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Steering column alignment question.
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Bluemanx
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:39 pm    Post subject: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

I'm replacing a cracked dash on an original '69 Manx. I've dealt with several VWs and after 45 years of wishing I am starting on refurbishing a Manx buggy. I am NOT doing a body off restoration, just redoing the necessary items to make this a nice ride. Overall it's in great shape and has been stored for 20+ years.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I know.... the hard top goes on the outside in back, just another example of the original build.
So far, I have taken the hard top, windshield, headlights, dash and hood off. The gas tank has been professionally cleaned and coated. New fuel line has been ran. ALL of the old wiring has been ripped out and I will build my own harness with what I've learned here on Samba (I visit every day).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I plan on replacing all of the brake components and replacing the steering box, as it is leaking, otherwise the front end seems to be good. There are US Indy Mags all around, 15x10 on the back and 15x8.5 on the front. I will try to make a trade in the future so I can put the 8.5s on the back and run 7s on the front. The current combination is just a little fat for me.
I'm currently replacing the ABS dash with one I received from Minnie and correcting the dash/windshield frame position.
So here's what I'm up against now and the QUESTION I've got for today:
If I line up the steering column during a mock up, things don't line up. Can I elongate vertically, the hole in the firewall/bulkhead so that the steering column is in the correct place on the dash. I have rotated the steering box to better align with the column per the original Manx installation instructions.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Location for steering column in new dash.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

existing location of column thru bulkhead. I need to move it down about 1/2 inch to make things line up properly. Thanks for any help.
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Short answer is yes you can elongate the hole. I try to do it to the fire wall end not the dash end so you don't see it. BUT you must fit a cover plate when you do this so that the steering column outer has a support point.

Depending on what year column you have this may also effect your indicator setup.

The current Manx kits come with a three bolt bracket that covers the area and retains a custom grommet. Using a similar setup you get a bit more room for movement and when you are happy with it you can screw it in place.

Make sure you get correct alignment or it will rub and grind.

I would also avoid loosening your steering box and rotating it from stock as if you do it will give you more bump steer and create other issues.

This is the alignment you don't want

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the bracket, which should be bolted to the front wall and have the factory steering grommet fitted. What happens then is when it is bolted up tight the rubber gets squashed between it and the fiberglass and closes in tight.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Another common trend is to bolt a right angle bracket to the wall and then use a large hose clamp or muffler clamp around it and the column outer shell.

I hope that helps, if you need more pictures let me know I have a few buggies with bonnets off at the moment.

If you get stuck we also sell a Clam Plate which is in two pieces and you simply slide it together front top and bottom and bolt it to the wall. This way you can put it on when you are happy and not have to remember before you put your column in.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:49 am    Post subject: Re: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

Bluemanx wrote:
I plan on replacing all of the brake components and replacing the steering box, as it is leaking, otherwise the front end seems to be good. There are US Indy Mags all around, 15x10 on the back and 15x8.5 on the front. I will try to make a trade in the future so I can put the 8.5s on the back and run 7s on the front. The current combination is just a little fat for me.
I'm currently replacing the ABS dash with one I received from Minnie and correcting the dash/windshield frame position.


Unless you already have a new steering gearbox, try just draining the oil and packing it with Moly CV type grease(like the new TRW boxes use). Remove the top by removing the bolts and turning the adjuster screw in.

Definitely agree with the plan for the rims. It will drive much better. What year trans do you have, what is your plan for brakes?

Another option for correcting steering column mis-alignment is to modify the steering column to use U-joints like on the Rabbit. You can add a second bearing at the bottom of the original tube to keep the upper shaft straight in the tube. Its also safer than the solid shaft and less bulky than the Chinese finger puzzle type column

Your Manx is a great find, definitely a good plan to keep it original. Also, Mrs Manx name is Winnie.
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Bluemanx
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, I try to read and search before asking and the answer's usually out there, but I couldn't find this one and I was getting frustrated with the alignment. Iguana, that's some relief to know about the brackets, I'm pretty good at turning a wrench but don't weld. If you would, send me a PM with more info and maybe picts of the clam plate.
BL3Manx, I do like the idea of the u joints but like I said, I don't weld so I'm not very good on the fab end of things. Maybe I could have a buddy or shop do this for me. I have read about packing the box with grease but did not know it would apply to my situation, I'll try that before I spend 100+ bucks on a new box.
Question Bump Steer; what exactly is that? and I've read here it can be corrected with caster shims, no?
Yes I'll try to trade the 2 10" US Indy Mags on craig's list after I polish them up and see what happens, there should be a rodder out there just waiting for them.
Every thing on the pan is a '62 except the engine (74 dp) so the gearbox is swing axle, the Manx has most of the original options, front bumper, roll bar, skid plate and rear bar. I'm thinking of getting new 5x4.5 drilled drums for the back to tuck the tires in a little more but they don't seem available for the fronts. I don't want to go to the expense of disk up front and have heard here they're not needed. I've also read about putting front wheel cylinders on the rear to increase pressure where it's needed. The dash and wiring is next, so it will be a while, giving me time to learn and think about the brakes.
Winnie .... and Bruce .... I knew that Smile Late and tired I guess.
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andygere
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I second the request for info on the clamshell bulkhead fitting. Photos and where to buy would be great!
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bluemanx wrote:
Question Bump Steer; what exactly is that? and I've read here it can be corrected with caster shims, no?
Yes I'll try to trade the 2 10" US Indy Mags on craig's list after I polish them up and see what happens, there should be a rodder out there just waiting for them.


