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chrisfic Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 4
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:16 am Post subject: Programmer problems? |
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Hey Everybody,
I got my RG-1 kit installed in my '83.5 Westy and it runs great! I was wondering if anyone else was having problems with the SCT tool. I tried to update the firmware, but it wouldn't work. I can not pull datalogs from the tool to send to Bostig for review. I am planning on opening a ticket with SCT but wanted to hear if anyone else was having the same issue that I am.
Thanks,
Chris |
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boulderdrop Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2008 Posts: 481 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:19 am Post subject: |
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I believe the SCT is tied to the ECU serial number. Maybe you are using one that isn't linked up yet. I would ask Bostig asap. _________________ == My Rides ==
1984 Westy, Bostig, 3rd:1.14, Locker-LSD, Newly Painted
1980 24' J-Boat
1979 Sears Freespirit Moped
1996 Chev S10 4x4 ZR2
2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid (Wife's)
== How I Pay the Bills ==
Windows FTP Server at http://www.bpftpserver.com (PM for a FREE one) |
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LeftCoastKiteboarding Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2013 Posts: 123 Location: Left Coast
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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I also got excelent customer service from SCT directly when I called them.
FWIW |
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shizzon Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2006 Posts: 596 Location: Boulder, CO
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1948 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:46 am Post subject: |
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I got the van running yesterday.
A few notes:
1. I used a garden pesticide sprayer connected to the fill tower to gently pressurize the coolant system. The sprayer wand could be disconnected, revealing a male garden hose fitting, to which I added a brass female garden hose to small hose barb adapter. I then removed the thermostat housing bleeder line from the cooling tower, connected it to the sprayer, and made a short cap for the open cooling tower port. Everything needed for this could be bought at Home Depot for $20.
I did this to test for leaks and to force water into the system. It worked pretty well, but I was still about a half gallon short on water. How did I discover this? I let the van idle for about an hour, and I watched the coolant temperature sit nicely at 205 degrees for the first ten minutes... and then it slowly began to rise until topping out at 245 degrees. I shut the van off, let it cool, and filled the tower again. Ran the van again; shut it off, let it cool, filled it again. I could also hear air in the system. Once the system was filled properly, the van cooled consistently between 180 and 205.
2. I used my off-the-shelf air box modification, courtesy of Spectre Performance. The vanagon snorkel is used at the intake end, then the Spectre 8741 3' duct kit connects the snorkel to the Spectre 9833 3" air box. The Spectre 8791 90 degree coupler then connects the air box to the Ford Focus MAF meter as the whole assembly enters the engine compartment. The OBD system is reporting MAF flows between 3.5 and 4.5 g/s. I'm curious what other systems are reading. Can someone look up their flows and report back for comparison?
Overview of the setup. There's no 90 degree coupler from the air box to the MAF yet, so this is incomplete.
Without the 90 degree coupler, the whole setup is too long and puts the MAF too close to the exhaust heat shield.
This is the snorkel end. Very straightforward. The Spectre components slip right on--perfectly--and their rubber couplers are wonderful. I added my own hose clamps here.
Installed snorkel, looking down the air duct.
This is what you get at the bottom of the air duct. To install this I had to disconnect everything, slip the snorkel into the duct from the outside, let it drop down into the duct to the bottom, join the snorkel with the 3' air hose with a hose clamp, push it back up gently, and press the snorkel onto its barbs. The hose is a very tight fit.
The air box as seen through the removed taillight lens. It is possible to change this air filter without removing the taillight. There is still a lot of room for ambient air to flow down the duct, past the air box, and ventilate the engine compartment, which I think is important, especially since this is the hot side of the engine.
The 90 degree turn I have here is temporary--the Spectre 8791 will eventually be the permanent part. I will apply a radiant barrier to the MAF and the air hose opposite the exhaust heat shield. This perspective makes it look like the air hose is really close to the catalytic converter, but that's just a perspective illusion. If you look carefully here you can see I have a short rubber tarp bungee with S-hooks on both ends holding the air box in place. There are existing holes in the sheet metal to do this easily--and this keeps vibration down and keeps the air box where it's supposed to be.
