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austinchap
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2006
Posts: 37
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 Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:30 pm Post subject: Access panels |
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I know you guys talk about boat access holes and gab fab access panels but I came across these today.
Looks like it would be an affordable alternative.
What do you guys think. He makes some of all different shapes and sizes.
http://www.mrrace.com/mykitairplane/ThatcherCX4RudderAccess/index.htm
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rockurob
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Joined: August 23, 2009
Posts: 358
Location: Okla City, Oklahoma
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dirtkeeper
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2008
Posts: 3200
Location: Left of everywhere
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:15 am Post subject: |
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| I made custom doors for mine that are hinged and use one wing nut to hold closed. For all the times i wanted to get in there to do a quick jet clean out or double check settings or whatever. I would never have done it it if i had to pull of multiple screws or nuts. I could open mine up, pull and clean the jets on both sides and close it back up and be back on the road before you even got half of the 10 plus nuts off of one of those. thats my perspective. |
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75smith
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Joined: July 09, 2011
Posts: 2275
Location: NH
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:22 am Post subject: |
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| dirtkeeper wrote: |
| I made custom doors for mine that are hinged and use one wing nut to hold closed. For all the times i wanted to get in there to do a quick jet clean out or double check settings or whatever. I would never have done it it if i had to pull of multiple screws or nuts. I could open mine up, pull and clean the jets on both sides and close it back up and be back on the road before you even got half of the 10 plus nuts off of one of those. thats my perspective. |
this is why I am never gonna buy g-fabs or these doors, your creating too much work, not bad ideas, just need some work
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Dale M.
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Joined: April 12, 2006
Posts: 20380
Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:59 am Post subject: |
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This ain't aircraft, you don't have to use all the screws or Duze fasteners...
Dale
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JasonBaker
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Joined: February 08, 2010
Posts: 1642
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:03 am Post subject: |
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Those do look nice.
I was gonna go the same route as Dirtkeeper, but I noticed hinged doors didn't seem to seal as well.
The one's I bought are plastic with an "O" ring and with a few spins they come out. |
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austinchap
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2006
Posts: 37
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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They have other kinds. I like the shape of these as they will flow nice.
I don't really use hand tools so to remove the 16 small fasteners shouldn't take more than a couple mins. The have nice round ones and hinged ones as well.
I put a order in for the one posted. I'll post pics of the install.
I'm curious about some of y'all's installs and DIYs if you have pics 👍 |
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BDubVdub
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Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 612
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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| You gonna buck all 64 of those rivets he includes or cheap out and use pop rivets? |
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austinchap
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2006
Posts: 37
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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| It says you can use your normal 1/8th pop rivet. If I can find someone local with pneumatic rivet gun I'll pound them suckers in. I already hate cutting holes in my oval window so I'm gonna make it as clean as possible. |
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BDubVdub
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Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 612
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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| austinchap wrote: |
| It says you can use your normal 1/8th pop rivet. If I can find someone local with pneumatic rivet gun I'll pound them suckers in. I already hate cutting holes in my oval window so I'm gonna make it as clean as possible. |
You should try and buck those in. It'll be a ton of work but will look so good. I'd imagine you'd need a longer solid rivet for where you're using them. Flush rivets look soooooo good. If you were close I'd say come by and borrow my rivet gun and bucking bars. |
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austinchap
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Joined: July 05, 2006
Posts: 37
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:08 am Post subject: |
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| Yea I'm located up in connecticut. I'll have to ask around. I'm sure someone has one. |
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BDubVdub
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Joined: October 11, 2006
Posts: 612
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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| austinchap wrote: |
| Yea I'm located up in connecticut. I'll have to ask around. I'm sure someone has one. |
You're just a stones throw away. Lol. Just kidding. I hope you can find someone. It'll look really slick that way. |
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bluebus86
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Joined: September 02, 2010
Posts: 11075
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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a friend and I put Dual Dells in a 73 convertible. we carefully drilled I think it was three holes on each side to allow carb adjustment, and spark plug removal. the larges round hole was just big enough to s\clear a spark plug socket, maybe an inch or inch and 1/4 or so. we used a chassis punch to make neat round holes, then we bought some radio chassis metal plugs to cover them. thus we did not need to cut a hug panel, and the holes are supper easy to access no tiny screw to mess with, just pop out the metal plug with a screw driver and pop it back in with a click when done.
I think ours is a much cleaner install than the removable panel, but it takes lots of planning, mocking up the carbs, and plug location, and drilling small pilot holes (1/8 inch) and pushing thick wire thru in straight lines to simulate a straight shot at the adjuster or plug, check every thing three times, and cut once.
