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AN 8 fitting leak!
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon tape is for plumbing gas and water pipes on your house and should not be used anywhere on an engine. Use a paste sealer or locktite on engine fittings.

As mentioned AN fittings have a 37* seal. All brass hardware store plumbing fittings have a 45* seal.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok gonna take it apart and remove the tape. It's weird that the other line is dry as a bone. No leaks.
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look for a crack in the aluminum fitting. You might have tightened it too tight.

I'm a firm believer in using push-loc hose instead of stainless wrapped stuff.
It's easy to install and doesn't leak.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


JIC fittings and a swivel push-loc nipple for the hose. Cut the hose to length and push it on the nipple and you can easily remove it any time if you have a swivel fitting on each end.
All you have to do is snug them tight and they are leak free.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Are these proper taper? They came with the line from my engine builder.
Now some one mentioned sealant? What kind? Do these lines usually stay leak free? Is there a line that will last a long time, and not leak for sure. I'm starting to believe it's the 90 fitting.


JIC and AN fittings have the same taper and thread so what you have from your builder is correct. No sealant on the AN side, no teflon tape on NPT threads, buy some loctite 565/567.
Looks like your 90 fitting on the hose is leaking either incompatible face seal or damaged face.
I have the push lock JIC on my some of my hoses and long 8JIC hydraulic lines for others, no leaks.
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace all of those fittings with a manufacturer that is compatible with the hose manufacturer to avoid further headaches.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I took the brass fittings off and the Teflon tape. I tried one of the 2 fittings I took a pic of that I hadn't tried yet and still no dice. Still leaks. I'm thinking that 90 fitting has a bad taper cause the other hose seals fine. Might just have a hydraulic place in town make me new lines. What should I tell them for size and length? Fitting type and size? I have it mounted at the bumper bracket. I Just wanna be done with this headache and have something on there I won't have to worry about. I think I'll be sending this line back. Need it running right by next weekend, first show of the year up here in the nw.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where do I get those jic stuff? What type of line and fittings come in the gene berg kit?
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BDubVdub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly, it'll be cheaper for you to make a new line with all new fittings than it will be to go to a hose place and have them made.
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juki48
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

your 90° fitting on the hose probably cracked or is defective. JIC are standard hydraulic fittings. if you have a hydraulic supply place go there and either bring the lines you have or measure up what you want. you want -8 lines and fittings. if they have the high temp push loc stuff that will work, or have them crimp you some hoses. I stay away from the standard black rubber hydraulic lines because it is usually only rated for 212°F. I like to use Parker braided SS lines with crimped on ends.
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard hydraulic hose is going to be very stiff.

As I said, JIC fittings with the Push-loc hose and a swivel nipple on each end is something you can build yourself right at home. Get enough hose so you can cut to length and you are good to go.

Don't make a simple job more difficult than you have to. That stainless crap is only good for poking holes in your fingers.
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vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
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thekera
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where usually sells the JIC and push loc with nipples? Auto part store. Hydraulic store?
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got mine from a construction supply store.
They had every fitting know. To man there and reasonably priced too.
Look for a place that advertises "Parker Fittings" and they will have most stuff.
Hydraulic shops should have it too.
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vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take both your oil hoses to the hydraulic shop and ask them a price for 2 new hoses made from Teflon S/S steel hose. If the price is too high then order the stuff from Jeg's and make your own.

http://www.jegs.com/c/Fittings-Hose/181705/10002/-1
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thekera
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'll bring the fittings tomorrow to a hydraulic place and have them make me a 2 foot line and a 21 inch line. I believe it's 3/8th to 8AN. Thanks for all the advise and replys. Let you know what I get and how it works out.
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If all else fails, call me at work, I can hook you up.

Pacific Rubber in Seattle can build them for you as well. Ask for Michael.



Generally, if a JIC/AN hose fitting is leaking, especially an aluminum one, it has probably been over tightened, OR one of the sealing faces have been damaged. It's a metal to metal seat and sealing surface. No sealant required. Do not over torque them either. You'll distort the crap out of them. Do like vwracerdave suggested and get the SS braided teflon hoses with the proper fittings. If you take care of it, you're probably not going to have to replace it for a LOOOONG time.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BDubVdub wrote:
That fitting you just posted isn't aluminum. It's steel. I've never had an AN fitting or line leak


I thought it could be black anodizing, but maybe it isn't, does look sketchy tho.
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thekera wrote:
Now here is what I started with originally before trying the brass.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Are these proper taper? They came with the line from my engine builder.
Now some one mentioned sealant? What kind? Do these lines usually stay leak free? Is there a line that will last a long time, and not leak for sure. I'm starting to believe it's the 90 fitting.


These are great. If it's brass, it'll have a 45 deg. flare. If it's steel, it'll have a 37.5 deg. flare. Most brass hose fittings, will be machined for a dual seat. This means they can seal properly on either a brass or steel flared adapter. The AN stuff is not set up that way from what I've seen. Do you see the ring around the flare in the picture? it's about 1/2 way from the top and bottom of the flare surface. That's where your seal is happening. Use a ball point pen, and run it over the flare surface. If you can feel any ridges, it's probably a leaker.
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thekera
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the recommended torque on these? When I put them on I didn't tighten them super tight as I didn't want to distort the mating surface. None of the other 3 joints leaked just the one so I gave it another turn and the leak became even worse. Now I tried both of those steel fittings in the picture and had the same leaky result which makes me believe it's that 90 AN fitting. Is it common to get a bad or leaky one?
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not common, but anything can get damaged or boogered up.
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aluminum is softer obviously than steel.....I'd say it's the alum. fitting. If the steel is distorted, the face will look concave.
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