This wasn't the cheap route to go--the total for parts was about $150--but it was an easy bolt-up based on widely available parts (Autozone, O'Reilly, Amazon, etc.). You still have to source the Ford Focus MAF from a junkyard or eBay... I happen to have two Focus air boxes lying around, so I had plenty of parts to play with.
I can't report on sound yet--I haven't been cleared to drive the van--but I can stand at the rear and hear the usual intake sound coming through the snorkel opening at the air duct.
Some accounting for condensation needs to be made with this setup--a small hole at the bottom of the 3' air hose to let water drain out.
For the short term, I'm pleased with this--but I will report back later with long term results.
More installation notes:
3. The crossed over hoses at the front radiator connection just didn't work with my spare tire--so I switched them back to stock configuration and made the crossover occur at the aft end of the long coolant pipes. I found that the Bostig recommended hoses could work this way--you just have to be careful about routing the hoses and cutting them properly. The plumbing needed for the front heater core return (the Gates tee) gives you some wiggle room to be creative with the hoses.
4. The Bostig recommended muffler is nice, but I also like the Magnaflow upgrade Jed Harrison uses, and I'm going to give that a shot as well. I want my AC system to have the best chance at success, so I want that clearance from the muffler. The reduced back pressure is also a nice benefit.
5. I'm using an Ultragauge OBD device, stuck to the top steering column cowling. It is a near perfect fit in this location and provides great information. I have the Bostig OBD extension running forward from the ECU under the rear seat. All those wires--MIL, OBD and oil--exit the rear through a 1" grommeted hole, hug the interior frame rail inside a 1" loom, and enter the front of the cab through the big rubber grommet where the front heater hoses penetrate the floor behind the gear shifter. I'm also using an OBD splitter, with the other OBD connection hosting a BlueTooth transceiver, so I can get data on my laptop wirelessly, or on my phone/tablet/whatever.
Still lots of work to do this week: GoWesty cruise control install, ARB awning install, RMW under-seat drawer install, and the big AC system refit--total hose replacement in the van, plus evaporator replacement, with new parallel flow condenser, and refit for RedTek refrigerant. There's also a new ham radio going into the van with switchable fore/aft operating positions, but that's a whole other story in itself.
The Texas VW Classic is next weekend in Fredericksburg, TX. I'm hoping to have most of the big projects complete and get out there for that meet up.
More updates later--stay in touch.
kourt |
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JudoJeff Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013 Posts: 1179 Location: Near Springfield, MA
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 5:53 am Post subject: |
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kourt, great work! I have a Libby Bong, so will use that for filling the cooling system. (That and squeezing the hoses seems to work well...)
How does the snorkel come off? I'd rather ask than break it trying!
I broke off the clutch slave line at the fitting, so now will have to cut it back and add a compression fitting. No big deal, just "one more task".
My A/C could not have been cleaned and reused. All the fittings are rusted solid. I've been cutting the hoses, and pulling them. The new hoses are smaller in diameter and should be easy to thread through the existing passages.
The only item I haven't picked up is the evaporator, which if I need a new one, you'll be the first to contact.
Thanks for the coolant tips. I had a bitch of a time pulling the plastic coolant lines. Putting the SS in today, wish me luck.
Are you putting in VHF/UHF radios or HF? _________________ ________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1948 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 11:40 am Post subject: |
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Howdy JudoJeff,
The snorkel comes out by gently pulling it free of the two metal tangs its rubber bushings slip over. It's a press fit situation. Take your time and pull gently towards the front of the van and all will be well.
The radio I've got in the van now is a Yaesu FT-857, which does everything. The HF side is fed through a FC40 transmatch to a 102" whip antenna on the RMW bumper. That setup is fairly resonant on 6M through 40M. The UHF/VHF side is fed to an old Larsen 2/70 antenna that has followed me around for 20+ years.