Sadly enough I am a little short on pictures but will try and explain.

Bump steer refers to the automatic steering effect felt when the wheels hit a bump thus going up and thus potentially changing the tie rod length and pushing the wheel on the other side or itself and thus steering or causing the car to dart across the road.

You see when suspension cylces it is a heap of triangles and changing lengths of one side effects the other.

When the smart German dude designed the front end thy put the steering box on a particular angle with a particular shaped pitman arm so that the wheel can go up and down and the tie rod swings in an acr which does not vary its length. When you change the angle of the steering box you effect all this geometry.

A stock VW BJ front end has ZERO bump steer throughout full travel.

That being said here is the google answer which is probably much better than my dribble


Link


I will take a Buggy Steering Clam Shell out and take some pictures and post them up tonight.
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

andygere wrote:
I second the request for info on the clamshell bulkhead fitting. Photos and where to buy would be great!


Oops forgot to post pictures. Here is the half shell as I call it which uses a screw clamp to hold it all in place and then bolts through the fibreglass. Using these allows you to hold the column where it needs to be and stop it from turning.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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andygere
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the photo. Did you make or buy that bracket?
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jhoefer
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iguana wrote:
A stock VW BJ front end has ZERO bump steer throughout full travel.


The VW does have bump steer. The inner tie rod is fixed in place (held by the steering box), the outer tie rod moves in an arc, moving it closer to the centerline of the car as it moves up or down from horizontal. Because both ball joints on the spindle can only move vertically and not left/right as the suspension moves up and down (due to it being a trailing arm suspension), and the steering arm on the spindle is connected to the outer tie rod, the steering arm is pulled closer to the centerline of the car by the tie rod as the suspension moves up and down. This makes the wheels toe out as the suspension moves up or down.

When you lower the car, the resting position of the tie rod is no longer close to horizontal, it's angled up. This causes the distance that the outer tie rod moves towards the centerline of the car as the suspension cycles to increase. This increased left-right motion increases the amount of bump steer you have. By flipping the tie rod to attach to the bottom of the steering arm, the tie rod's resting position is once again near horizontal and reduces the bump steer closer to normal. You get a similar problem with narrowed beams, the tie rods get shorter and the arc they move through increases and necessarily increases the distance the outer tie rod moves in and out increasing bump steer.


The pitman arm has those offset tie rod mounting holes to compensate for the steering angle differences between the left and right wheels caused by the different length tie rods.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option for the hole in the firewall:

You can fiberglass the existing hole closed, then put the new hole where you want it. You can do it in such a way that you wouldn't notice the repair job.

Ill post more details if this is an option that appeals to you. I did this on both my dash and firewall steering column holes because I used a 3" lift. The existing holes were too high. The hole in the dash was just fiberglassed closed, the hole on the firewall was fiberglassed and a different hole cut (lower) because of the 3" lift. One of the easier repairs I did on the body.
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Bluemanx
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:


Unless you already have a new steering gearbox, try just draining the oil and packing it with Moly CV type grease(like the new TRW boxes use). Remove the top by removing the bolts and turning the adjuster screw in.

THIS I'm going to do. Thanks.

BL3Manx wrote:

Another option for correcting steering column mis-alignment is to modify the steering column to use U-joints like on the Rabbit. You can add a second bearing at the bottom of the original tube to keep the upper shaft straight in the tube.

Now I'm leaning on doing doing both of these, as I see what is available out there. Can I install this 'bearing' to the bottom of the tube?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-498-585-A
And I think I can section out the main column and use this by drilling and installing grade 8 bolts thru the U-joint and column(I don't weld). This would let me use the original end to fit to the rag joint.
http://www.mooreparts.com/4030-AC425262/

BL3Manx wrote:

Your Manx is a great find, definitely a good plan to keep it original.

That's the plan. Wink
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Bluemanx
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iguana wrote:
andygere wrote:
I second the request for info on the clamshell bulkhead fitting. Photos and where to buy would be great!


