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Hot-Spark - [email protected]
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Gadgetman728
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 10:33 am    Post subject: Hot-Spark - [email protected] Reply with quote

After cancelling my order to air cooled dot net, due to attitude at that end, I searched around and found a used ACN SVDA cheap, it was used, but didn't look that bad. I've had it in my buggy for about a week and it's been crappy weather here, so I only took a few short rides to check it out.

Since I saved so much money on the used one, and I had originally budgeted enough cash to buy the overpriced version from ACN, I went ahead and ordered a new one from HOTSPARK.com. It was $149.00, came with 2 o-rings at no additional charge, minus the JOHN ATTITUDE. (hooray).

My NEW SVDA arrived the other day and I installed it this morning. It is a perfect fit, and works great right from the get go!!

It seems the curve is set better than the used ACN. Because I don't know what work was done to the ACN SVDA, or it's history I can't tell you much more about it. I can tell you the new one is the one I'll run, and keep the ACN SVDA for my junker motor.

I am very satisfied with the service and prompt delivery, not to mention the much better price. These folks were a pleasure to do business with and I highly recommend them for your next SVDA.

Hotspark sets their SVDA's for general use and it seems fine to me. My buddy with all the electronic gear is going to check it out this afternoon and make sure I've got it set right.

Unless you just have too much money, I'd refrain from believing some of the more biased posters here, they scratch each others backs, even if they're wrong at your expense. $149 vs. $269 it wasn't a hard decision to make after the fiasco with John and his o-rings!!


Last edited by Gadgetman728 on Thu Apr 28, 2011 10:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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smitty24
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trust me, I bought one of the Hot Spark SVDAs with electronic points a couple years ago. Even worked properly with my H30 Solex that everyone else said "wouldnt produce enough vac signal." Worked perfect! Has been reliable, never given me any issue except I had to sand bottom of the rotor a slight bit. Vacuum works great. actually improved my mileage on the 1640 about 2-5 miles per gallon depending on where and how I drove. A bit O' advice: they use cheap vac cans. I ruptured mine a couple months back. I suggest you purchase a replacement to have in the toolbox from either CB or Aircooled-- you dont want the crap one that CIP sells! Good new ones are hard to find and any old can wont work right- been there, tried it. Overall, a good investment and sure beats the 009.
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smitty24
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if I am remembering right, Hotspark also sells a cheaper knock off of the Bosch unit-- so don't assume it is OG Bosch equivalent. John actually sells the BOSCH unit and OE Bosch parts to replace the can and other parts. Hotspark's customer service is a little on the poor side and doesnt sell most replacement parts that go with THEIR distributors; like vac cans! Personally, I have not tried John's unit but would have to say in my honest opinion it is probably better quality than Hotsparks. Thank goodness neither one is an Empi!!
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've tested 3 Hot Spark vacuum/mechanical distributors and all 3 had different curves.

Maybe you got lucky.... so far.

Their 009 clone is just as bad.
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nybug
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use to believe in the reliability of Hot Spark electronic ignition, but not any more. I don't put a lot of mileage on my 1970 Beetle, but I do use my car often. Well yesterday Hot Spark failed me. Left me stranded on the highway with no spark. The unit failed and cost me big time with a highway tow bill. Stay away from this product. This product gives you no warning when it fails. It just leaves you stuck. This Hot Spark system should last more that two years. The Germans know what they are doing. I'm back using points. Gimmicky electronic ignitions might seem like a improvement, but they are just garbage.
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jvulich
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ordered a conversion kit and a new coil. No complaints on the initial quality and everything works good. In my 14 years of working with vw parts these conversion kits regardless of brand give no warning when they go.
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nybug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Hot Spark Electronic Ignition System that I installed in my Beetle should have lasted more than two years. I only put about five thousand miles a year on my car and it's always garaged when not in use.
This product is garbage. If you want to tout this product then carry a spare distributor, when you car takes a crap.
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Hot-Spark
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:11 pm    Post subject: SVDA 034 Distributor Reply with quote

Virtually all the problems our customers have experienced with the SVDA or the 3BOS4U1 ignition kit were due to one of the following problems:

www.Hot-Spark.com/troubleshooting.pdf


We occasionally get ignition kits returned to us that have failed. In the great majority of cases, it is the result of misuse, miswiring or problems with the vehicle's electrical system (too little or too much voltage, measured at the coil's + terminal) and not the fault of the ignition kit. In order of occurrence, here's what we find in cases of failure:

1. Key is left on for more than a minute or so, without the engine running. If the engine happened to stop in a position similar, in effect, to points closed, the ignition module will continue to try to charge the coil without the coil discharging, resulting in excessive heat, which can fry the ignition module and/or coil. If the engine happened to stop in a position similar to points open, the ignition module/coil circuit would be open, no current would flow, and there would be no damage to the electronics.

2. A low-resistance aftermarket coil is used that does not have the minimum primary resistance required by the ignition module as stated in the instructions (1.5 ohms for a 6- and 8-cyl, 3.0 ohms for 4-cyl assuming a 12-Volt system). The coil primary resistance regulates the current in the ignition module/coil circuit. Too little coil primary resistance resistance results in too high a current in the circuit that can overheat the electronics. The failure may not happen immediately but the excess heat will shorten the life of the electronics. How long the electronics will last will depend on how much heat is generated. It could be a matter of a couple of hours to a few hundred hours, depending on temperature.

3. Polarity reversed when wiring. This will fry the ignition module's electronics quickly.

It is not uncommon for an older car to have its electrical system modified at some time in its history, not always for the better. It is important to make sure the circuit to the ignition module is as it should be.