What's unique about this setup is I have two remote heads for the radio--one on the front dashboard and one at the rear seat. With the flip of a switch, I can move the control head/mic/audio from the front of the van to the back. It was expensive but super easy and neat. Since my brother and I swap operating duties all the time, this was a natural fit for us.
kourt |
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JudoJeff Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013 Posts: 1179 Location: Near Springfield, MA
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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kourt,
Radio setup sounds sweet! You wouldn't believe what I used to do to get a super high score in the VHF Sweepstakes.
Well, I've given up for today trying to run the SS pipes. Lowered the gas tank about 6 inches, still no joy. Will try again tomorrow. Time for alcohol....
I'll yank the snorkel this week, need a successful job first. _________________ ________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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JudoJeff Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013 Posts: 1179 Location: Near Springfield, MA
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:39 am Post subject: |
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Got the new stainless steel coolant pipes installed, and new heater lines! The heater hose is much heavier duty than what was there. For some unknown reason, VW ran 1/2 inch heater hose to the rear heater, which has the 5/8" fittings. I made an adapter from 5/8 to 1/2 after skinning my knuckles trying to get it on. (Heat gun didn't help with the 1/2"...)
Today's goals are replacing the fuel lines and running the #8 and #6 A/C hoses.
Should be easy after the cooling system. _________________ ________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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LeftCoastKiteboarding Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2013 Posts: 123 Location: Left Coast
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:40 am Post subject: |
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kourt,
How is the intake noise with that filter setup? |
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greenbrier62 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 223 Location: Victor, ID
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:42 am Post subject: exactly what I was thinking |
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That air filter setup was exactly what I was thinking...I hope the noise level is ok, please report back.
Thanks!! _________________ 1987 Vanagon camper
2005 VW Passat TDI
1962 Chevy Greenbrier |
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1948 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Greetings all,
The Spectre air filter setup with the Vanagon snorkel is very quiet.
Yeah, that's a pretty useless and subjective thing to say, I know. Let me give you my context for that:
Prior to my Bostig conversion I was running a 2.1 water boxer with the air filter housing open to the engine compartment--meaning I didn't have any sort of tube running to the passenger D pillar for air intake--so whatever noise that was making, that's what I was accustomed to. Here's a video of the old engine running:
https://vimeo.com/88489567
This is a Westy, so I always had the wool/felt engine deck carpet mat and the bed cushion on top of that, plus a new engine cover gasket. Still, things were noisy but tolerable. The highest pitch whine on this old engine correlates to the alternator.
My brother and I drove the Bostig converted van around last night and I can only say that, aside from the initial acceleration noises from a standstill, the whole setup is much quieter than before... and we didn't have the rear deck carpet or mattress in place yet. We are ham radio guys and want a quiet van overall for mobile operations. What I don't hear is any high or low pitched anomalies--no drones, and no whines. I listened at the D pillar at idle and hear nothing outstanding.
My hearing is super sensitive--so sensitive that I frequently hear conversations I'm not supposed to hear, and I have to cup my hand behind my ears and face the source of the sound to focus intended sounds in and discriminate from unintended sounds (which makes people think I'm hard of hearing, when exactly the opposite is true).
Would some sort of recording be useful?
As an aside, my data log for the initial drive was reviewed today. Jim reports that I am over fueling slightly, 9 to 10 percent. In his assessment, this is due to cam timing or bad compression. I will be doing a compression test tonight.
[EDIT: Bostig is asking me for a compression check to assess cam timing, not to assess "bad compression." The bad compression assumption was a misinterpretation of feedback on my part. -kourt]
The position of the MAF sensor is near the exhaust heat shield and also near the catalytic converter, and I think it is getting too much heat and reporting intake air temperatures that are too high. I've bought a Thermo-Tec pipe shield:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PIHZOM/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...which will be jacketed over the MAF housing to help this area reject heat a little more efficiently.