Oops forgot to post pictures. Here is the half shell as I call it which uses a screw clamp to hold it all in place and then bolts through the fibreglass. Using these allows you to hold the column where it needs to be and stop it from turning.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


X2 on the thanks! If you sell those you can PM me, or where do I get one? Else I'll be making something for under the hood.
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhoefer wrote:
Iguana wrote:
A stock VW BJ front end has ZERO bump steer throughout full travel.


The VW does have bump steer.


Would you like to bet ?

I have had it modelled in CAD as part of the DOT Approvals for our Rack and Pinion Steering as the requirement was to match or exceed factory bump steer. I always thought it would have some but those Germans are smart dudes and got it spoto.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, ... I believe I'll go with double 7/8x7/8 smooth U-Joints for the steering shaft, sectioning the shaft, bolting in the U-joints and inserting another bearing in the tube. This should solve the alignment issue of the dash / bulkhead and keep the steering box at the proper angle, not to mention adding a measure of safety from what I've read here. Since this also involves the dash, I'm trying to address all the other stuff that goes with it, I've got some original switches and hope to use them. I want to keep this as "original" as possible, but I'm now thinking of putting in a '68 or later speedo, as the one I have either needs repair or replacing. I'd like to have a gas gauge (which I don't have) and I'm not crazy about using the mechanical one that is period correct for this '62 pan and cutting a square hole in my new dash. I'm now thinking I'll go with a speedo with gauge ('68+) and use the corresponding sending unit. Question Will this later sending unit bolt right in to a '62 gas tank?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bluemanx wrote:
So, ... I believe I'll go with double 7/8x7/8 smooth U-Joints for the steering shaft, sectioning the shaft, bolting in the U-joints and inserting another bearing in the tube. This should solve the alignment issue of the dash / bulkhead and keep the steering box at the proper angle, not to mention adding a measure of safety from what I've read here. Since this also involves the dash, I'm trying to address all the other stuff that goes with it, I've got some original switches and hope to use them. I want to keep this as "original" as possible, but I'm now thinking of putting in a '68 or later speedo, as the one I have either needs repair or replacing. I'd like to have a gas gauge (which I don't have) and I'm not crazy about using the mechanical one that is period correct for this '62 pan and cutting a square hole in my new dash. I'm now thinking I'll go with a speedo with gauge ('68+) and use the corresponding sending unit. Question Will this later sending unit bolt right in to a '62 gas tank?


Yes, it will bolt right in where the mechanical one went. Just test your new gas gauge vibrator unit with the new sender to make sure it works. Its not hard to do and is much easier to fix out of the car if its not working. Also, remember your ground wires or it won't work. Typically the ground goes on one of the mounting bolts, even though it doesn't look like there is an official place for on the tank sender.
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jhoefer
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iguana wrote:
jhoefer wrote:
Iguana wrote:
A stock VW BJ front end has ZERO bump steer throughout full travel.


The VW does have bump steer.


Would you like to bet ?

I have had it modelled in CAD as part of the DOT Approvals for our Rack and Pinion Steering as the requirement was to match or exceed factory bump steer. I always thought it would have some but those Germans are smart dudes and got it spoto.


I would be happy to see your evidence. Put in a measurement line (to at least two decimal places) in CAD between the center points of the outer tie rods, a measurement (in all 3 axis if it can't calculate the 3d length) of both tie rod lengths, and a measurement between both front edges and both back edges of the wheel in the top view. Add in as many other measurements and angles as you can. Post pictures of the measured 3-view drawings for the suspension at ride height, full bump, and full droop.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

Bluemanx wrote:
BL3Manx wrote:

Another option for correcting steering column mis-alignment is to modify the steering column to use U-joints like on the Rabbit. You can add a second bearing at the bottom of the original tube to keep the upper shaft straight in the tube.

Now I'm leaning on doing doing both of these, as I see what is available out there. Can I install this 'bearing' to the bottom of the tube?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-498-585-A


You can use that bearing on the bottom of the steering column, I did in my Mini-T. You may want to replace the spring with an appropriate size section of tube so you cannot pull the steering wheel toward you out of the column. I used a solid spacer so I can find out what size tube I used when I get home (it is pretty thin wall stuff.)

The tube to use if you want to replace the spring is schedule 10 pipe, 3/4 inch nominal diameter (O.D. just over 1 inch, I.D. just over 7/8 inch.)
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L8ndeb
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:35 am    Post subject: Re: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

I realise this is an old thread, but quick question for Iguana. Do you still sell the steering column clamps for the firewall? If so, please PM me as I would like to purchase a set.

TIA
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:25 am    Post subject: Re: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

L8ndeb wrote:
I realise this is an old thread, but quick question for Iguana. Do you still sell the steering column clamps for the firewall? If so, please PM me as I would like to purchase a set.

TIA


Meyers Manx sell them.

http://meyersmanx.com/buggy-parts/steering-column-support-bracket.html
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L8ndeb
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: Steering column alignment question. Reply with quote

Yes David they do, but they appear to be out of stock.

Thanks anyway.
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