
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Mike, he posted up some good photos. If you have those parts in good useable condition, just send him a PM. Everyone on here knows you cut up these cars for parts. That's why I suggest people contact you or Joel, IF they need any metal. Joel mostly deals with early stuff, while you take care of the late stuff.
OP, Monte had the right idea though. You'll need to look at how far gone everything is. You could try Mario in Germany, and see IF he has any of those parts (NOS) in stock, as it could save on shipping. |
Thanks Mike. I'll post the ad shortly with the pics and measurements of the sections I need. Hopefully you or someone on my side of the pond can deliver.
Monty and Bob, the A pillars look really solid as are the footwell areas (there are a couple rusty areas around the bottom of the "S" part of the wheel well, but the inner areas are good. Its really just the upper araes that were poorly repaired by the PO that Need work. So I don't think replacing the whole thing is needed. The front clip is ok and i already have the repair sections for the bumper mount areas.
Since I need to hire the work out, do you think I should go ahead and cut the bad upper sections or should I leave that for the body shop so they can choose the necessary cut points? I'm also thinking about how they will deal with the brazed section at the cowl that i saw Clatter pointed out in his thread. Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I have no experience with metal work so just not sure what would be preferred by a pro. Perhaps it's enough just to deliver it clean and let them go for it...
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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diesellibrarian
Samba Member
Joined: November 06, 2013
Posts: 55
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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I needed some sheet metal in the same areas. I sent this pic to Joel, with the rusty sections marked with masking tape, and he used it as a guide for cutting the steel from the donor car. I did a similar thing for the left side.
This is what he Fed-Exed me (cat not included):
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Robin
'70 Fastback
'80 Westfalia |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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| diesellibrarian wrote: |
I needed some sheet metal in the same areas. I sent this pic to Joel, with the rusty sections marked with masking tape, and he used it as a guide for cutting the steel from the donor car. I did a similar thing for the left side.
This is what he Fed-Exed me (cat not included):
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Hey your car is red, mine is green..he obviously sent you the wrong pieces! I want those sections!!! Thanks for the post 😉 I'll mask the areas as you did and see who has pieces for me.
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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vlad01
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 3069
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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Joanna from precious parts in the Philippines might still have some NOS late inner guards which will replace that whole rusty section.
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The best of VW engine development!
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71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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The intent of my post was to think about how much time it would take to work a piece in versus replacing the whole area with four cuts. May be cheaper to do. It's worth a question being asked of your preferred body shop that would be able to pull this off. It would seem to me to be cheaper (don't like that word) or reasonable to explore your options before getting a bunch of metal to piece-meal in. The previous owner tried and you see what took place. Not putting his efforts down but if you have the chance and finances work with both the securing the piece and getting it grafted in...
Explore it and see what the shop has to say. Just some thoughts.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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| MonT3 wrote: |
The intent of my post was to think about how much time it would take to work a piece in versus replacing the whole area with four cuts. May be cheaper to do. It's worth a question being asked of your preferred body shop that would be able to pull this off. It would seem to me to be cheaper (don't like that word) or reasonable to explore your options before getting a bunch of metal to piece-meal in. The previous owner tried and you see what took place. Not putting his efforts down but if you have the chance and finances work with both the securing the piece and getting it grafted in...
Explore it and see what the shop has to say. Just some thoughts. |
Thanks, that is definitely something to think about. I probably revealed how little I know about body work...just thinking I could buy the replacement metal and have it welded in may be naive. I think the PO just used some scap metal he had laying around and tried to patch things in. He had to fab and do multiple small pieces to get the contours close. Not putting him down...I just would do it differently. I see your point though and it's a good suggestion that I will definitely explore.
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:44 am Post subject: |
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| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Since I need to hire the work out, do you think I should go ahead and cut the bad upper sections or should I leave that for the body shop so they can choose the necessary cut points? I'm also thinking about how they will deal with the brazed section at the cowl that i saw Clatter pointed out in his thread. Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I have no experience with metal work so just not sure what would be preferred by a pro. Perhaps it's enough just to deliver it clean and let them go for it... |
I'd take some good pics, and have them printed out, and show them to the guys who you want to repair it. Ask them IF they want you to cut the metal out, or leave it like it is. It might cost a little more to let them cut it out, but, it'll also give them an idea of how it all goes together. Also ask them IF you source the pieces, how much extra they would like left on, as that might make it easier on them. Remember, it's easier to trim excess off, than add new metal because the patch part is too small. Like you said, you're not really a fab guy, so asking questions to the shop is the way to go.
I do agree with Monte though, talk to the fab guys, as they'll have a better idea of how to repair the areas you want fixed. The PO did a decent job with what he had laying around. But it also looks like he spent some time fitting it altogether.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:01 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Since I need to hire the work out, do you think I should go ahead and cut the bad upper sections or should I leave that for the body shop so they can choose the necessary cut points? I'm also thinking about how they will deal with the brazed section at the cowl that i saw Clatter pointed out in his thread. Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I have no experience with metal work so just not sure what would be preferred by a pro. Perhaps it's enough just to deliver it clean and let them go for it... |
I'd take some good pics, and have them printed out, and show them to the guys who you want to repair it. Ask them IF they want you to cut the metal out, or leave it like it is. It might cost a little more to let them cut it out, but, it'll also give them an idea of how it all goes together. Also ask them IF you source the pieces, how much extra they would like left on, as that might make it easier on them. Remember, it's easier to trim excess off, than add new metal because the patch part is too small. Like you said, you're not really a fab guy, so asking questions to the shop is the way to go.