kourt
Last edited by kourt on Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:02 am; edited 1 time in total |
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1948 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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Just a quick update on the parts list for the Spectre intake, listed from the snorkel to the Bostig air intake hose:
Vanagon snorkel
Spectre 8741 3" black air hose kit with two rubber couplers
(Two 3" stainless hose clamps for each end)
Spectre 9833 inline air box (comes with cone filter)
Spectre 8791 3" 90 degree coupler
Spectre 9422 3" x 2" aluminum tube
Spectre 9541 3" to 3.5" coupler
Ford Focus MAF
Bostig air intake hose
This recipe will get you in business. Keep in mind that my setup is not thoroughly tested, and may not be ideal for some reason not yet discovered.
kourt |
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redeyeksc Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2012 Posts: 116 Location: guelph, ON
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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JudoJeff wrote: |
Got the new stainless steel coolant pipes installed, and new heater lines! The heater hose is much heavier duty than what was there. For some unknown reason, VW ran 1/2 inch heater hose to the rear heater, which has the 5/8" fittings. I made an adapter from 5/8 to 1/2 after skinning my knuckles trying to get it on. (Heat gun didn't help with the 1/2"...)
Today's goals are replacing the fuel lines and running the #8 and #6 A/C hoses.
Should be easy after the cooling system. |
My T's for the rear heater look incredibly bad, What size T would your recommend getting? would substituting with brass be okay? _________________ 84 Westfalia, now with Bostig Zetec 2.0L, Manual Transmission
Alex |
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JudoJeff Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013 Posts: 1179 Location: Near Springfield, MA
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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redeyeksc,
I'd go with brass first, then plastic. The stock T's are 5/8 to 1/2. If you go with all 5/8, you don't have to swear at the rear heater. I happened to have some brass T's from another project and used them. Some dish detergent on the hose makes squishing it onto the fitting easier.
Made progress today, my front to rear #6 & #8 A/C hoses are in, very easy to run with the GH134 hose. All new fuel lines, coolant SS pipes, (posted how on the Bostig site), and heater hoses. Even managed to get one CV joint all the way off for repacking. Snowed here last night, so I'll work on the other CV tomorrow. My ass gets cold sitting on the garage floor. _________________ ________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1948 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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JudoJeff--we are working in parallel. I am running the #6 and #8 hose for the AC today. First crimps with my Mastercool manual crimper are going great.
Got the GW cruise control installed as well. Very particular installation.
kourt |
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JudoJeff Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013 Posts: 1179 Location: Near Springfield, MA
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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kourt,
Got the snorkel off easily, thanks to you! Mounted up the condenser and radiator/fan, waiting for the A/C fittings before sticking it into the Westy.
My CV joints are off, and the new boots and bolts showed up just now. That's a yucky job, so looking for other tasks to do first.
Weather has been cold, and all of the snow didn't melt yet. But only spent a few hours on the ground, mostly have been working at a table, yeah! _________________ ________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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JudoJeff Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013 Posts: 1179 Location: Near Springfield, MA
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, progress! Engine and transmission are mated, and are now honeymooners!
Wonder if 3 bolts are strong enough to hold it all together, but Oh Well.
Excited that soon they'll be up in the Westy, then I can really go to town..... _________________ ________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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DeanZimmer Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Winnipeg Manitoba
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks very much for taking the time to document your Spectre air intake modifications.
At some time in the future I would appreciate learning more about your GoWesty cruise control experience, its installation and use. I am considering it. I gave up my cruise when I converted to the Zetec.
Dean |
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1948 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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Howdy,
I installed the GoWesty cruise on my Zetec yesterday. Honestly, the install has nothing to do with the Zetec--the whole install is done at the front end of the van.
I found a VW cruise control enabled turn signal stalk on eBay for starters...
The control module mounts far up under the dash just to the right of the ashtray. The throttle cable interface routes down through the main grommet to the throttle cable box under the gas pedal.
There is no margin for slack in the install--you need to pay careful attention to the instructions.
I happened to get lucky and got the throttle cable slack set properly on the first try. I went out and it worked like I expected to immediately. I know others have not had that kind of luck.
All in all, a good product. They are repackaging a Rostra system with some value added special items from GW and the whole system is a good setup in my view.
kourt |
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