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HBRag
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Joined: April 29, 2005
Posts: 735
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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| If you can get your hands on a shallow yoke rivet squeezer, it would be a lot easier than bucking those. All you have to do is set the squeezer for the right lengthang go. Every rivet will be the same. For the best results us the right # drill for the rivet. |
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youngnstudly
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Joined: October 21, 2005
Posts: 833
Location: Whine Country (SF Bay area)
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| Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:13 am Post subject: |
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| bluebus86 wrote: |
a friend and I put Dual Dells in a 73 convertible. we carefully drilled I think it was three holes on each side to allow carb adjustment, and spark plug removal. the larges round hole was just big enough to s\clear a spark plug socket, maybe an inch or inch and 1/4 or so. we used a chassis punch to make neat round holes, then we bought some radio chassis metal plugs to cover them. thus we did not need to cut a hug panel, and the holes are supper easy to access no tiny screw to mess with, just pop out the metal plug with a screw driver and pop it back in with a click when done.
I think ours is a much cleaner install than the removable panel, but it takes lots of planning, mocking up the carbs, and plug location, and drilling small pilot holes (1/8 inch) and pushing thick wire thru in straight lines to simulate a straight shot at the adjuster or plug, check every thing three times, and cut once. |
There's a reason guys call these access windows "Weber windows." Back when I ran my DRLA's, I did the same thing as you using a similar type of plug to cover each hole...And then I got IDF's installed on tall straight manifolds and everything changed. 
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dirtkeeper
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Joined: February 19, 2008
Posts: 3200
Location: Left of everywhere
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| Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:26 am Post subject: |
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These don't look as high tech but really work well. Actually think it looks more stock since the doors don't stand out unless your really lookin. I have forgotten to close the doors and they will catch on my wheel but bend right back into place. Though the seal is pretty good I have thrown a piece of foam in between the door to really seal it up tight. Anyway. Takes about 15 seconds to take off the wingnut and get to where I want to
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austinchap
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Joined: July 05, 2006
Posts: 37
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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| I was actually thinking of using the piece I cut out as the door so it just bolts right back in the same spot and u wouldn't be able to tell at all. |
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JasonBaker
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Joined: February 08, 2010
Posts: 1642
Location: Cleveland, TN
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| That wont seal and keep dirt out |
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youngnstudly
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Joined: October 21, 2005
Posts: 833
Location: Whine Country (SF Bay area)
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| Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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It's important to remember that removing any material from that section of the car is going to remove structural integrity in the event of an accident. It is my belief that a frame always needs to be added when access windows are used, and when cutting the hole (as small as possible), corners should always be rounded and flanged as opposed to being square cut and raw (which is far less tear resistant, especially in sheet metal).
Epoxy or welding is best, but I think a professionally installed access door (frame) that uses quality rivets is a decent choice if you don't want something that will require heat or major grinding to remove later on. I learned the hard way years back that more than a few fasteners securing the access door into place makes removal a PITA! As for the modification being noticeable, if you do a clean install and undercoat things afterwards, the access doors aren't even noticeable. Just my 2 cents.
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tattooed_pariah
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Joined: April 24, 2006
Posts: 2047
Location: El Cajon, CA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 12:27 am Post subject: |
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| youngnstudly wrote: |
It's important to remember that removing any material from that section of the car is going to remove structural integrity in the event of an accident. It is my belief that a frame always needs to be added when access windows are used, and when cutting the hole (as small as possible), corners should always be rounded and flanged as opposed to being square cut and raw (which is far less tear resistant, especially in sheet metal).
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let's be honest with ourselves here.. our cars body is primarily constructed of what, 20 gauge sheet metal? or 18, i dunno, something very thin..
If you get into an accident that causes more damage because you removed a small window and didn't properly brace it, your car is screwed anyway. Removing a section to allow access to the side of the engine compartment is not going to make a VW Beetle any less safe..
You can stop reading now if you don't want my anecdote about the safety of these cars..
The last speeding ticket I got before I joined the Navy, I think I was 21 years old and just blasting down the freeway late at night after work.. The officer looked in my window while writing me up and asked if I was supposed to have shoulder belts (I only run lap belts..), I told him, "Sir, shoulder belts were a factory option for this year and my front end and all four fenders are fiberglass, the body is thin sheet metal, and there is a 9 gallon gas tank sitting about 2 feet in front of me. If I get into an accident where a shoulder belt is going to be the difference between bodily injury or safety, more than likely my car is crumpled and I'm trapped in the wreckage anyway."
His response was along the lines of, "yeah, I guess you're right, but you were still doing 87 in a 65, here's your ticket."
unless you install a full cage and harnesses, I don't think any of us are driving our cars for their safety features.. 
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