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1968 Camper revitalization!
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Campin68
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Location: Issaquah, WA
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:

You do it from below laying under the bus between the wheels (after you disconnect the battery!), you remove the nut (#13) and the nipple (#10) and then pull the screen and sealing washer (#11&#12) out of the hole in the bottom of the tank, follow the fuel line from above the LH heat exchanger outlet across the top of the transmission to above the starter to find it.
Did I mention to disconnect the battery before proceeding yet?
You'll also want to be prepared for a gas shower even if the tank is drained as that #10 nipple sticks up an few inches into the tank, expect a quart or 2 to come out.
Oh yeah....disconnect the battery!


Performed this task today and it went surprisingly smooth. I recommend eye protection - had I not been wearing any, I would have gotten some gas in my eye for sure. The filter looked good, a little rust colored debris in there, but not nearly as bad as I expected. Thanks again busdaddy for the detailed instructions! I put some clean gas in there, shook vigorously and drained again.

I'm working on getting some pics uploaded right now.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A frontal shot of the engine bay.
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The sediment from today's fuel tank drain
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A cool sticker. My birth year! Razz
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least you have a header. Better plug the heater tube holes, they will suck hot air off the header and run it through your motor. The tighter seal you have the better, plug the holes...

I guess the easy way would be to install the heater tubes again.
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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Rushka VW racing
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:24 pm    Post subject: Homework on parts Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
Welcome to the samba.....Read the build threads....learn how to do a search.....ask questions...........and if your not having fun with your project ; walk away for a couple of days.......my 69 took 3 years....... Cool
Get busy on replacement parts I have owned a 68 for over 20 years and the pickings are sliming out.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, every routine job seems to uncover a bigger project!

The gas pedal seemed sticky and unresponsive, so I looked underneath and it appears to be a shoddy repair job on the accelerator cable. The cable running from the engine is about 12 inches too short, and there is another accelerator cable hooked onto it in the reverse way then clamped onto the pedal assembly with about 6 feet of cable tangled around it in the classic boyscout knot the birds nest!

I enjoyed reading up on accelerator cable, especially the 9000 busdaddy posts about how to unhook the sleeve above the transmission to get the cable to slide through that area. That appears to be a common roadblock!

I'm thinking about replacing the pedal and assembly while I'm at it. It looks a little bent. I'm worried because it looks tough to remove, but I'll clean through all that rust and filth and see what I see.

I also pulled out the closet running along the back seat so I could clean behind it. It's not in the greatest shape, and I think I'd like the visibility of seeing out of that window. I'll save the hardware, but the further I dig, it looks like everything is going to have to come out and the subfloor should be replaced. I know, worthless without pictures! I'll get some more soon.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been hard at work on a couple projects - one to help make her go, and another to help make her stop. I'm feeling stuck at the moment.

I replaced the accelerator cable and added a flexible guide between the end of the solid pipe and the firewall, using some guidance I found in this forum. I'm a little concerned about a couple things.

1. I can't find enough information about how the cable connects to the gas pedal assembly. This thread mentions fabricating something, but doesn't show the attached hook that came with the cable, I'm assuming it was removed. [url] http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=432157&highlight=accelerator+cable [/url]

I went ahead and opened up the hook with pliers and attached it then closed it back up.
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Did I hook it up to the right spot? Because I'm still not getting the throttle to move at the engine when I pump the gas. Is there an adjustment procedure?

I ran into some trouble with the tube I installed behind the fan housing. I used a brass hose fitting to get it through the firewall, but it doesn't quite line up with the solid tube on the engine side. Is this an issue? Should I redo this differently? I'd love to clamp something back there to hold it in line but can't really fit my hands in that space.

Behind the firewall:
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The other thing I've been working on are the brakes. I replaced the rubber grommets that hold the reservoir to the master cylinder. The hose that connnects this reservoir going toward the cab to the is badly corroded. Is this something I can order or do I just go shopping and find a hose? What material is resistant to brake fluid?

Thank you in advance for your advice. I'm sure this will go quicker as I continue to learn, but for now I'm feeling stuck Confused
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should make friends with BusDepot.com
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusDepot.com and I have a customer/retailer relationship, I doubt it will blossom into anything more Razz

I did find some advice on adjusting the accelerator cable here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=430112
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campin68 wrote:
I ran into some trouble with the tube I installed behind the fan housing. I used a brass hose fitting to get it through the firewall, but it doesn't quite line up with the solid tube on the engine side. Is this an issue? Should I redo this differently? I'd love to clamp something back there to hold it in line but can't really fit my hands in that space.

