Need Buggy Engine Rebuilding Advice

[rmckay]

I need some engine advice for my buggy. It currently has a pretty much stock 1500 engine, which is getting very tired. I noticed at the end of last year that it was smoking from cylinders 1 and 2. When I took it out for the first ride of the season last week, it was worse, no doubt from sitting over the winter. Anyway, I've decided it needs at least a partial rebuild, so I'm going to replace the pistons and cylinders myself and have a valve job done locally.

So my question is, with this currently being a 1500, is there any reason not to upgrade it to a 1600 with a 85.5mm piston kit, or even a 1641 with a 87mm kit? Will the stock H30/31 PICT Solex be enough carb for either of these kits? I don't claim to be a mechanic, so I want to keep it pretty much stock to keep it easy. (I don't want dual carbs at this point)

Also, while it's apart, I'm going to replace the manifold since the previous owner cut off the heat riser tubes, which from what I have been reading here lately, is not a good thing.

I'm ready to order parts, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Rick
_________________
-------------------------
63 California Clipper

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

[joescoolcustoms]

A buddy had a 1641 dual port with a 30/31 carb and after upping the main jet size, the full body sedan was really quick and ran well. A lot of the bus guys swear by a 1641 single port as a torque producing engine in a heavy bus.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[weasel_ugs]

I would go 1641 and since your replacing the intake move up to a 34PICT carb.

[manxdavid]

Don't spend any money on the top end unless you're sure that the bottom end is 100% OK, ie crank endfloat within factory spec. and good oil pressure. A worn crank/case won't last long under a new top end.

If all's OK then either 1600 or 1641 will be fine, very little difference in performance between them though so let your wallet be your guide, don't bother with 1641s if they cost a lot of $$$ more than 1600s.

Your current carb will run great.

[didget69]

The difference in 85.5 to 87 P&C setup is negligible; I'd go with a 1600 setup & spend the bucks on a set of Forged 85.5 pistons & check block/bottom-end thoroughly before committing to the 1500 case. BTW: What case do you have?

bnc
_________________
I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door.

[rmckay]

[manxdavid]

The VW / circle arrow logo on the left of that number denotes that it was a genuine VW exchange unit at one time.

[drs1023]

My 1600 with a 30/31 carb runs well in my kit car. I have a points 009 distributor. It's a good combination in a stock-ish lightweight car.