I do agree with Monte though, talk to the fab guys, as they'll have a better idea of how to repair the areas you want fixed. The PO did a decent job with what he had laying around. But it also looks like he spent some time fitting it altogether. |
Thanks Bob. I agree. I'm going to do as you recommend and print the pics and go have a good chat with the guys before I do anything - looking at what you and Monty and others have done on your builds just makes me realize how difficult this really is. This is the guy that will do the work, and you will see, he's been down this road before so I'm confident he'll do a good job. http://www.pladewerket.dk/type-3-1500-n-variant/
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:15 am Post subject: |
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| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Since I need to hire the work out, do you think I should go ahead and cut the bad upper sections or should I leave that for the body shop so they can choose the necessary cut points? I'm also thinking about how they will deal with the brazed section at the cowl that i saw Clatter pointed out in his thread. Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I have no experience with metal work so just not sure what would be preferred by a pro. Perhaps it's enough just to deliver it clean and let them go for it... |
I'd take some good pics, and have them printed out, and show them to the guys who you want to repair it. Ask them IF they want you to cut the metal out, or leave it like it is. It might cost a little more to let them cut it out, but, it'll also give them an idea of how it all goes together. Also ask them IF you source the pieces, how much extra they would like left on, as that might make it easier on them. Remember, it's easier to trim excess off, than add new metal because the patch part is too small. Like you said, you're not really a fab guy, so asking questions to the shop is the way to go.
I do agree with Monte though, talk to the fab guys, as they'll have a better idea of how to repair the areas you want fixed. The PO did a decent job with what he had laying around. But it also looks like he spent some time fitting it altogether. |
Thanks Bob. I agree. I'm going to do as you recommend and print the pics and go have a good chat with the guys before I do anything - looking at what you and Monty and others have done on your builds just makes me realize how difficult this really is. This is the guy that will do the work, and you will see, he's been down this road before so I'm confident he'll do a good job. http://www.pladewerket.dk/type-3-1500-n-variant/ |
Looks like he's done most of what you need done, so I think you'll be in good hands. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:59 am Post subject: |
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I have been cutting mine straight down & thru the box tubing like Joel. The box tubing gets tricky to cut out, so I'm not sure he will want to try and weld it back in. Easier for the welder to cut out just above the box tubing on the work bench & throw the box tubing section away?
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:18 am Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| I have been cutting mine straight down & thru the box tubing like Joel. The box tubing gets tricky to cut out, so I'm not sure he will want to try and weld it back in. Easier for the welder to cut out just above the box tubing on the work bench & throw the box tubing section away? |
The customer can drill out the spot welds, and trim the fuel tank braces/brackets and it should fit like normal.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:52 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| I have been cutting mine straight down & thru the box tubing like Joel. The box tubing gets tricky to cut out, so I'm not sure he will want to try and weld it back in. Easier for the welder to cut out just above the box tubing on the work bench & throw the box tubing section away? |
The customer can drill out the spot welds, and trim the fuel tank braces/brackets and it should fit like normal. |
Here is a photo from the inside...not sure I would need to go down to the fuel tank braces to get to good metal. It's very good below the previous repair seam. The rust you see on the support brace is gone now and it's solid. This is why I was thinking of just finding repair sections to replace the PO's patch job. Ugh wish I had a welder and some space in the garage! Would love to learn a new skill and do this myself...
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:19 am Post subject: |
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| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| I have been cutting mine straight down & thru the box tubing like Joel. The box tubing gets tricky to cut out, so I'm not sure he will want to try and weld it back in. Easier for the welder to cut out just above the box tubing on the work bench & throw the box tubing section away? |
The customer can drill out the spot welds, and trim the fuel tank braces/brackets and it should fit like normal. |
Here is a photo from the inside...not sure I would need to go down to the fuel tank braces to get to good metal. It's very good below the previous repair seam. The rust you see on the support brace is gone now and it's solid. This is why I was thinking of just finding repair sections to replace the PO's patch job. Ugh wish I had a welder and some space in the garage! Would love to learn a new skill and do this myself...
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In your case, you could have the pieces cut down to the the fuel tank supports and then trim off what you don't need. It'll weigh less for shipping. You'll probably need some of the rear part of that section though.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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savannen beige
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2008
Posts: 12
Location: denmark
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| Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Hello David
Jeg tager den lige på dansk jeg har varmerkanaler,1mellem panel,1 ydre panel.1 forspids
Jeg boer i Ebeltoft
Kasper Tlf 23230220 kun om aftenen pga natarbejde |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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| savannen beige wrote: |
Hello David
Jeg tager den lige på dansk jeg har varmerkanaler,1mellem panel,1 ydre panel.1 forspids
Jeg boer i Ebeltoft
Kasper Tlf 23230220 kun om aftenen pga natarbejde |
Hej Kasper
Det lyder godt! Jeg ringer til dig efter påske. Det ville være alletiders at finde delene i Danmark!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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