bad rear trans mount?

[60ragtop]

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Engine-Compartment-Seal-Rear-1967-79-T1-p/111-813-705d-111-705d.htm
the correct seal for a 67-74 bug according to most supliers
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

IMO.. the dual flap seal (pre 67) does a better job..
I installed a new 67 "J" seal on my 67.. it never sealed properly. I changed it over to a dual flap and it worked much better.
Just my .02..
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[60ragtop]

[pb_foots]

well, I'll go see the guys at WW today, maybe they'll let me walk one out to the parking lot and see if it'll work better.

Sorry yes, it's a 67

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

[bluebus86]

The frame horn bending issue is not the result of metal fatigue. fatigue would cause a fracture to form, resulting ultimately in the frame horn breaking. I am sure the cyclic loading on the frame horn is well below the fatigue limit for the steel horns. a bent horn is more likely the result of being over loaded, not a fatigue issue.

In fatigue failures there is no macro-deformation before failure. the loads that cause failure are well below that which would cause lots of deformation (Plastic deformation ,yield limit). In fatigue, at stress level that would not permanently deform the part (horn) cause microscopic fractures that eventually grow with more cycles into large cracks, followed by apparent sudden failure as the crack grows to the point of failure, then the part breaks.

a bent frame horn is likely not the result of fatigue, rather it was loaded past its plastic deformation limit and simply bent.

If the part had indeed fatigued, there would be cracks that formed and the part would be greatly weakened.

the fact that these horns in many cases can be re-bent back to correct shape and be good as new again strongly suggests that this is not a fatigue issue.

if the motor and tranny mounts are in good shape, and if the frame horns are not bent, it could well be that the engine cooling metal is bent a bit. the engine cooling tin is easily bent out of shape, try to bend the offending cooling metal piece(s) to see if you can better line them up with the rubber sealing piece.
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Well judging by that ^ explaination I may loosely mislabled the term "metal fatigue"
I meant it as "tired metal"
I have witnessed simple "sag" of the frame horns with ZERO damage to a vehicle.
With only my non mechanical engineering degree, actual life experience common sense, simply chaulked the issue up to the horns having the Earths Gravity pulling the 200lbs of engine down for well over 50 years in addition to the daily cycling and flexing downward.


Maybe "over flexed frame horns" suits the condition description better.

(" fatigue is the weakening of a material caused by repeatedly applied loads")
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[pb_foots]

Just a quick update. I stopped by WW yesterday and picked up this seal

I can see where the vertical drop from the channel to the second lip is about the same as the space in my engine compartment between the breast plate and the channel. It may just be that the seal that's listed as correct for my car, may in fact be the correct seal for my car.

Now I'm trying to decide whether to try this with the engine in or bite the bullet and pull the engine. Man, I hate pulling the motor.

[60ragtop]

JMHO, life is hard enough with out looking for trouble, pull the engine
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986