No spark....

[green73type3]

Sorry had some late nights at work this week haven't had time to get out into the shop untill this morning. No spark yet. Check points condenser and inside of distributor. All seem good. Ground wire in distributor is still attached at both ends. I regapped the points and still nothing. I am going to try another set of points I found ( Bosch) that I forgot I had and see what the yields me. I found I can order a rebuilt distributor thre rock auto that wil come with new points, condenser, and fuel injected trigger points if that's what I need to do.

[green73type3]

OK....I now have spark! but no start...yet. It back fires a bit out of the intake and i hear some kind of internal thump. I have not investigated the fuel system at the engine except for the lines. tried a few shots of starter fluid and got nothing but some back firing out of the intake and every once in a while it will shoot exhaust out of the muffler. quick...maybe stupid question. The plugs I removed from the car did not have the top nut on them...when installing the new plugs and wires the new plugs fir in the wires better with the nut. Would that effect anything?

[Bobnotch]

[green73type3]

Could it be that my timing is off?

[green73type3]

I've read some online articles about timing and also my shop manual, but cant seem to get a straight answer on it in reference to my type three. on the dizzy where is the small notch suppose to point? and where does the longer end of my rotor button point? I cant find any info on the notch on my dizzy, mine currently point towards cylinder 4. I have read that my rotor button needs to point to cylinder 1 and also that I need to point to cylinder 1 plug wire on the cap, cylinder 3 and cylinder 3 plug wire on the cap. I understand timing with the light while the engine is running as my shop manual explains this well. Just can find any info with what to do while the engine is not running. Also worth noting I guess. My engine smells like exhaust while currently turning over and my intake gets warm. It also lightly back-fires out of the intake.

[Mike Fisher]

Hook up a gauge at the Test Port between the 2 injectors. You should have a Test Port on the left or right side. Ascertain that you have about 30 lbs fuel pressure while turning it over & running. The fuel pressure adjustment screw assembly can also be attached on the left or right I've found.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[green73type3]

I read this last night. I am gonna try an locate the proper tool for this sometime this week.

[Mike Fisher]

I use a 0-100 lb water pressure gauge from Home Depot to test mine. They sell a plastic threaded hose bard to attach 5/16" hose onto. Clamp everything tight or it will leak!
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[green73type3]

I work at lowes, would be easier to probably make one.

[green73type3]

My issue with timing that's got me confused. When I rotate my my pulley( clockwise) to the first notch on the pulley this is where my rotor button and notch on my dizzy body fall pointing at the No. 4 cylinder wire in the cap about 90 degrees off from where I read it should be.

[Bobnotch]

[green73type3]

Yup! I figured it out before I read your post! Apparently whoever parked it ten years ago was going off a T-1 because I installed my new parts the way I took off the old parts. She fired right up first flick of the key! Runs like a top and idles great. Gonna address the no brakes and take her for her first spin down the road in 10 years!