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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
You do it from below laying under the bus between the wheels (after you disconnect the battery!), you remove the nut (#13) and the nipple (#10) and then pull the screen and sealing washer (#11) out of the hole in the bottom of the tank, follow the fuel line from above the LH heat exchanger outlet across the top of the transmission to above the starter to find it.
Did I mention to disconnect the battery before proceeding yet?
You'll also want to be prepared for a gas shower even if the tank is drained as that #10 nipple sticks up an few inches into the tank, expect a quart or 2 to come out.
Oh yeah....disconnect the battery! |
Performed this task today and it went surprisingly smooth. I recommend eye protection - had I not been wearing any, I would have gotten some gas in my eye for sure. The filter looked good, a little rust colored debris in there, but not nearly as bad as I expected. Thanks again busdaddy for the detailed instructions! I put some clean gas in there, shook vigorously and drained again.
I'm working on getting some pics uploaded right now. |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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A frontal shot of the engine bay.
The sediment from today's fuel tank drain
A cool sticker. My birth year!
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sambabus Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2009 Posts: 324 Location: N. Cal
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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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At least you have a header. Better plug the heater tube holes, they will suck hot air off the header and run it through your motor. The tighter seal you have the better, plug the holes...
I guess the easy way would be to install the heater tubes again. _________________ 1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358 |
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Rushka VW racing Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2014 Posts: 1 Location: Ny
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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:24 pm Post subject: Homework on parts |
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grandpa pete wrote: |
Welcome to the samba.....Read the build threads....learn how to do a search.....ask questions...........and if your not having fun with your project ; walk away for a couple of days.......my 69 took 3 years....... |
Get busy on replacement parts I have owned a 68 for over 20 years and the pickings are sliming out. |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:50 am Post subject: |
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Well, every routine job seems to uncover a bigger project!
The gas pedal seemed sticky and unresponsive, so I looked underneath and it appears to be a shoddy repair job on the accelerator cable. The cable running from the engine is about 12 inches too short, and there is another accelerator cable hooked onto it in the reverse way then clamped onto the pedal assembly with about 6 feet of cable tangled around it in the classic boyscout knot the birds nest!
I enjoyed reading up on accelerator cable, especially the 9000 busdaddy posts about how to unhook the sleeve above the transmission to get the cable to slide through that area. That appears to be a common roadblock!
I'm thinking about replacing the pedal and assembly while I'm at it. It looks a little bent. I'm worried because it looks tough to remove, but I'll clean through all that rust and filth and see what I see.
I also pulled out the closet running along the back seat so I could clean behind it. It's not in the greatest shape, and I think I'd like the visibility of seeing out of that window. I'll save the hardware, but the further I dig, it looks like everything is going to have to come out and the subfloor should be replaced. I know, worthless without pictures! I'll get some more soon. |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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I've been hard at work on a couple projects - one to help make her go, and another to help make her stop. I'm feeling stuck at the moment.
I replaced the accelerator cable and added a flexible guide between the end of the solid pipe and the firewall, using some guidance I found in this forum. I'm a little concerned about a couple things.
1. I can't find enough information about how the cable connects to the gas pedal assembly. This thread mentions fabricating something, but doesn't show the attached hook that came with the cable, I'm assuming it was removed. [url] http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=432157&highlight=accelerator+cable [/url]
I went ahead and opened up the hook with pliers and attached it then closed it back up.
Did I hook it up to the right spot? Because I'm still not getting the throttle to move at the engine when I pump the gas. Is there an adjustment procedure?
I ran into some trouble with the tube I installed behind the fan housing. I used a brass hose fitting to get it through the firewall, but it doesn't quite line up with the solid tube on the engine side. Is this an issue? Should I redo this differently? I'd love to clamp something back there to hold it in line but can't really fit my hands in that space.
Behind the firewall:
The other thing I've been working on are the brakes. I replaced the rubber grommets that hold the reservoir to the master cylinder. The hose that connnects this reservoir going toward the cab to the is badly corroded. Is this something I can order or do I just go shopping and find a hose? What material is resistant to brake fluid?
Thank you in advance for your advice. I'm sure this will go quicker as I continue to learn, but for now I'm feeling stuck |
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sambabus Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2009 Posts: 324 Location: N. Cal
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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You should make friends with BusDepot.com _________________ 1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358 |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Campin68 wrote: |
I ran into some trouble with the tube I installed behind the fan housing. I used a brass hose fitting to get it through the firewall, but it doesn't quite line up with the solid tube on the engine side. Is this an issue? Should I redo this differently? I'd love to clamp something back there to hold it in line but can't really fit my hands in that space.
Behind the firewall: |
The tube through the fan shroud is too sort or not pushed through all the way, it should extend out the flywheel tin ~1/2" or more. That brass fitting looks like trouble. Home depot and other building supply stores sell a milky white plastic tube (PEX?) in assorted sizes, the stuff that's ~1/2" OD slips over that tube as well as the one on the body nicely and is stiff but slippery, perfect for throttle tubes.