Behind the firewall:
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The tube through the fan shroud is too sort or not pushed through all the way, it should extend out the flywheel tin ~1/2" or more. That brass fitting looks like trouble. Home depot and other building supply stores sell a milky white plastic tube (PEX?) in assorted sizes, the stuff that's ~1/2" OD slips over that tube as well as the one on the body nicely and is stiff but slippery, perfect for throttle tubes.
As for cable adjustment pull it back as far as you can with pliers through the bug nut on the carb arm and tighten the bolt, then put a brick on the gas pedal and confirm there's still 1 mm between the wide open stop on the carb and the arm, if it's hitting loosen the cable slightly and repeat.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is where the cable enters the engine bay from under the bus:

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Should the tube be sticking out of this hole?

I can try to push the tube out, but I get the feeling it's not going to move. Another option is to open this hole up just a little bit so the hose can fit through.

I appreciate the help.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:
I got the hard pipe through the firewall so the accelerator cable lines up fine.
I did notice the fuel line running from the gas tank outlet was rigged in a way I was not so comfortable with though...

It'a a rubber hose which runs around the firewall, wedged through the rubber seal on the edge. In my research it should be a metal tube running through a hole on the driver's side of the firewall. Is it a 6 or 8 mm. tube I should be looking for or does it matter? Wolfsberg West has both available.

I'm planning to get this metal tube and replace the old rubber on both ends, then get my carburetor rebuild. Then I might get her started Smile
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Rita, '68 Camper
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the correct steel fuel line
https://www.google.com/search?q=113127521A&hl=...0&sa=N
As you can see in BusDepots listing it was used on about every T-1 engine.

As far as the flex throttle cable bowden tube this goes from the chassis to the steel tube sticking forward thru the front tin. Sadly, most buses don't have them because they got lost. http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Throttle_cable_bowden_tube_for_VW_p/113721551.htm
And this is the steel throttle cable tube that goes thru the fan shroud and forward thru the front tin. http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Throttle_tube_for_VW_accelerator_cables_p/043129893.htm

Although I have a doghouse shroud the steel throttle cable tube extends thru the front tin so the bowden tube can connect to it. I have an extension on mine for some other purpose and also a hose clamp
to keep the tube correctly positioned.

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On the rear side of the shroud where the cable comes out of the tube to connect to the carb you need to pay attention to the alignment. So the cable isn't rubbing against the tube opening. Otherwise it will wear and cut into the tube. I usually need to put a gentle long bend in the tube so the cable comes out centered.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great information! Thank you.

I'm waiting for a sunny day to get her outside and take some pictures. I'm pretty sure that would be more entertaining than Mechanic 101 repair help posts Very Happy

I'm going to get the carb rebuilt and new brake hoses for each wheel, then I'm looking to start her up.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful Easter Sunday in Western Washington. I rolled Rita out into the driveway to take some photos and do some scrubbing.

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I have no idea what's going on with the secondary ignition, but it doesn't look kosher Confused
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Looking forward to the VW meetup in Bellevue next Sunday!
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't been posting, but hard at work.

I replaced the accelerator cable, pedal and linkage, and added a tube on the back half.

I had the carb rebuilt, added a new fuel pump, metal fuel line, and all new hoses.

I've replaced the rear brake hoses, and one of the two sets of rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. This is a tough one, my hands are aching.

Once I get all four sets of brake shoes replaced, and bleed the system, I'm gonna try to start her for the first time.

I also discovered that the steering damper is snapped in two. That's on the list now Very Happy

Thanks again to everyone who has posted to help me out, or posted in the past as searching this forum has helped me so much when I'm stuck and neither Bentley or Muir has an answer.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally, we have brakes!

All new wheel cylinders front and back, brake hoses, replaced one brake line, both reservoirs and they're working. It only took me 2 months Rolling Eyes

I did have to use a 69-70 upper reservoir, as the 68 doesn't seem to be available.
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I shortened the metal line and attached with EPDM rubber tubing, which is supposed to have good resistance to brake fluid. I'd like to attach the reservoir more firmly, as it slides around a bit in the wider bracket from the old reservoir. I haven't figured out the best way to do that. Any ideas? My first guess would be a small piece of wood with a circular metal strap.

Next up for me is to get a new ignition switch. The one on there will crank the motor but the only other station is "off" It also has a secondary hack that I don't even want to bother with trying to figure out. This one is for the professionals. I have to start saving up.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I missed this thread....now im watching. Ill meet you soon im sure. Coming to vintage meet saturday? North seattle cc
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gives you the options.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What parts are '68 only?

Tcash wrote:
Here is a little information. Good Luck

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Early Baywindow Bus Parts Book
Late Baywindow Bus Parts Fiche
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Model and Year Variations
Type 4: Secrets Revealed
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There is a ton of information located at the top of the Forum section.
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