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Air Ride without changing Beam?
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dpetteng
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:35 pm    Post subject: Air Ride without changing Beam? Reply with quote

Been thinking about my square. Has anyone used air shocks on a standard type 3 beam by changing the torsion bars? Just an idea?....
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I kept the beam as is. What I did was to lower the front as low as I want and use the air shocks to lift the car. Works fine so far. Not sure what psi is needed to lift the front because i'm using a height based system, accuair.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the issue is the torsion spring will need to be secured in the beam. There was an article about modifying the torsion springs & putting in a bearing to allow rotation. If you search through the posts on air rides you will see the issues. "If it was easy everybody would do it" good luck
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Cracker_box
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i rock air shocks on the front, with the bars still in place like stated above.

rides great. i'm lowered to about an inch of beam clearance when airred out for saftey reasons.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

i got rid of the black plastic fitting and stepped up to a 5/16th push lock air line.

dont have any photos of the new fittings.

i've been driving on this setup for over a year now. no problems.
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Yabbadubbadoo
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I bought my car it had never been involved in a crash but it had a cracked shock tower that had been welded and gussetted with a plate. It was a country car so I suspect it had seen its fair share of cattle grates and pot holes but still I have proof that they can crack just under the top shock mount. I have since changed the front beam but my concern with using the towers for air spring load is that they might not be entirely strong enough lifting a load + dampening as opposed to just being there for dampening. I'd say keep an eye on it and keep that area clean so you can spot cracks if they start to develop.
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dpetteng
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice, I love the simplicity of using air shocks without any other changes. What shocks did you use?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look like Munroe shocks. I have a set that I was going to use on my type 1 beam conversion
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using the MONROE MA785 shocks. I forget, but I think I removed the metal and rubber bushing from the OEM shock and put it into the Monroe shocks.
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type3nut64
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get a lot more lift if you take out the torsion bars and grind down the splines off one end. grind the end on the opposite side of the control arm. get some bearings and a longer bolt to hold the torsion in and you have free floating system. you can get 8 inches of lift with right air shock setup.

you can see what i did in this pic. look at the beam and you can see where the bearing is.

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930
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

type3nut64 wrote:
You can get a lot more lift if you take out the torsion bars and grind down the splines off one end. grind the end on the opposite side of the control arm. get some bearings and a longer bolt to hold the torsion in and you have free floating system. you can get 8 inches of lift with right air shock setup.

you can see what i did in this pic. look at the beam and you can see where the bearing is.


Are You using Monroe shocks? If not care to share brand & model of the shocks You're using.

Thanks!
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type3nut64
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My set up was a little more involved. The beam was raised and the shock towers were raised/extended and I used full size truck rear shock. Actually I think they ere for a mid 80s suburban. With all the work I did I had about 10-12 inches of lift. And minimal psi in the air shocks. Hope that helps.
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dpetteng
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

type3nut64 wrote:
My set up was a little more involved. The beam was raised and the shock towers were raised/extended and I used full size truck rear shock. Actually I think they ere for a mid 80s suburban. With all the work I did I had about 10-12 inches of lift. And minimal psi in the air shocks. Hope that helps.


Any more pics of the end of the torsion rod and bearing set up?
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type3nut64
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry no just what was in my gallery. I dont have the car any more either. I actually took the torsions out and had a machine shop put them on a laith and smooth them out to near perfection. My buddy woked at a place that built industrial oven for powder coating and we used bearing from there doors. really heavy duty. but you dont hav eto all that. a grinder a good bearing and som elock tite will do the trick.
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dpetteng
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So anyone tried putting a pancake tank in the bulge in front of the spare wheel? Looks like it will fit and then you can have everything up front?
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dpetteng
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

supersuk, which accuair system do you use? do they have one just for the front?
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Yabbadubbadoo
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dpetteng wrote:
So anyone tried putting a pancake tank in the bulge in front of the spare wheel? Looks like it will fit and then you can have everything up front?


I call those things 'warheads'.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL I see what you mean... was trying to find a way to keep under the hood nice and clean without running the lines from the back
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a system similar to this one:

http://www.accuair.com/airmanagementproducts/e-level-air-management-package-w-rocker-switch-3

I put the system together myself which came out a little cheaper. Instead of one compressor, i'm using two. I'm controlling all 4 corners with the vu4 valve, but if you want to control only the front, then you want the vu2.
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dpetteng
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyone seen a good quality auto levelling 2 way system for this kinda thing?
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markpetersonii
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supersuk wrote:
I used a system similar to this one:

http://www.accuair.com/airmanagementproducts/e-level-air-management-package-w-rocker-switch-3

I put the system together myself which came out a little cheaper. Instead of one compressor, i'm using two. I'm controlling all 4 corners with the vu4 valve, but if you want to control only the front, then you want the vu2.


It's good to read this, mainly because I contacted AccuAir and they recommended me to get the beams swapped and referred me to Punch Drunk Customs, which specializes in air-ride VWs. I sent them an email about a week ago and still no response. Oh well. Their loss.

If I can do it without the need to swap the beams I'd be all over it. I still want to use AccuAir's system. Everything I saw at an open house they were at, I liked.
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