As for cable adjustment pull it back as far as you can with pliers through the bug nut on the carb arm and tighten the bolt, then put a brick on the gas pedal and confirm there's still 1 mm between the wide open stop on the carb and the arm, if it's hitting loosen the cable slightly and repeat. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:01 am Post subject: |
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This is where the cable enters the engine bay from under the bus:
Should the tube be sticking out of this hole?
I can try to push the tube out, but I get the feeling it's not going to move. Another option is to open this hole up just a little bit so the hose can fit through.
I appreciate the help. |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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Update:
I got the hard pipe through the firewall so the accelerator cable lines up fine.
I did notice the fuel line running from the gas tank outlet was rigged in a way I was not so comfortable with though...
It'a a rubber hose which runs around the firewall, wedged through the rubber seal on the edge. In my research it should be a metal tube running through a hole on the driver's side of the firewall. Is it a 6 or 8 mm. tube I should be looking for or does it matter? Wolfsberg West has both available.
I'm planning to get this metal tube and replace the old rubber on both ends, then get my carburetor rebuild. Then I might get her started _________________ I'm doing all of this for the first time.
Rita, '68 Camper |
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Desertbusman Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 14655 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 11:42 pm Post subject: |
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This is the correct steel fuel line
https://www.google.com/search?q=113127521A&hl=...0&sa=N
As you can see in BusDepots listing it was used on about every T-1 engine.
As far as the flex throttle cable bowden tube this goes from the chassis to the steel tube sticking forward thru the front tin. Sadly, most buses don't have them because they got lost. http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Throttle_cable_bowden_tube_for_VW_p/113721551.htm
And this is the steel throttle cable tube that goes thru the fan shroud and forward thru the front tin. http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Throttle_tube_for_VW_accelerator_cables_p/043129893.htm
Although I have a doghouse shroud the steel throttle cable tube extends thru the front tin so the bowden tube can connect to it. I have an extension on mine for some other purpose and also a hose clamp
to keep the tube correctly positioned.
On the rear side of the shroud where the cable comes out of the tube to connect to the carb you need to pay attention to the alignment. So the cable isn't rubbing against the tube opening. Otherwise it will wear and cut into the tube. I usually need to put a gentle long bend in the tube so the cable comes out centered. _________________ 71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:32 am Post subject: |
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Great information! Thank you.
I'm waiting for a sunny day to get her outside and take some pictures. I'm pretty sure that would be more entertaining than Mechanic 101 repair help posts
I'm going to get the carb rebuilt and new brake hoses for each wheel, then I'm looking to start her up. _________________ I'm doing all of this for the first time.
Rita, '68 Camper |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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Beautiful Easter Sunday in Western Washington. I rolled Rita out into the driveway to take some photos and do some scrubbing.
I have no idea what's going on with the secondary ignition, but it doesn't look kosher
Looking forward to the VW meetup in Bellevue next Sunday! _________________ I'm doing all of this for the first time.
Rita, '68 Camper |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2014 9:58 am Post subject: |
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I haven't been posting, but hard at work.
I replaced the accelerator cable, pedal and linkage, and added a tube on the back half.
I had the carb rebuilt, added a new fuel pump, metal fuel line, and all new hoses.
I've replaced the rear brake hoses, and one of the two sets of rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. This is a tough one, my hands are aching.
Once I get all four sets of brake shoes replaced, and bleed the system, I'm gonna try to start her for the first time.
I also discovered that the steering damper is snapped in two. That's on the list now
Thanks again to everyone who has posted to help me out, or posted in the past as searching this forum has helped me so much when I'm stuck and neither Bentley or Muir has an answer. _________________ I'm doing all of this for the first time.
Rita, '68 Camper |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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Finally, we have brakes!
All new wheel cylinders front and back, brake hoses, replaced one brake line, both reservoirs and they're working. It only took me 2 months
I did have to use a 69-70 upper reservoir, as the 68 doesn't seem to be available.
I shortened the metal line and attached with EPDM rubber tubing, which is supposed to have good resistance to brake fluid. I'd like to attach the reservoir more firmly, as it slides around a bit in the wider bracket from the old reservoir. I haven't figured out the best way to do that. Any ideas? My first guess would be a small piece of wood with a circular metal strap.
Next up for me is to get a new ignition switch. The one on there will crank the motor but the only other station is "off" It also has a secondary hack that I don't even want to bother with trying to figure out. This one is for the professionals. I have to start saving up. _________________ I'm doing all of this for the first time.
Rita, '68 Camper |
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Campin68 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Issaquah, WA
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:23 am Post subject: |
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_________________ I'm doing all of this for the first time.
Rita, '68 Camper |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:05 am Post subject: |
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I missed this thread....now im watching. Ill meet you soon im sure. Coming to vintage meet saturday? North seattle cc _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:36 am Post subject: |
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Gives you the options.
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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