Finally, it is possible for an ignition module to fail on its own, but this is the case in only a very small percent of the ignition kits that are returned. Ignition kits that are returned usually test to be working perfectly, indicating a problem with the vehicle in which they were installed. Of the ignition modules that have failed, we can usually trace the reason to one of the three causes listed above.
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nybug
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Spark,
Your scenarios do not apply to my car. The electronic ignition system failed and left me stranded on the highway. Hot Spark Electronic Ignition product is garbage. I think that members of this website need honest reviews and no BS.
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Hot-Spark
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your failure is probably due to one of the above-listed reasons. It's not impossible, but highly unlikely, that it was the fault of the ignition unit itself.

The most common causes of ignition failure are:

A. Using a coil with insufficient (less than 3.0 Ohms) primary resistance.

B. Leaving the ignition switch in the ON position, without the engine running, for more than a minute or so.

C. Reversing the polarity of the ignition + and - leads.


Roy
www.Hot-Spark.com/Troubleshooting.pdf
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roy,

Can you explain how your SVDA Electronic Distributor can work on everything from a 25hp Beetle engine to a 83 Vanagon?

Quote:
Type I - Beetle, Bug 1946-1979
Karmann Ghia, 1956-1974
Thing, Type 181, 1973-1975
Type II: 1950-1979 Bus, Transporter, Station Wagon, Kombi, Westfalia Camper (not '79 California model)
Type III - 1962-1973
Type IV (412) 1974
Vanagon 1980-83, 2.0 liter (except California model)
Most four-cylinder, air-cooled Porsche with points distributors (not for early 1970s D-Jetronic fuel injection)


Since its a copy of the 034 which was designed for a 1600 with a 34PICT-3 carb, how can it work on a 25hp engine? You even say it will work on "most 4 cylinder Porsche", but it will not work on the 356 engine produced from 1948 to 1969.
Quote:
The SVDA 034 distributor is a quality reproduction of the original vacuum-advance Bosch 0 231 170 034 / VW 043-905-205, federal model distributor that came stock from the factory on the 1974 VW Beetle with 1600 engine and manual transmission. Perfect for use with the 34PICT carburetor. This distributor requires a vacuum source from the carburetor


Your ads imply it's a "one size fits all", when that's just not possible.

I'd be interested in hearing how this has been accomplished.

BTW... i have had half dozen of your distributors pass through my hands and all had mechanical issues unrelated to the electronic part.
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nybug
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The most common causes of ignition failure are:

A. Using a coil with insufficient (less than 3.0 Ohms) primary resistance.

B. Leaving the ignition switch in the ON position, without the engine running, for more than a minute or so.

C. Reversing the polarity of the ignition + and - leads.


Roy
www.Hot-Spark.com/Troubleshooting.pdf


If you need a answer to your scenarios A,B and C it is No, No and No.

I only put 5,000 miles a year on my Beetle. When the weather is bad it stays in my (dry) garage.
Like I said before, I was driving on the highway and the engine just shut off. So, the module failed big time. You are really making this unnecessarily complicated.
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'69Custom
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and then there was silence. Not very encouraging when investigating a company and their products.
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AAVeeDub
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a bare-bones stock 74 bay (my daily), minus the dual baby webers... the Hot Spark has worked like a champ since day 1, and the timing is correct, wires are correct (i replaced my entire harness), I have the right polarity as well as properly rated coil... I feel like there are 100 things to rule out before ruling out the distributor, so I feel like nybug may need to check out everything... and if he has, shame on me for defending a good company... The customer service I have had has been awesome, and I feel like everybody puts Hot spark under attack because it's not an ACN distributor... Nobody gives walgreens crap because Equate isn't tylenol brand, even tho it does the same thing... Wink

Bottom line, I would recommend this, because it kicked my old dizzy w/ points' ASS!!!! After replacing it, the engine ran better from the get-go. LOOOVE IIIITTT!!! Cool

again, shame on me for giving a positive, no BS Review. Laughing
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AAVeeDub
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

November 6, 2013, i gave a good review.

Today, my hot spark failed me for the second time.

The first time: The polarity was reversed. Shame on me. I used points to get me by and ordered a new one... Shame on me.

Driving up 7th street, and, as 69custom says.. there was silence. My ignition shut off, killing the engine. After testing my starter switch and all possible options, and checking to make sure EVERYTHING hot spark says is the problem, wasnt.. It was the ignition unit.

and Mind you, if you let them know that you never did anyhting wrong, the "warranty" is an email response telling you to buy a new one.

It works great on a 1700 T4, dual carbs.. till it takes a crap on you and forces you to coast hastily into the dirt on the side of the road.

Thanks hot spark! At least the Dizzies look pretty tho?
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nybug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My unit failed also (no warning). Leaving me with a hefty towing bill to pay.
Crap product.
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AAVeeDub
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lucky for me I was 4.9 miles away with 5 miles of free towing through AAA. 😜
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nybug
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You were lucky. I wasn't. Sad
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AAVeeDub wrote:
Lucky for me I was 4.9 miles away with 5 miles of free towing through AAA. 😜

You need AAA Plus. 100 miles tows.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Hot-Spark - [email protected] Reply with quote

I had a problem with hot spark I purchased a svda034 dist. on 11/2/15 for a project that I completed at the end of the summer. In less than 100 miles the vacuum advance has failed. Is there anything that you could do for me?
They simply said " a new vacuum can is $ 35.00"
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