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Which is power, which is ground
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Maxoceanblue
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 12:10 pm    Post subject: Which is power, which is ground Reply with quote

Got these fog lights, they came with two wires attached, a white and a red one. I assumed the white was the ground and the red was the power.

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When I opened the lamp to find out the wattage of the bulb I found this:
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To me it looks like the red is the ground and the white is the power. Am I correct or wrong? Does it matter if I get them switched?
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60ragtop
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes it looks like red is ground and no you don't want to mix them up unless you want to fail the smoke test Laughing
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tasb wrote:
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.


sb001 wrote:
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked Wink
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Maxoceanblue
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks. I guess I should open up the other one just to make sure one is different than the other.
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60ragtop
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes that would be a good idea to check the other one. I've seen the same parts wired different Rolling Eyes
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Rick
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tasb wrote:
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.


sb001 wrote:
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked Wink
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The white lead looks like just the extension of the bulb's wire, which is typically white from the woven insulation they usually have for better heat resistance. The mistake is the red ground wire, which should be brown (preferably, or black) to signify ground.
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Jon Schmid
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 2:06 pm    Post subject: Which is power, which is ground Reply with quote

That crimp job on the red wire is interesting. I would prefer to have the lower part of the lug crimped directly onto the copper conductor. The upper crimp on the insulation is fine as it is for strain relief. Just my opinion.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Which is power, which is ground Reply with quote

Jon Schmid wrote:
That crimp job on the red wire is interesting. I would prefer to have the lower part of the lug crimped directly onto the copper conductor. The upper crimp on the insulation is fine as it is for strain relief. Just my opinion.

Correct and another reason to replace that wire. Sloppy.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VERY sloppy crimp job !!!
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Harleyelf
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is beyond sloppy, it is a defect for class 1, 2, or 3 IPC standards. The insulation must end in the window between the insulation fingers and the contact wings of the connector. To have insulation crimped into the contact wings is a clear defect... at the least, solder it up; at best, replace the connector.

Might it be English, wired for positive earth systems like Lucas loved to use?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harleyelf wrote:
Might it be English, wired for positive earth systems like Lucas loved to use?


Lucas? Explains a lot...

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gt1953
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would use a VOM (volt ohm meter) and check continuity between lamp case and one of the leads. It appears to be a sealed beam lamps. Not sure could not get past the crimp job. Oh Lucas hmmm.
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Jon Schmid
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:52 pm    Post subject: Which is power, which is ground Reply with quote

Harleyelf wrote:
That is beyond sloppy, it is a defect for class 1, 2, or 3 IPC standards. The insulation must end in the window between the insulation fingers and the contact wings of the connector. To have insulation crimped into the contact wings is a clear defect... at the least, solder it up; at best, replace the connector.

Might it be English, wired for positive earth systems like Lucas loved to use?


Guys, I didn't mean to unleash an IPC based anal attack on the crimp joint, just a simple observation that it could be done better, that's all. The light isn't going into a freaking satellite, now, is it? Wink
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Maxoceanblue
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I've already hooked them up without reading about all the crimping discussion. Works fine so far. If they should fail I'll be sure to check "the crimp"

Thanks all.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A high resistance connection will get hot. Maybe hot enough to ruin your light. Have you installed a fuse and relay? If not you can toast your switch and maybe do more serious damage.
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old_n_slo
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gt1953 wrote:
It appears to be a sealed beam lamps.


Its not a sealed beam.
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vwpackrat
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

id replace the ground with a black wire just for the fact the red is so bright and ugly and also so you dont have a splice connection outside the car. Run full lenghth wires all the way to fuse panel.
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hitest
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree- establish some sense right now (or slip on some cheap black shrink tube)- so a roadside repair in the dark makes more sense later. The spade on the bulb's plus wire is easy- it's so whatever hot lead is running to it- it has a shielded female spade- so no accidental shorting (cause you know how people are so good about working with electrical while the battery and accessories are hot).

I can't believe nobody has addressed that ridiculous crimp job! Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lucas - Prince of Darkness - ha, ha, ha!!! Haven't heard that since I weaned myself from my brief (yet unproductive) daliance with British Leyland cars. I tried once to trace down a wiring fault in a 70's Jag XJ 12. When I removed the console, it seemed like EVERY single connection had a label with someone's name on it. When I found the issue, it seems that a bloke named Robert didn't know jack sh*t from peanut butter about connecting dual fuel tanks selector switches.
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Maxoceanblue
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea I used a fuse and relay and shrink wrapped the connections.
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